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Old 11-17-2013, 08:01 PM   #1
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Camper hauler.

Well I found a trailer in Tuscon so my Wife and I went and got it. We left Friday about 2:30 and got back today about noon. The drawing is to scale. 1/4" = 1'.
Tore down the 2 inner walls down today. Going to check prices on 2x3 boxed aluminum so I can make the extensions to the floor where the Jeep will sit. The trailer floor is only 6' wide. I'm going to have to add to it. I may go as much as 1' on each side. Haven't decided how much yet.



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Old 11-17-2013, 08:35 PM   #2
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Looks cool, why the overhang.
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:57 PM   #3
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Help keep the air from buffeting between the trailer and the Jeep and some shade? I'm thinking the propane tanks will mount back there. Maybe some tool boxes?
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:03 PM   #4
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Quick floor plan.

2013-11-17 20.02.50.jpg
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:11 PM   #5
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I may use the stuff out of My slide in camper. Water tank, Stove top, fridge, A/C unit, heater, benches, sink the converter... Figure I can get $1,500.00 out of the pop up. If I strip it, I may be able to save that or more building the guts of the new camper.
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:39 PM   #6
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I've had this idea for a long time. But keep from doing it every time I try because I've always been told you cut the structure of a horse trailer you take all the strength out of it.

But dam cool idea.
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:16 AM   #7
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I've had this idea for a long time. But keep from doing it every time I try because I've always been told you cut the structure of a horse trailer you take all the strength out of it.

But dam cool idea.
Who told you that? Did they know for sure or were they guessing? I hope it's not true because today, tomorrow time frame I'll be cutting the back off.
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:51 AM   #8
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I've heard the same. Mostly on aluminum framed horse trailers. It has a big main beam that runs down each side at the top. A lot of the strength is in those.
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:08 AM   #9
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I agree that the sides and top add to the strength of the trailer. I'm hoping I don't have to go back and beef up the frame. This trailer doesn't have a big beam at the top of the sides. I'll have more pic's soon. The frame is 2x3' box 1/8" aluminum may have to go back and set the hole dam thing on an I beam or steel box??

Anyone else run into this post up!!
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:11 AM   #10
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Also a bit concerned about cracks. I did hear the aluminum ones tend to do so.
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:58 AM   #11
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Who told you that? Did they know for sure or were they guessing? I hope it's not true because today, tomorrow time frame I'll be cutting the back off.


A cowboy(and not the shitty football team ones)
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:04 AM   #12
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Nice idea. With a very nice package to start with.

While my jealousy is strong, would a rig like mine fit inside, unmodified?
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:36 AM   #13
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Nice idea. With a very nice package to start with.

While my jealousy is strong, would a rig like mine fit inside, unmodified?


Evan, You can find them that are 80" wide or so. The new buggy is only 76" wide. Thats what ive been keeping a eye out for. But you need the one that doesnt have the bar in the middle with the splits doors.
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:14 PM   #14
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I've had this idea for a long time. But keep from doing it every time I try because I've always been told you cut the structure of a horse trailer you take all the strength out of it.

But dam cool idea.
You were absoluity correct I cut the walls and roof of the back and I wouldn't tow it across town. So got to do something and have some ideas. More on that after we decide exactly what to do. Did a lot of this today .

Note the jack stands under the frame of the trailer. It needed it real bad!

2013-11-18 16.44.22.jpg

2013-11-18 16.52.04.jpg

2013-11-18 16.44.37.jpg
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:22 PM   #15
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Ouch!
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:25 PM   #16
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Ouch!
Yea sucks but I get it figured out.
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:46 PM   #17
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That stinks, and it's all aluminum?
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:03 PM   #18
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That stinks, and it's all aluminum?
Everything is aluminum even the hinge pins are aluminum. Hell the dam goose neck is aluminum except for the piece that goes inside that has the hitch itself.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:20 PM   #19
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Were the jack stands in rear needed also to keep from bending the frame? If so that ain't good. Either way look like you almost need to put what's left on a steel frame. If that's the case it would suck if this ends up being a costly life lesson.


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Old 11-18-2013, 07:29 PM   #20
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Were the jack stands in rear needed also to keep from bending the frame? If so that ain't good. Either way look like you almost need to put what's left on a steel frame. If that's the case it would suck if this ends up being a costly life lesson.


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Yep needed both sets of stands. I got a plain that I'm sure will work.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:03 PM   #21
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I got a pain for sure.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:24 PM   #22
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You were absoluity correct I cut the walls and roof of the back and I wouldn't tow it across town. So got to do something and have some ideas. More on that after we decide exactly what to do. Did a lot of this today .

Note the jack stands under the frame of the trailer. It needed it real bad!

Attachment 15138

Attachment 15146

Attachment 15154



Thanks for proving it for me and not me going to get a trailer to prove it to myself
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:32 AM   #23
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Thanks for proving it for me and not me going to get a trailer to prove it to myself
Whats going to happen is I'm going to make it so you can go get one because I'm going to fix the problem then you'll know what to do.
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:29 AM   #24
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So how are you going to fix it?
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:08 AM   #25
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This is what I came up with yesterday. I'm sure it will work, just haven't commeted as there may be an easer way.

Going to put a 6" rec under the aluminum frame, take 2 ea l angles drop over the top and weld to the lower new 6" box. I'll run bolts through the aluminum just for shits and giggles. I'll have 6 vertical surfaces to keep things from moving around. I'm going to get with Rocky from Marks pipe and iron, he should know exactly what sizes I need to keep the frame straight. He's bin building trailers for ever.
The trailer sits lower in the rear than I thought it should 22" in the front and 15" in the rear, to the bottom of the deck. So adding the 6" under the frame will help with this problem also. I could lower the front at the goose but think the clearance between the box and trailer is good where it is.


2013-11-19 06.55.24.jpg
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