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Old 07-02-2012, 10:25 AM   #1
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Project Rehab - CJ2 Buggy Rework

I am bored today so I thought I would start a little project thread on my CJ2 Buggy. When I get a new toy I can never leave well enough alone, so this is showing a few of the things I have done and some things yet to come. I call it rehab because I really need some kind of rehab for always wanting to fix what is not broke....its a sickness.

First thing I did when I got it was downsize from 42" TSL's to 39.5 Iroks thinking I would make the 1/2 ton axles live....after all it weighs less than 3000lbs loaded.

I bought superjoints and thought I would drive smart and everything would be peachy...not so much.

It started with this:


So I started researching for a hybred build with 50 gears and 60 outers and shafts. I ended up picking up this 60 complete for $150 and it got me to thinking. Why not just build a 60? Budget was a huge concern, but getting it so cheap and piecing together with some used stuff made it where I could swing it.


More a little later....``
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:17 AM   #2
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Because I was bored and had some time a month or so ago I did some tube work to add a little protection to the fiberglass shell. I like clean rigs so I want to keep it nice if possible. I added tube fenders front and rear which was a little more challenging with the fiberglass because everything has to tie back to the chassis. Material is 1" schedule 40 with 1.375 od. On the rear I hole sawed a couple spots in the bottom lip of the tub for outriggers to the inner tube chassis.



The front of the chassis is just 2x4x1/8 wall which is probably strong enough, but I wanted to add some rigidity as well as add protection for the hood and in the event of a flop or roll. So, tube that connects to the existing shock hoop and runs back to the heavy part of the chassis where the links attach. Then the outer tube runs from the front grille hoop and ties in slightly lower and rearward of the inside hoop. Both are tied together with two braces. In the future I may run an extension from the inside fender tube through the firewall into the main hoop.


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Old 07-02-2012, 11:24 AM   #3
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Under 3g's! Dayum. Was that on a certified scale? Love to see that slip. Are you going to redrill the front hubs to match the rear? Nice ride btw.
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:35 AM   #4
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My plan on the 60 was to do it for 12-1300 and recover a good bit of that with selling my built 44. It is a tiny budget, but I only started with $150 in it so it is doable. I am starting with an 04 super duty diff. It will be welded of course and I am planning on keeping factory inner shafts for now. I will run 4340 30 spline outers with spicer drive slugs. I will narrow it myself and turn down the unit bearings for 6x5.5 chevy pattern. I am planning on using my existing chevy brake setup mounted off of the Ford tabs. With the 99-04 knuckles it looks like it should be easy...famous last words, right? I will also do a shave and beef up the existing diff cover for protection. The bearings are in perfect condition so I plan on reusing what I can. Ujoints look good too so if they check out I will keep them too. I will also be doing my own gear setup...I think. So far parts list is:

Diff - $150
Gears - $150
Slugs - $50
Superior Outers - $300
Tabs and such - $100
Misc. - $200

So, I am at $950 with $200 more to spend on a gear install kit parts I need. I also have to get ball joints for one side and a unit bearing. I am hoping to find a good used factory bearing for cheap. But, I can get a new one for $125 with warranty from orielly.

I had originally planned on reusing the existing springs and shocks because they work well and it is very stable. Plus, it cost less. However, the 60 is a couple of inches wider on each side from the inner C out so that is not gonna work. I could run a wider front axle, but I kindof like being narrow and the fact that it loads on any trailer without issue. So, I am keeping my 64" WMS which means I have to cut down the 60 and go with air shocks or coilovers. I'd love coilovers, but it blows the budget. So, I picked up a used set of FOX 14" 2.0's for $250.



I cut the brackets on the 60 down and stuck it in the chop saw. In about 5 minutes it was narrower. I used a sawzall to cut to areas out of the tube that was left in the C to release the tension from the press fit and then pounded it out with a sledge.


Do all of you use a cutoff saw with shorts?
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:41 AM   #5
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Under 3g's! Dayum. Was that on a certified scale? Love to see that slip. Are you going to redrill the front hubs to match the rear? Nice ride btw.
I have not had it on a scale. I am going by what the guy who built it told me. But, it is built light; L67, 700R4, Atlas, 9", D44(okay, this swap may put me over ), fiberglass tub and fenders, Aluminum plate for skid....and it was not built with 800 pieces of tube that it did not need. I'll get it one a scale one day when I get it going just for giggles. The whole thing is pretty small. Its kindof like standing next to a gocart.

I will turn down the fronts and redrill them using the brake rotor as a guide. I will turn the hubs for a tight fit and then clamp it all in place on a good drill press. It's a little ghetto(seeing a theme here), but I can make it will work. If I can get access to an indexing wheel I will do that, but I dont see it happening.

And, thanks.
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:46 AM   #6
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This rig was originally built and run by Tony at TK-1 Racing for Calrocs. It was setup with 16" coilovers, but when sold it was partially stripped. The next owner set it up on coils and bilstiens so there are two sets of shock hoops. The originals are pointed WAY back with the current axle location so I just cut them off and used part of them to build new hoops off of the second set of hoops....its kindof ghetto, but I think once I get it done and get more of the coil setup cut off it will be fine. Here is the start:



BTW, I had to go behind the alternator is the reason for the semi-funky crossbar location. The alternator actually rubs the hood slightly.
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Old 07-02-2012, 01:20 PM   #7
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Good looking buggy. Get that 60 done so you can hit some trails with us.
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Old 07-02-2012, 02:15 PM   #8
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Looks pretty good for a heep!!! Lol
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Old 07-02-2012, 04:22 PM   #9
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Good looking buggy. Get that 60 done so you can hit some trails with us.
Thanks. I have new shafts for the 44, so once the air shocks are on I will wheel it like that if it does not sell.
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Old 07-02-2012, 04:29 PM   #10
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Looks pretty good for a heep!!! Lol
Thanks. Although nothing on it was ever made by jeep...I guess it's still sortof a jeep.
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:47 PM   #11
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its just a Jeep tub ... and a aftermarket one at that .. SUPER SICK ... keep the pics coming
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:19 PM   #12
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Haha. I was just playing guys. Lol
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:30 PM   #13
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Wish I had that little V6 in my toyota.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:50 PM   #14
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Wish I had that little V6 in my toyota.
Its a peppy little sucker. I have seen them complete for really cheap.

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its just a Jeep tub ... and a aftermarket one at that .. SUPER SICK ... keep the pics coming
Thanks.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:54 PM   #15
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Whats cheap and does that use the 60 bellhousing?
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:48 AM   #16
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Whats cheap and does that use the 60 bellhousing?
Under $1k complete...seems like not long ago I saw one for $600 because I had the thought I might buy it and and stick it in a corner incase I ever needed parts. This little thing weighs in under 500lb completely dressed and makes around 240HP. With a pulley and tuning it will go up around 300. I have no idea what has been done to mine....little scary....

Yes, it is 60 degree. 700R4 from a RWD 2.8 S-10 will bolt up. I also read that a TF904/999 from a cherokee will as well. Mine is a 700.
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:20 PM   #17
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Spent some time in the shop today. Plan was to mount shocks, weld out, and put the 44 back together....made one out of 3 and made more work. In trying to keep everything narrow it proves to be a little more difficult to package than I thought. Here is the first stab at shock placement and checking for binding or other issues.

With one side drooped it looked pretty good. This is about 12" droop shock position...first attempt....looked pretty good.


The issues started when I when full droop and full bump on the opposite side. I did not get alot of pictures because I was so damn frustrated trying to work it all out. In the end I have drive shaft binding at full droop drivers side so I am going to run a limit strap until I feel like fixing that. I am not going to do it with the 44 which I plan on removing as soon as I get a buyer. When the 60 is done and in I will rework it. I will probably have to shorten the intermediate shaft and lengthen the front shaft. I am going to do a little grinding on the yokes for now to get a little more angle, but there is not alot to be gained. Luckily the 60 pinion is located about 3 inches to the driver so it will improve binding some. I also have slight frame contact on the shock body so it will get notched slightly. At full bump the tires hit the shocks at full clock as well. So, this is where it ended up after alot of tweaking. So, in 5 hours I got shock tabs tacked in and hoops welded out




I was very, very close to just going with 12" shocks cause it would be easier. I will probably end up using about 12" with a conservative bump stop and limit straps. I have timbren bumps on the way, and I am going to look at tractor supply for some straps that will work for limits.

I also found some super joints that are used, but have rebuild kits so I am planning on getting those as well. I was not going to replace the ujoints but the supers are so cheap it's hard not to get them because down the road I will want them. I also got my $50 drive slugs in this week.
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:06 PM   #18
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Worked out a trade with crewcab88 for a rear Dana 60 this weekend...

Also got the 44 back together today so I can do a little wheeling while finishing the 60. Bumps will be here this week, so hopefully I can figure out mounting next weekend as well as figure out some limit straps....may use coated cable. Anyone done this? I dont see a reason not to and I can get the hardware to build perfect length straps for 1/4 what I can buy straps. Any problem with coated cable that I am missing?

I will also add that the new yukon shafts are very nice. They clear the gm knuckles and machining and finish is much, much nicer than the old ones. They are actually machined all the way over the entire length including the joint area.
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:27 PM   #19
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Worked out a trade with crewcab88 for a rear Dana 60 this weekend...

Also got the 44 back together today so I can do a little wheeling while finishing the 60. Bumps will be here this week, so hopefully I can figure out mounting next weekend as well as figure out some limit straps....may use coated cable. Anyone done this? I dont see a reason not to and I can get the hardware to build perfect length straps for 1/4 what I can buy straps. Any problem with coated cable that I am missing?

I will also add that the new yukon shafts are very nice. They clear the gm knuckles and machining and finish is much, much nicer than the old ones. They are actually machined all the way over the entire length including the joint area.
Glad we could work out a deal ! Now get it going and bring it to BP on the 21 !
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:12 PM   #20
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Glad we could work out a deal ! Now get it going and bring it to BP on the 21 !
Will have to see. Weekends have been really tied up so it's not looking good at this point. I want to, but it's just bad timing. Just in case, what is the timeline looking like?
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:51 PM   #21
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Don't know how I missed this thread but looking great! I like the way you are keeping it on a budget. Can you teach me how to do that...lol!
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:01 PM   #22
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Don't know how I missed this thread but looking great! I like the way you are keeping it on a budget. Can you teach me how to do that...lol!
Thanks. I appreciate it. Fortuneately or unfortuneately, however you look at it, I have never had alot of money to work with so I have learned to work with a little of nothing and beg, barter, or work for the little budget I do have for my junk.

I thought I had a money tree planted until the recession hit 4 years ago. I quit working on projects for two years, but scrounged enough to do some little projects and sell/trade/sell again them to start a nest egg to start projects again. Speaking of that I gotta get some stuff sold to keep going!
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:41 PM   #23
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Got everything welded out and painted today. Got the shocks mounted, and I just have to get them charged now. There is a place in town that has nitrogen so I am gonna trailer it to town. I tryed using shop air at 125psi to get enough in them for the ride, but no dice there. I had to tack weld in some blocks to hold it up. Here are a couple pics and one at full bump sittin' lowrider style. Stil about 22" under the belly sittin' this low. I plan on bumping them up 4"

I also have my shock set where they have 1" of shaft showing at full pump. I ain't no expert, but bottomed shocks at full bump seems like a bad idea to me.

Ready for paint.


All back together with fresh coat of semigloss.


Full bump with 1" shock shaft showing. Full droop on the opposite side will push it up slightly more and puts the tire about 1" from the tube fender.

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CJ2 fiberglass and tube buggy, L67 supercharged 6, RVB Art Carr 700R4, 3.8 Atlas, 60's welded/detroit, 40" Sticky Creepies, and a whole lotta SLOW because I dont want to break any more.
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:43 PM   #24
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Looks awesome buddy !! Keep up the awesome work !!


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Old 07-16-2012, 04:01 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crewcab88 View Post
Looks awesome buddy !! Keep up the awesome work !!
Thanks

Planning on getting the shocked charged this week, but I will probably be working on limit cables and bump stops next weekend while ya'll are in bridgeport. Wish I could make it, but I dont want to even chance breaking something before I have it all finished up. It's a little too flexy for its own good right now.
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CJ2 fiberglass and tube buggy, L67 supercharged 6, RVB Art Carr 700R4, 3.8 Atlas, 60's welded/detroit, 40" Sticky Creepies, and a whole lotta SLOW because I dont want to break any more.
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