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One more 1 ton TJ



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Old 08-17-2012, 02:53 PM   #51
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So I actually finished it up at Trees the day before the first run. I did really well even without swaybars, hydro and less than optimal gearing.

A few minor issues but nothing that cannot be fixed. Enough of that, here are a few wheeling pics I took. I was more into wheeling than pic taking and my buddy is driving in some of these but you get the idea.












Thats it for now. If you are going to HF at the end of the month I will be there unless something serious comes up. Look me up and lets do some wheeling.
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:56 PM   #52
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dustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubisdustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubisdustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubisdustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubisdustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubisdustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubisdustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubisdustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubisdustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubisdustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubisdustin_mud Surfs Venus with Anubis
Looks great
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:00 PM   #53
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brug33 Surfs Venus with Anubisbrug33 Surfs Venus with Anubisbrug33 Surfs Venus with Anubisbrug33 Surfs Venus with Anubisbrug33 Surfs Venus with Anubisbrug33 Surfs Venus with Anubisbrug33 Surfs Venus with Anubisbrug33 Surfs Venus with Anubisbrug33 Surfs Venus with Anubisbrug33 Surfs Venus with Anubisbrug33 Surfs Venus with Anubis
Sweet, always liked your build!!
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:23 PM   #54
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Thanks guys, sorry it took so long to update. Going to try and keep it up better as I hopefully start adding stuff soon.
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:48 PM   #55
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Really nice rig man! Good to see you get it going!
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:17 PM   #56
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Awesome job on the jeep...
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The orange jeep does look bitchin!!
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:59 PM   #57
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Thanks a lot guys
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:30 PM   #58
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Need some help here. Only wheeled the TJ twice since the build and have yet to add hydro assist to the steering mainly because I needed a money spending break but also because I wasn't sure I was going to leave the steering as it is. When I was building the front axle I really didn't know what I was doing besides what I've read online and when I brought it to the shop to finish up a few things (including the steering) I left them with a less than desirable set up to work with.

Essentially I didn't leave quite enough room for the draglink to use the rear most mounting hole in the high steer arm without contacting the track bar. The result was me only being able to steer about half one direction vs the other.

Also, I know both ends of my draglink are only mounted single sheer and it is something I plan on correcting once I figure out the final configuration. I am hoping for some input on what you guys think would be the best fix.

I'm not ready to do full hydro but possibly in the future, its just not in the budget right now.

Here are some pics of the current setup, any ideas would be appreciated.









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Old 01-21-2013, 05:32 PM   #59
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Is that a stock pitman arm?
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:34 PM   #60
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No its a drop pitman for a 4" lift. I was originally going to swap back to a stock on but by leaving this I could keep the DL and track bar in the same plane and add to the pitman arm to make it double sheer.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:32 PM   #61
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It's hard to tell by the pictures but it looks like your drag link could use to come up a couple inches to be inline. I just redid all my steering last week. I used a genright twisted pitman arm. It uses double sheer and raises it flat. May not work for you but thought I'd throw it out there. It's not cheap but it sure is built and well thought out.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:48 PM   #62
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It could probably come up a small bit but I think a flat one would be a bit much. I am more worried about getting the full range of my steering back. I'd like to skip all this and go to full hydro but it really isn't in the budget right now and I would like to keep the "street legality" intact as much as possible.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:57 AM   #63
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I was just going to say that a self tapped box and an ag ram make for a pretty cheap hydro assist. It might not be the sexiest option, but I'd go for functionality if thats all the budget allows.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:28 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by Turbos10 View Post
I was just going to say that a self tapped box and an ag ram make for a pretty cheap hydro assist. It might not be the sexiest option, but I'd go for functionality if thats all the budget allows.
Very true and as you can tell I'm not too worried about looks on my jeep. More concerned with the actual steering setup being corrected before I add the hydro assist. Going to have Matt at WTO tap my box and use the Redneck Ram kit when the time comes.
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:59 PM   #65
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Very minor update, in fact I don't know if I'd call it an update at all but I finally made the first move in making this thing street legal again.

Tailgate back on for the first time in about 2 years and I threw the license plate on as well. I will figure something out for a LP light in the future but I only plan on running it around town during the day for now anyways.

I will be ordering Genright's front LED kit as well as their flasher relay for the LEDs and most likely the flush mount tail lights. I wanted to go with the bolt on LEDs so I didn't have to cut 4.5" holes in my armor but with the price difference and a few reports I've been hearing about the durability and warranty of the bolt on LEDs I think I am just going to do the old reliable flush mounts.

Tailgate is dirty from sitting in the shop for years and is missing some countersunk bolts which I will be getting from Genright as well.



Also noticed this while I was flushing the radiator a few days ago, apparently when I ran into that rock last time I was out the diff cover took the hit. HD cover in the works.

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Old 03-10-2013, 08:48 PM   #66
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Go with cheap LEDs from a truck stop, that's what's on Scott's rubi. I got the flasher relay from northridge 4x4. Save money, genright is overpriced especially once you ship. I used a cheap lp light from autozone. I think I still have one. Been working on my old jeep for several years now.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:16 PM   #67
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The flasher is easy to do, what year is your TJ?
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:17 PM   #68
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All u need depending on year is the 4 pin electronic flasher from advance auto
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:02 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepsontoilet View Post
Go with cheap LEDs from a truck stop, that's what's on Scott's rubi. I got the flasher relay from northridge 4x4. Save money, genright is overpriced especially once you ship. I used a cheap lp light from autozone. I think I still have one. Been working on my old jeep for several years now.
The cheapest I have seen the flasher is $30 or so. Genrights stuff is a little high but they have probably been the best vendor I've dealt with and don't mind spending a little extra there. I'm going to check around and see if I can get the same stuff locally but if it's not what I am looking for I might still use them.

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The flasher is easy to do, what year is your TJ?
Mine is an 02, from what I have seen the flasher mod on the 97-00 models is as easy as cutting one circuit. Unfortunately on the 01 and up models there is quite a bit of tedeous soldering that needs to be done and while I could probably do it without burning up the flasher module $30 for a new one isn't ridiculous.

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All u need depending on year is the 4 pin electronic flasher from advance auto
2002, 5 pin.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:05 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinty View Post
Mine is an 02, from what I have seen the flasher mod on the 97-00 models is as easy as cutting one circuit. Unfortunately on the 01 and up models there is quite a bit of tedeous soldering that needs to be done and while I could probably do it without burning up the flasher module $30 for a new one isn't ridiculous.

2002, 5 pin.
Yeah the 2001-06 is more difficult and I chose not to do it. For some reason i thought yours was a 2000. I would just buy one. I bought mine for the LJ from GCD Offroad - An Ultra Care Car Products, Inc Company
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:22 AM   #71
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So I am looking at redoing my steering to correct the problems from the original build and while doing so I believe I found the source of at least some of the rattling in my suspension over rough terrain.

The back story is after I finished the build I did a shake down at Trees. Everything worked fairly well except on the roads to and from the trails (which most know are pretty rough) it sounded and felt like the whole suspension was coming apart. I suspected it was the Johnny Joints, loose jam nuts or something similar, having never run anything but bushings and it drove me nuts. I never could figure out why they were so loud and "klunky".

It actually had me climbing under the jeep periodically to make sure all the damn suspension bolts weren't falling out.

Fast forward to last night, I had the wife quickly cycle the suspension back and forth while I was under the jeep to check some clearances and steering movement and there is noticable play and klunking coming from what I suspect is the track bar which I used heims on both ends I got from KORE.

Since I am redoing my draglink I am going to have to redo the track bar mounts to clear it and I believe I can alleviate some of the problem switching from heims to joints.

I am thinking the best route is probably a poly bushing on the axle side and JJ on the frame side. The JJ should have plenty of rotation for the assembly and the poly bushing should help with the noise/klunk problem (JJ too). Does anyone see a problem with this? Thoughts? Suggestions? Experience?
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:01 AM   #72
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Quality lined hiem joints should not rattle if the mount holes are tight and the bolts are torqued. Cheap ones will. What they can do is rotate quickly back and forth making a clunking noise. My track bar is a hiem on the frame end and a 1ton TRE on the axle end. It all pretty old and has no slack at all.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:27 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbos10 View Post
Quality lined hiem joints should not rattle if the mount holes are tight and the bolts are torqued. Cheap ones will. What they can do is rotate quickly back and forth making a clunking noise. My track bar is a hiem on the frame end and a 1ton TRE on the axle end. It all pretty old and has no slack at all.
I checked to make sure the bolts were tight and they can't get any tighter. I can actually see the slop in the joint itself while the steering is being cycled. I think it was most likely a bad joint from the beginning.

Another situation has come up I need some input on. The 2 things my Jeep really needs work on is the steering and the gearing. I was originally just going to go full hydro but in light of the new steering setup I am working on it looks like hydro assist will work fine. That leaves me with a little money to play with the gearing.

I am still running the factory 4.0 with the stock ratio in the 231 and stock CUCV axle 4.56 hats. That was done to save some money during the build and while it does ok because of the automatic transmission it is lacking in the power department.

I can't afford to regear the axles and swap the transfer case at the same time so I am looking at transfer case options right now. I would love to have an atlas but it isnt in the cards now so it will have to wait.

The options I am considering are:

4to1 in the stock 231: $850
4to1 flipped d300 : $1200
231 crawl box with 231 : $650
231 crawl box with d300 : $1200

Any input on what to do with this setup, remember 4.0 with an auto and 4.56 axles.
The prices are obviously very approximate and dont include some things like ds mods. This is also assuming I can even get ahold of one of the 231 crawl boxes. I like the idea of twin sticks but it isnt essential. Im trying to keep it fairly inexpensive which is why I gravitate to the d300 since it can be upgraded little by little then sold later for money toward an atlas.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:19 PM   #74
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If you go 4-1 in the stock case just remember you can only use low in low gear. Above that you will spin the planetary too fast and blow it up. True story...buddy grenaded one and then learned if the limit. I'd pic the d300, but at one time all the 4-1 gears were unavailable.
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:27 PM   #75
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I'd go 300, that's what Ramon runs in his. I only gave $1800 for my atlas, which isn't that much more than a fully built 300.
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