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Nadine, the rear engine Honda buggy



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Old 05-13-2010, 09:34 PM   #51
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Militia_CJ rock stacker
nice build you have here. I myself have begun to gather tubing for a similar build but inplace of the honda motor I'm leaning toward a 32V Nortgstar V8 from a caddie.
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Old 05-13-2010, 11:35 PM   #52
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Ive seen a few northstar buggies and i think its cool as hell, It was just stupid cheap for that honda, plus with less hp its harder to break ****, which we know is everyones enemy

Militia_CJ, im hoping we will see a build thread soon...?
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Old 05-14-2010, 10:12 AM   #53
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I've been working on a build like yours for about 6 months.
It's an off/on project that I work on when I get time and materials.


1977 Chevy long wide frame....shortend to Jeep wheelbase.
D44/10 Bolt with 4.10 gears.
1948 Chevy truck cab and front clip.
1984 Ford Escort 1.6L and Manual 5 speed, mounted between the axles.
My engine faces "the right way".

I still need to build the rear driveshaft, body mounts, roll bar, and wire it up. It's , so it will be cake.

It will be street legal. Slow, but street legal.
I don't plan to weld the transmission spiders, but will lock the axle.
It won't be a rock crawler, just sort of like a beach buggy, for fun.

So far I have less than $200 in the whole build.
The frame/axles were free.
The engine/tranny was free.
The body was $50.
The rest was spent in cutting/welding supplies.
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Old 05-14-2010, 11:55 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Militia_CJ View Post
nice build you have here. I myself have begun to gather tubing for a similar build but inplace of the honda motor I'm leaning toward a 32V Nortgstar V8 from a caddie.
i dont understand why people want to build buggies with a motor PROVEN to lose at least 2-3 quarts of oil every 3k miles. back when i managed oil change shops i HATED those damn caddies and the old people that drove them that would come in after 2k miles and be all mad because they're super low on oil already and its our fault. F$@% northstar junk. LS motors are where its at
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:04 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tribaltalon View Post
i dont understand why people want to build buggies with a motor PROVEN to lose at least 2-3 quarts of oil every 3k miles. back when i managed oil change shops i HATED those damn caddies and the old people that drove them that would come in after 2k miles and be all mad because they're super low on oil already and its our fault. F$@% northstar junk. LS motors are where its at
LS motors are really awsome but I have always liked the Northstar and if it's low on oil then i'll just make sure to top it off when it's low. Or I could just slap a high horsepower small block ford, but that would defeat the whole idea of a trans axle non transfercase 4 wheel steer buggy
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:22 PM   #56
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This coming out badass...can't wait to build a 2 seat buggy with an LQ9
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Old 05-16-2010, 10:57 PM   #57
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lookin good... how long till completion? or atleast a test run?
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Old 05-17-2010, 06:45 AM   #58
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I hope to have it ready for a test run by the end of June. I've completed most of the major work and now have all the nickle and dime stuff to finish (90% done - 90% left to go). I did manage to get that rat's nest wiring harness completely connected so that the engine will at least turn over. I don't have a fuel system hooked up so I couldn't start it. Mounted some wheels so I can move it out of the shop and hook up a test fuel system. Small steps!
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Old 05-17-2010, 05:52 PM   #59
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In a buggy like that, it would take forever and a year to rack up that kind of mileage. I would imagine it wouldnt have to get topped off very often.

Buggy is coming along nicely (and fastly), glad those shocks worked out for you too .
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Old 05-22-2010, 04:06 PM   #60
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Took the buggy off the jackstands and rolled it out to get some pics and check clearances. Found a couple of aw-sh***s but mostly good.
Look at them 28s.


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Old 05-22-2010, 06:34 PM   #61
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Nadine, the rear engine Honda buggy

Looks good. What kind of problems did you find?
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Old 05-23-2010, 10:28 AM   #62
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When the right rear is at full bump and the left rear is at full extension, the rear drive shaft will not clear the rear cross brace. I'll have to re-fab the cross brace to allow clearance.
Also similar interference on the front drive shaft. With the big extensions, the pinion angle on the front is on the edge so I'll need to remount the carrier bearing to accommodate the shift.
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:15 PM   #63
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This weekend while the rest of you were out having fun at Katemcy, I did some corrective work on Nadine while fabricating the front drive shaft. The plan was to have a shaft from the transaxle to the front cross brace passing through a bearing, then a section from there to the diff yoke. I wanted to be able to replace the bearing if necessary as well as allow for the slight length variations as the axle flexed.
Went to the salvage yard and picked up a drive shaft from a long bed pickup so I could get the carrier assembly. The only one they had was from a 3500 Chevy but the price was right at $50. I cut the weld yokes from the shaft and was going to use them all over but found that there was not enough clearance at the transaxle as the yokes were 1350s. Went back to the salvage yard and picked up a shaft with 1310 yokes for $20 so I could use them at the transaxle case. I know it is overkill for this buggy but the key word is affordable.
As I noted in the previous post, I needed to make an adjustment to the front cross brace to allow for clearance of the driveshaft and to make the pinion angle acceptable. I decided to put a tunnel into the brace. Got a piece of 6 inch diameter pipe from my son (who started this thread) and cut it in half to provide the tunnel. I cut the brace to fit the tunnel, leaving the bottom of the brace to keep the frame from warping.
Cut out the bottom section after welding so there was complete clearance.

Mounted the carrier bearing to an additional cross member and assembled the drive shaft.


Next step is to fabricate the rear drive shaft.
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Old 06-19-2010, 12:50 PM   #64
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PIMP i like it, any updates ?
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:28 PM   #65
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well since greybeard hasn't updated yall, i guess i will. Two weekends ago we rigged up a temporary gas can and battery to see if we could get the engine to start. After some minor troubleshooting(the ecm needed to be grounded) it roared to life.

Incase some of you have never heard a 4 banger with open exhaust i would suggest getting on that cause its really funny.

Now he is in the process of building a small permanent fuel cell. He tried to build it out of aluminum but failed so now he is building it out of steel. Expect pics to come.
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Old 06-22-2010, 11:05 PM   #66
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need bigger tires .


NAAA.... FORREALZ YOU BUGGIE IS LOOKIN SEXY. I'd play with nadine anyday of the week.
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Old 07-10-2010, 03:05 PM   #67
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graybeardtx just gettin started
You'll notice I didn't put a year when I said I hoped to have a test run by the end of June . Anyhow as son says, I went on an adventure to make a fuel tank. I started with aluminum but my TIG skills suck so I went to steel. I tried to use 20 gauge steel but again, my welding skills have deteriorated over the years. When I was building airplanes for a hobby, I welded 20 gauge regularly but lack of practice has made those skills disappear. So I went with 12 gauge. My welds are still rough looking but the tank is finished except for paint. It is designed so that I could use the fuel pump from the donor car.

Next on the agenda was to finish the drive shaft to the rear axle. Then on to the tires. It does look better with the 37s. I have only mounted the fronts so I can check how much steering travel I have before it either hits the stops or the frame. Then I can mount the steering ram and get that out of the way.

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Nadine - Custom Honda Powered mid engine buggy.

If it can be done it can be overdone!
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Old 07-10-2010, 03:15 PM   #68
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looks sweet
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Old 07-11-2010, 01:43 PM   #69
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Checked the clearance on the tires and the frame - no problems on the front. Now to do the rear.
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Nadine - Custom Honda Powered mid engine buggy.

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Old 07-12-2010, 04:06 PM   #70
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I thought you might be interested in how I did my DIY beadlocks. I put one of the spindles and hub from the front diff on top of a pedestal (a manual tire changer) so the height was appropriate for my size. When welding the bead, I could rotate the assembly easily to access the entire circumference from one spot. Here is a pic of the setup.

With the controversy over nutserts vs. self locking nuts for the DIY Beadlocks, I really don't want to have to do 128 self locking nuts but I also don't want to deal with the failure of nutserts. I decided to use welded nuts. I opted for a square nut since the corners of the nuts are farther from the threads making it possible to weld the nuts without affecting the threaded area.
Here is a pic of the welded nuts. The ring is upside down in this pic.

Here is the ring ready to weld. I used a torch to burn the paint from the rim and then brushed with a stainless brush on my angle grinder. I also ground a chamfer on the ring to allow for a better weld penetration.

So now all 4 wheels are done.
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Nadine - Custom Honda Powered mid engine buggy.

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Old 07-12-2010, 08:30 PM   #71
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Nice work Sir. Keep it up and keep the pics coming.
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Old 08-20-2010, 02:08 PM   #72
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Sorry I haven't been keeping the post updated. I have been working on the rig. The wiring has been (and still is) a nightmare. I have finally managed to make the wiring harness manageable. There are still a few wires that I suspect are not needed but until I can actually run the engine through it's paces, I won't know for sure. Since my unit has a transmission control unit, there just simply are a lot more wires required. I managed to find an enclosure for the 2 control units from Grainger. I tried several tool boxes but they were all either too big or too small. Here is a photo of the enclosure with the under hood fuse box located above it. I am keeping the fuse box because it has 4 built in relays I can use.


I have also mounted the radiator and battery.


I mounted the shifter from the donor car and used a Hurst shifter cable to mate with the shifter cable from the Honda. There are lots of wires from this to the transmission computer. You can also see the front drive shaft.
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Nadine - Custom Honda Powered mid engine buggy.

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Old 08-21-2010, 07:14 AM   #73
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I feel your pain, mine is fuel injected and there's just no good place for all that wire.
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The wiring has been (and still is) a nightmare.
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Old 08-21-2010, 02:18 PM   #74
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True dat! Honda doesn't seem to know that every item doesn't have to have both a power wire and a ground wire. The frame serves as a grounding block. They even have wires running from the ECU to the A/TCU (which are side by side in the passenger floor) via the engine.
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Nadine - Custom Honda Powered mid engine buggy.

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Old 08-21-2010, 07:18 PM   #75
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I meant to take more photos of the process but of course just charged ahead. The exhaust on the Honda engine normally goes under the oil pan to the rest of the exhaust system. I thought it would be better if the exhaust went up instead of down. I plan to build a custom header at some point but for mock-up purposes and possibly early testing, I modified the existing manifold.

I took the existing manifold and, using the metal bandsaw in the vertical position, fed the manifold through to separate the flange from the tubes. I rotated the tubes 180 degrees with respect to the flange and since the manifold is either cast iron or cast steel (not sure which) I braze welded the tubes back to the flange in this position. Here is a photo of the modified manifold mounted on the engine.


You can see on the rear tube where I also braze welded a crack in that tube.
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Nadine - Custom Honda Powered mid engine buggy.

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