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Project Rehab

20K views 183 replies 30 participants last post by  sleepsontoilet 
#1 · (Edited)
Project Rehab - CJ2 Buggy Rework

I am bored today so I thought I would start a little project thread on my CJ2 Buggy. When I get a new toy I can never leave well enough alone, so this is showing a few of the things I have done and some things yet to come. I call it rehab because I really need some kind of rehab for always wanting to fix what is not broke....its a sickness.

First thing I did when I got it was downsize from 42" TSL's to 39.5 Iroks thinking I would make the 1/2 ton axles live....after all it weighs less than 3000lbs loaded.

I bought superjoints and thought I would drive smart and everything would be peachy...not so much.

It started with this:


So I started researching for a hybred build with 50 gears and 60 outers and shafts. I ended up picking up this 60 complete for $150 and it got me to thinking. Why not just build a 60? Budget was a huge concern, but getting it so cheap and piecing together with some used stuff made it where I could swing it.


More a little later....``
 
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#2 ·
Because I was bored and had some time a month or so ago I did some tube work to add a little protection to the fiberglass shell. I like clean rigs so I want to keep it nice if possible. I added tube fenders front and rear which was a little more challenging with the fiberglass because everything has to tie back to the chassis. Material is 1" schedule 40 with 1.375 od. On the rear I hole sawed a couple spots in the bottom lip of the tub for outriggers to the inner tube chassis.



The front of the chassis is just 2x4x1/8 wall which is probably strong enough, but I wanted to add some rigidity as well as add protection for the hood and in the event of a flop or roll. So, tube that connects to the existing shock hoop and runs back to the heavy part of the chassis where the links attach. Then the outer tube runs from the front grille hoop and ties in slightly lower and rearward of the inside hoop. Both are tied together with two braces. In the future I may run an extension from the inside fender tube through the firewall into the main hoop.


 
#3 ·
Under 3g's! Dayum. Was that on a certified scale? Love to see that slip. Are you going to redrill the front hubs to match the rear? Nice ride btw.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I have not had it on a scale. I am going by what the guy who built it told me. But, it is built light; L67, 700R4, Atlas, 9", D44(okay, this swap may put me over :D ), fiberglass tub and fenders, Aluminum plate for skid....and it was not built with 800 pieces of tube that it did not need. I'll get it one a scale one day when I get it going just for giggles. The whole thing is pretty small. Its kindof like standing next to a gocart.

I will turn down the fronts and redrill them using the brake rotor as a guide. I will turn the hubs for a tight fit and then clamp it all in place on a good drill press. It's a little ghetto(seeing a theme here), but I can make it will work. If I can get access to an indexing wheel I will do that, but I dont see it happening.

And, thanks.
 
#4 · (Edited)
My plan on the 60 was to do it for 12-1300 and recover a good bit of that with selling my built 44. It is a tiny budget, but I only started with $150 in it so it is doable. I am starting with an 04 super duty diff. It will be welded of course and I am planning on keeping factory inner shafts for now. I will run 4340 30 spline outers with spicer drive slugs. I will narrow it myself and turn down the unit bearings for 6x5.5 chevy pattern. I am planning on using my existing chevy brake setup mounted off of the Ford tabs. With the 99-04 knuckles it looks like it should be easy...famous last words, right? I will also do a shave and beef up the existing diff cover for protection. The bearings are in perfect condition so I plan on reusing what I can. Ujoints look good too so if they check out I will keep them too. I will also be doing my own gear setup...I think. So far parts list is:

Diff - $150
Gears - $150
Slugs - $50
Superior Outers - $300
Tabs and such - $100
Misc. - $200

So, I am at $950 with $200 more to spend on a gear install kit parts I need. I also have to get ball joints for one side and a unit bearing. I am hoping to find a good used factory bearing for cheap. But, I can get a new one for $125 with warranty from orielly.

I had originally planned on reusing the existing springs and shocks because they work well and it is very stable. Plus, it cost less. However, the 60 is a couple of inches wider on each side from the inner C out so that is not gonna work. I could run a wider front axle, but I kindof like being narrow and the fact that it loads on any trailer without issue. So, I am keeping my 64" WMS which means I have to cut down the 60 and go with air shocks or coilovers. I'd love coilovers, but it blows the budget. So, I picked up a used set of FOX 14" 2.0's for $250.



I cut the brackets on the 60 down and stuck it in the chop saw. In about 5 minutes it was narrower. I used a sawzall to cut to areas out of the tube that was left in the C to release the tension from the press fit and then pounded it out with a sledge.


Do all of you use a cutoff saw with shorts?
 
#6 · (Edited)
This rig was originally built and run by Tony at TK-1 Racing for Calrocs. It was setup with 16" coilovers, but when sold it was partially stripped. The next owner set it up on coils and bilstiens so there are two sets of shock hoops. The originals are pointed WAY back with the current axle location so I just cut them off and used part of them to build new hoops off of the second set of hoops....its kindof ghetto, but I think once I get it done and get more of the coil setup cut off it will be fine. Here is the start:



BTW, I had to go behind the alternator is the reason for the semi-funky crossbar location. The alternator actually rubs the hood slightly.
 
#9 ·
Thanks. I have new shafts for the 44, so once the air shocks are on I will wheel it like that if it does not sell.
 
#10 ·
Thanks. Although nothing on it was ever made by jeep...I guess it's still sortof a jeep.
 
#14 ·
Its a peppy little sucker. I have seen them complete for really cheap.

its just a Jeep tub ... and a aftermarket one at that .. SUPER SICK ... keep the pics coming
Thanks.
 
#16 ·
Under $1k complete...seems like not long ago I saw one for $600 because I had the thought I might buy it and and stick it in a corner incase I ever needed parts. This little thing weighs in under 500lb completely dressed and makes around 240HP. With a pulley and tuning it will go up around 300. I have no idea what has been done to mine....little scary....

Yes, it is 60 degree. 700R4 from a RWD 2.8 S-10 will bolt up. I also read that a TF904/999 from a cherokee will as well. Mine is a 700.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Spent some time in the shop today. welderhacck Plan was to mount shocks, weld out, and put the 44 back together....made one out of 3 and made more work. In trying to keep everything narrow it proves to be a little more difficult to package than I thought. Here is the first stab at shock placement and checking for binding or other issues.

With one side drooped it looked pretty good. This is about 12" droop shock position...first attempt....looked pretty good.


The issues started when I when full droop and full bump on the opposite side. I did not get alot of pictures because I was so damn frustrated trying to work it all out. In the end I have drive shaft binding at full droop drivers side so I am going to run a limit strap until I feel like fixing that. I am not going to do it with the 44 which I plan on removing as soon as I get a buyer. When the 60 is done and in I will rework it. I will probably have to shorten the intermediate shaft and lengthen the front shaft. I am going to do a little grinding on the yokes for now to get a little more angle, but there is not alot to be gained. Luckily the 60 pinion is located about 3 inches to the driver so it will improve binding some. I also have slight frame contact on the shock body so it will get notched slightly. At full bump the tires hit the shocks at full clock as well. So, this is where it ended up after alot of tweaking. So, in 5 hours I got shock tabs tacked in and hoops welded outspankn




I was very, very close to just going with 12" shocks cause it would be easier. I will probably end up using about 12" with a conservative bump stop and limit straps. I have timbren bumps on the way, and I am going to look at tractor supply for some straps that will work for limits.

I also found some super joints that are used, but have rebuild kits so I am planning on getting those as well. I was not going to replace the ujoints but the supers are so cheap it's hard not to get them because down the road I will want them. I also got my $50 drive slugs in this week.jamminzz
 
#18 · (Edited)
Worked out a trade with crewcab88 for a rear Dana 60 this weekend...strpot

Also got the 44 back together today so I can do a little wheeling while finishing the 60. Bumps will be here this week, so hopefully I can figure out mounting next weekend as well as figure out some limit straps....may use coated cable. Anyone done this? I dont see a reason not to and I can get the hardware to build perfect length straps for 1/4 what I can buy straps. Any problem with coated cable that I am missing?

I will also add that the new yukon shafts are very nice. They clear the gm knuckles and machining and finish is much, much nicer than the old ones. They are actually machined all the way over the entire length including the joint area.
 
#22 ·
Thanks. I appreciate it. Fortuneately or unfortuneately, however you look at it, I have never had alot of money to work with so I have learned to work with a little of nothing and beg, barter, or work for the little budget I do have for my junk.

I thought I had a money tree planted until the recession hit 4 years ago. I quit working on projects for two years, but scrounged enough to do some little projects and sell/trade/sell again them to start a nest egg to start projects again. Speaking of that I gotta get some stuff sold to keep going!
 
#23 ·
Got everything welded out and painted today. Got the shocks mounted, and I just have to get them charged now. There is a place in town that has nitrogen so I am gonna trailer it to town. I tryed using shop air at 125psi to get enough in them for the ride, but no dice there. I had to tack weld in some blocks to hold it up. Here are a couple pics and one at full bump sittin' lowrider style. Stil about 22" under the belly sittin' this low. I plan on bumping them up 4"

I also have my shock set where they have 1" of shaft showing at full pump. I ain't no expert, but bottomed shocks at full bump seems like a bad idea to me.

Ready for paint.


All back together with fresh coat of semigloss.


Full bump with 1" shock shaft showing. Full droop on the opposite side will push it up slightly more and puts the tire about 1" from the tube fender.

 
#25 ·
Looks awesome buddy !! Keep up the awesome work !!
Thanks:budlight:

Planning on getting the shocked charged this week, but I will probably be working on limit cables and bump stops next weekend while ya'll are in bridgeport. Wish I could make it, but I dont want to even chance breaking something before I have it all finished up. It's a little too flexy for its own good right now.
 
#27 ·
X2 keep the pics coming!!! definately liking everything, and on a budgetjamminzz
 
#29 ·
Got the air shocks charged yesterday in town. Turns out there is an auto repair shop that keeps nitrogen and has a 500psi regulator. $10 and I am in bidnis.

Lil' Droopy(note mechanics head at shock hoop on passenger side :D ):



This whole air shocks settling issue is biting me in the ***, though. We charged them to 225psi and had 6-7" of shaft showing. I bounced it and what not and got just a little settle on one side. Backed out and loaded it on the trailer and had 2" of shaft showing....crap. Unloaded and bumped them up to 255(just where the regulator settled). 6-7 inch of shaft showing, bounced it around, and loaded up. Settled to 4". Dammmiiiitt....I was wanting 5-6, but I was afraid the guy would run me off if I asked for another 25psi. So, I am gonna get the bumps on and run it like this and see how it works. With the timbren bumps it will be about 1" from the bumps since they compress close to 2". I think it might actually work pretty good after looking at it.

Ride height is about like it it is in the pic I posted above....its a freakin' low rider!!!
 
#30 ·
Had it out last night and did a little flex testing with the air shocks. Everything was good except drive shaft binding that I knew was gonna happen, but the 60 pinion location should fix that. The shocks are a little weird to me in that they dont compress fully at full flex. Which it was not actually fully flexed I guess since tires were all planted and down tires could have dropped more?? I was expecting a more compression. Any insight?

Here is the shock. There is about 1/2" between it and the tires which is what I had come up with when testing in the shop. Looks like it will work.





 
#31 ·
How much oil are you running in the shocks? When you charge the shocks, you need to cycle the suspension a few times, run it around the block, over some curbs, etc.. what ever is available. Then re-charge. It takes a couple times and once they are set, you shouldn't have to mess with them again. Except for any tuning you might want to do.

Flex testing like that won't fully compress the shock. You need to get it into real world situations and even then, I don't like to see the shock fully bottom, but that's my personal preference.

If this is your first run with air shocks, it will take some getting used to. You're going to want to run a suck down winch on the front for off camber, steep climbs to keep the unloading at bay.

I have spent hours tuning my shocks, so if you have any questions, I'll be happy to help. If you were closer, I'd help tune. I have a Nitrogen setup so I don't have to pay others to charge them for me.:toast:
 
#32 ·
I do not know the shock oil volume. I bought them used and figured I would charge them and see how they reacted since I did not have a base line to start with. If I dont like the rate I will drain, measure, and tune from there. They are pretty soft and the axle hits the frame just dropping off the trailer which with no flex is about 1" from shock bottom. Not to worry I have bump stops in the shop. I mention this because they are not overly stiff at all like they have too much oil. I can stand on the front and rock it back and forth pretty easily.

I set them where they will not bottom at full bump straight on and if I got it right will still have 1/2" or just over shaft showing at full flex pivoting off the bump stops. Bumps will be adjustable height so I can get this just right. I also think bottoming is a real bad idea.

This is my first air shock experience and it was weird right off the bat. I had it in 2 high and dropped it in gear while holding the brakes and the front end came up about 6 inches...maybe more. It was weird as heck. I dropped it back down and hooked up the winch for suck down. I already have a hoop on the axle. I think this has to do with the radius arm setup. I am gonna do some research and try to figure out some 3 link geometry that would fix this.

The above happened on pavement. I played with it in 4 low on gravel and in the pasture and it never offered to even try again. Winch was hooked up, but I did not have it tight.
 
#33 ·
To me, it sounds like you don't have enough oil.

I have a one link in the rear and three link in the front. In rear wheel drive, if I don't have the winch tied off and hammer it, I can almost get full travel out of the driver front. Get on a side hill or steep off camber and get on it, it gets real hairy, real quick. I don't keep my suck down tight, just enough so that it doesn't rare up. To keep the rare up to a minimum, they need a higher volume of oil and lower volume of air. Being air shocks, they are going to unload, but can be dialed in to where it's manageable.
 
#34 ·
Low oil does make sense. I was thinking that but did not know for sure. I will have to locate some oil and try adding a little bit. What increments would you suggest going up?
 
#37 ·
Here is a pic with "The Amanda Jamey Buggy" that was listed here for the last 8 months. My brother picked it up a few weeks ago and has all the bugs worked out. He posted this on facebook so I thought I would share....Just for a size comparison;
 
#38 ·
Fabbed up some adjustable bump stops from junk laying around the scrap pile today. $70 for the stops shipped and $0 for the junk. I used 1.5 od dom tube for the sleeve, 1" schedule 20(not sure...it was scrap, but a nice fit :D ), and some 1/4 plate with holes punched in it for tabs. Here is the rough work.



Used 2 peices of 1" schedule 40 pipe for standoffs from the frame. I need to hack out the rest of the old spring mounts to get them adjusted up just a little more, but ran out of time today.


 
#39 · (Edited)
Got my budget limit cables installed, old spring mounts hacked out so I could adjust bumps a little better, and went and tested everything in the creek at my house. Was able to do a little more real world flex testing and it worked great. The air shocks work better after a few cycles and when they warm up. I guess pressure goes up a bit. With bump stops and limits they work pretty dang good. I need to adjust bumps down just a little and weld a little pad extension for them to hit on.

Here is a pic of the cables and the bungie to keep them pulled together and out of everything. Total investment is under $10 and they are adjustable and can be used with the 60 when it goes in.




Everything is ready for the 60 now. I have to get over to my buddys shop and machine the unit bearings for new pattern and shave the bottom. After that the 44 will come out. I am going to wheel it in two weeks so it will be at least three before I start on the 60 install, so not much to report for a little while.
 
#40 ·
Got my budget limit cables installed, old spring mounts hacked out so I could adjust bumps a little better, and went and tested everything in the creek at my house. Was able to do a little more real world flex testing and it worked great. The air shocks work better after a few cycles and when they warm up. I guess pressure goes up a bit. With bump stops and limits they work pretty dang good. I need to adjust bumps down just a little and weld a little pad extension for them to hit on.

Here is a pic of the cables and the bungie to keep them pulled together and out of everything. Total investment is under $10 and they are adjustable and can be used with the 60 when it goes in.




Everything is ready for the 60 now. I have to get over to my buddys shop and machine the unit bearings for new pattern and shave the bottom. After that the 44 will come out. I am going to wheel it in two weeks so it will be at least three before I start on the 60 install, so not much to report for a little while.
Looks good, where you going in two weeks?
 
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