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85 Toyota stepping up to 1 tons



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Old 12-30-2014, 09:54 PM   #1
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85 Toyota stepping up to 1 tons

I figured this would be a good place to start and document my 1 ton axle upgrade on my 85 Xtra cab. I'm still in the learning and researching phase of the build. Any and all input is appreciated since I am only slightly familiar with domestic axles.

Right now my truck is wheelable and functional. Typical as in many mini truck builds the current specs are :

22re, R151, Duals, 5.29's, detroits, 37s, Longs, cage, PSC hydro assist, tube bed, fuel cell...

My plans are to build my future axles completely and have most of the parts on hand before I take the current axles out and try to recoup a little money.

I have a SRW full float 14 Bolt with 410's and am working on picking up a Chevy D60 (with 3.73's or 4.10's) need to confirm.

Plans are to keep it on leafs, 5.38's, rear Detroit, rear disc brakes, shave the 14B, a front selectable locker and go with a 39 in or bigger tire. I would like to link it if funds allow.

Here are some pics now in its current state.













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Last edited by boomtacoma01; 08-10-2016 at 09:37 PM..
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Old 12-31-2014, 06:13 AM   #2
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Are you going to keep the 38's or go bigger? If you stay with 38, I'd suggest at a minimum you grind the bottom lip off/smooth on the 14 bolt. Now would be a good time to just do a full shave though.
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:27 AM   #3
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I will be going to at least a 39 in tire. The shave is planned before the 14B goes under the truck. I'm more than likely going with the Barnes diff cover and trimming off the excess 1.25 inches on the bottom of the housing.
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Old 12-31-2014, 12:13 PM   #4
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Old 12-31-2014, 05:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomtacoma01 View Post
I will be going to at least a 39 in tire. The shave is planned before the 14B goes under the truck. I'm more than likely going with the Barnes diff cover and trimming off the excess 1.25 inches on the bottom of the housing.
I went with the Barnes cover and am happy with it. If funds allow, do a full shave though.............
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Old 12-31-2014, 08:51 PM   #6
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Shave it!



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Old 01-01-2015, 01:26 PM   #7
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Gotta see where the funds are when it comes down to it. It's about a 5-600 dollar difference between the Barnes cover and the shave kit, ring gear mods and getting it installed. I may want to use that money somewhere else for the time being.
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Old 01-01-2015, 02:53 PM   #8
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Ballistic Fab has them for $289. The was the best thing I did to my 14 bolt when I had it.
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Old 01-01-2015, 07:28 PM   #9
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Put your gear on a junk set of bearings and add a flapper wheel. Just take breaks to keep the heat down. It's pretty easy to do. Ramon had to redo his after a shop did it, and it was a breeze. You don't "have" to pay for the turn down. The shave kit is barely $100 more than just a diff cover. Ramon posted great tech on how to make the cut in his thread. Then just burn it in. You're welcome to come over and use the 256 whenever.
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Old 01-01-2015, 07:52 PM   #10
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Looking back at it the Barnes cover lets you lose 1.25 inches and the Ballistic one loses 2 inches. I'm still gathering parts and this swap won't even begin until April so I can wheel the truck a few more times before then. The goal is to have the axles fully built before the old ones come out.

I appreciate all of the input. I may take you up on the use of you new machine.
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:06 PM   #11
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85 Toyota stepping up to 1 tons

Got a nice piece in from Jesse at Hi Angle. This thing is nice. Almost have all my parts together for my 14B.

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85 XtraCab, 22RE, A340/Atlas 2, D60/14B, 40s, Full Hydro, Lonestar Light a plenty
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Old 01-23-2015, 03:56 PM   #12
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Can't hide money...
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:26 AM   #13
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I wish I had some money hiddden somewhere. The sad thing is that the rear axle is the cheap (ish) one to build. The D60 may cost a left nut.
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Old 01-27-2015, 02:26 PM   #14
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TMR has a 14bolt shave kit that requires no ring gear modifications for $150. I hope to do this sometime soon.

TMR Customs 15 Bolt Conversion NO RING GEAR MACHINING REQUIRED : TMR Customs, Custom Fabrication Components for Offroad Vehicles
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:17 PM   #15
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Decided to add some extra light to the red truck while waiting on some parts and time to swap the tons in. I got it all welded up and in place. It will probably have to be moved back a bit when the light bar is installed to reduce glare. Final placement will be determined by the dimensions of the light bar.











Got my light bar finished and painted. I picked up a 42" radius bar on Amazon that didn't break my wallet. I ran the wiring up from under the hood and up the A-pillar to supply power for the light. I used grommets and some clear poly sealant to seal everything up. I have about a 1/4 inch gap between the bottom of the bar and the roof. I also moved the mount back further to reduce any unwanted glare off of the hood and windshield.











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Old 04-10-2015, 01:20 AM   #16
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The good old days.
i have 5.13's in my axles. I believe 5.38 requires some clearense inside the 14 bolt housing. It still drove fine with 38.5 on H1's with 5.13 on my 20R/w56/stock duals combo.
I opt to just redo all my brake lines from scratch. Made my own adaptor plate to mount my Chevy master cylinder to my yoda brake booster.
running a T fitting in the middle of my axles I eliminated my brake lines that tend to get in the way coming off the brake calipers. Did that to the front and rear of my rig.
I have a brake proportional valve in line to adjust rear braking.
rears up front minus the over load spring and added to more leafs making it a 5 pack. Anything less was to soft and bent the two main leafs. Made my own drop hanger and later extended for my one ton swap. Made my own shackles that are off set as well. A quality flare kit is a must. I tried autozone tool they sell and it just ducked big times to get a doable flare that would seal properly.
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Old 04-16-2015, 02:18 PM   #17
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Old 04-18-2015, 02:10 PM   #18
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Cool thanks for the quality information. That is the kind if stuff I will need to know. Should be getting started mid May or so.
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:25 AM   #19
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A quick question regarding steering. What would yall suggest since I will be keeping my current hydro assist set up and upgrading to a 8inch steering cylinder? Does traditional crossover have advantages over a y-link set up? With X-over, I would have to keep my tie rod in the stock location in front of the diff. Or would it be better to move the tie rod up to the steering arms and have a separate tie rod and drag link? I would think that would be a better option. Any opinions?
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:39 PM   #20
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Any input on the steering?

Picked up my Chevy D60 this weekend. Now to start tearing into that. It had a sweet rack and pinion steering set up on it.

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Old 05-17-2015, 07:45 PM   #21
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I'd go with a knuckle tie in kit if they are stock knuckles.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:47 AM   #22
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I ordered these yesterday chris. He is running a memorial day special with 20% off his website.

$160 for arms, studs, and the tie-in kit shipped to my door. The best deal out there IMO. not as fancy as Artec, but the result is the same

Dana 60 thick Milled High Steer arms with Knuckle tie in kit - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Here is a pic of them on Rons Sami. I am going to a DE ram up front on mine.
[/
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:35 PM   #23
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Knuckle reinforcement kit

I added these to mine as well. Pretty sure they have a pirate discount. Throw them on the grill, burn em in, and bury them.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:27 PM   #24
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85 Toyota stepping up to 1 tons

Cool. Thanks for the link on the arms.

I picked up my front axle over the weekend. Got it unloaded and started tearing it apart this evening. Turns out the axle has drive flanges. I removed the tie rod and pulled the axles. Looked ok. Had a couple of areas that looked like they were starting to wear a little. I also pulled the cover to verify what gearing I have which is 3.54. Now I know what gears and locker I need to pick up. Looks like the BOM# is no more. I'm pretty sure it's a chevy axle though. This is one heavy SOB. I'm picking up another set of jack stands and an engine hoist this week so I don't have to work on the ground. Then I will start burning off the all the unneeded bracketry and clean the axle up some more.



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Old 05-19-2015, 06:50 AM   #25
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You have the neck-down shafts, but on a Toy they may be fine. If you have access to someone with a big sand blaster, it sure makes it easier to clean it up. The knuckles can be done in a cabinet. You have some work ahead of you, but its fun!

I don't know what your suspension plans are, but you can run your knuckles backwards, and put your ram on the back side of the axle, out of the way.
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