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Old 07-16-2012, 07:50 AM   #26
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Nice work.
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:24 AM   #27
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Nice work.
X2 keep the pics coming!!! definately liking everything, and on a budget
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:06 AM   #28
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Thanks, guys.
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:00 AM   #29
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Got the air shocks charged yesterday in town. Turns out there is an auto repair shop that keeps nitrogen and has a 500psi regulator. $10 and I am in bidnis.

Lil' Droopy(note mechanics head at shock hoop on passenger side ):



This whole air shocks settling issue is biting me in the ***, though. We charged them to 225psi and had 6-7" of shaft showing. I bounced it and what not and got just a little settle on one side. Backed out and loaded it on the trailer and had 2" of shaft showing....crap. Unloaded and bumped them up to 255(just where the regulator settled). 6-7 inch of shaft showing, bounced it around, and loaded up. Settled to 4". Dammmiiiitt....I was wanting 5-6, but I was afraid the guy would run me off if I asked for another 25psi. So, I am gonna get the bumps on and run it like this and see how it works. With the timbren bumps it will be about 1" from the bumps since they compress close to 2". I think it might actually work pretty good after looking at it.

Ride height is about like it it is in the pic I posted above....its a freakin' low rider!!!
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:40 AM   #30
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Had it out last night and did a little flex testing with the air shocks. Everything was good except drive shaft binding that I knew was gonna happen, but the 60 pinion location should fix that. The shocks are a little weird to me in that they dont compress fully at full flex. Which it was not actually fully flexed I guess since tires were all planted and down tires could have dropped more?? I was expecting a more compression. Any insight?

Here is the shock. There is about 1/2" between it and the tires which is what I had come up with when testing in the shop. Looks like it will work.





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Old 07-20-2012, 06:27 AM   #31
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How much oil are you running in the shocks? When you charge the shocks, you need to cycle the suspension a few times, run it around the block, over some curbs, etc.. what ever is available. Then re-charge. It takes a couple times and once they are set, you shouldn't have to mess with them again. Except for any tuning you might want to do.

Flex testing like that won't fully compress the shock. You need to get it into real world situations and even then, I don't like to see the shock fully bottom, but that's my personal preference.

If this is your first run with air shocks, it will take some getting used to. You're going to want to run a suck down winch on the front for off camber, steep climbs to keep the unloading at bay.

I have spent hours tuning my shocks, so if you have any questions, I'll be happy to help. If you were closer, I'd help tune. I have a Nitrogen setup so I don't have to pay others to charge them for me.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:16 AM   #32
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I do not know the shock oil volume. I bought them used and figured I would charge them and see how they reacted since I did not have a base line to start with. If I dont like the rate I will drain, measure, and tune from there. They are pretty soft and the axle hits the frame just dropping off the trailer which with no flex is about 1" from shock bottom. Not to worry I have bump stops in the shop. I mention this because they are not overly stiff at all like they have too much oil. I can stand on the front and rock it back and forth pretty easily.

I set them where they will not bottom at full bump straight on and if I got it right will still have 1/2" or just over shaft showing at full flex pivoting off the bump stops. Bumps will be adjustable height so I can get this just right. I also think bottoming is a real bad idea.

This is my first air shock experience and it was weird right off the bat. I had it in 2 high and dropped it in gear while holding the brakes and the front end came up about 6 inches...maybe more. It was weird as heck. I dropped it back down and hooked up the winch for suck down. I already have a hoop on the axle. I think this has to do with the radius arm setup. I am gonna do some research and try to figure out some 3 link geometry that would fix this.

The above happened on pavement. I played with it in 4 low on gravel and in the pasture and it never offered to even try again. Winch was hooked up, but I did not have it tight.
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Old 07-20-2012, 08:07 AM   #33
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To me, it sounds like you don't have enough oil.

I have a one link in the rear and three link in the front. In rear wheel drive, if I don't have the winch tied off and hammer it, I can almost get full travel out of the driver front. Get on a side hill or steep off camber and get on it, it gets real hairy, real quick. I don't keep my suck down tight, just enough so that it doesn't rare up. To keep the rare up to a minimum, they need a higher volume of oil and lower volume of air. Being air shocks, they are going to unload, but can be dialed in to where it's manageable.
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Old 07-20-2012, 08:31 AM   #34
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To me, it sounds like you don't have enough oil.

I have a one link in the rear and three link in the front. In rear wheel drive, if I don't have the winch tied off and hammer it, I can almost get full travel out of the driver front. Get on a side hill or steep off camber and get on it, it gets real hairy, real quick. I don't keep my suck down tight, just enough so that it doesn't rare up. To keep the rare up to a minimum, they need a higher volume of oil and lower volume of air. Being air shocks, they are going to unload, but can be dialed in to where it's manageable.
Low oil does make sense. I was thinking that but did not know for sure. I will have to locate some oil and try adding a little bit. What increments would you suggest going up?
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Old 07-20-2012, 08:48 AM   #35
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Low oil does make sense. I was thinking that but did not know for sure. I will have to locate some oil and try adding a little bit. What increments would you suggest going up?
I normally go up in 20cc increments until I get it close to where I want it. I don't remember, are you running 2.5 or 2" shocks?
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Old 07-20-2012, 09:35 AM   #36
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I normally go up in 20cc increments until I get it close to where I want it. I don't remember, are you running 2.5 or 2" shocks?
2.0 with 250psi charge currently.
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:49 PM   #37
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Here is a pic with "The Amanda Jamey Buggy" that was listed here for the last 8 months. My brother picked it up a few weeks ago and has all the bugs worked out. He posted this on facebook so I thought I would share....Just for a size comparison;
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:47 PM   #38
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Fabbed up some adjustable bump stops from junk laying around the scrap pile today. $70 for the stops shipped and $0 for the junk. I used 1.5 od dom tube for the sleeve, 1" schedule 20(not sure...it was scrap, but a nice fit ), and some 1/4 plate with holes punched in it for tabs. Here is the rough work.



Used 2 peices of 1" schedule 40 pipe for standoffs from the frame. I need to hack out the rest of the old spring mounts to get them adjusted up just a little more, but ran out of time today.


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Old 07-30-2012, 08:42 PM   #39
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Got my budget limit cables installed, old spring mounts hacked out so I could adjust bumps a little better, and went and tested everything in the creek at my house. Was able to do a little more real world flex testing and it worked great. The air shocks work better after a few cycles and when they warm up. I guess pressure goes up a bit. With bump stops and limits they work pretty dang good. I need to adjust bumps down just a little and weld a little pad extension for them to hit on.

Here is a pic of the cables and the bungie to keep them pulled together and out of everything. Total investment is under $10 and they are adjustable and can be used with the 60 when it goes in.




Everything is ready for the 60 now. I have to get over to my buddys shop and machine the unit bearings for new pattern and shave the bottom. After that the 44 will come out. I am going to wheel it in two weeks so it will be at least three before I start on the 60 install, so not much to report for a little while.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:44 AM   #40
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Got my budget limit cables installed, old spring mounts hacked out so I could adjust bumps a little better, and went and tested everything in the creek at my house. Was able to do a little more real world flex testing and it worked great. The air shocks work better after a few cycles and when they warm up. I guess pressure goes up a bit. With bump stops and limits they work pretty dang good. I need to adjust bumps down just a little and weld a little pad extension for them to hit on.

Here is a pic of the cables and the bungie to keep them pulled together and out of everything. Total investment is under $10 and they are adjustable and can be used with the 60 when it goes in.




Everything is ready for the 60 now. I have to get over to my buddys shop and machine the unit bearings for new pattern and shave the bottom. After that the 44 will come out. I am going to wheel it in two weeks so it will be at least three before I start on the 60 install, so not much to report for a little while.
Looks good, where you going in two weeks?
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:12 AM   #41
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Looks good, where you going in two weeks?
Going to go out to Tolar and spend the day. I am working on a topographical trail map for them so I need to run as many trails as I can. We will probably also play around in some of the no-trail-areas with the big rocks. I need to ask permission, but there is one long run with big rocks over close to the active quarry that I would like give a go. I am just not sure where the line is on that area.

Would be great if you and/or the crew wants to make a trip out to play around.
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:07 AM   #42
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Where did you order the rubber bumps from? I know I looked into them years back but can't remember with what vendor.


Build looks good!!!


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Old 07-31-2012, 08:27 AM   #43
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Where did you order the rubber bumps from? I know I looked into them years back but can't remember with what vendor.


Build looks good!!!


.
I got them from a pirate member. I think they are around $60 a piece new. I can get numbers off of them if you dont have any luck, but I know you can google "timbren bump stops" and come up with a bunch of options. Poly performance has adjustable universal bump cans and stingers like I built as well.

And, thanks.
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Old 08-13-2012, 10:06 AM   #44
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Had a little fail on the cable limits this weekend. I did not realize exactly how much force these see, but it is alot. I pulled both of them loose in a half day. I was able to clamp them back and clamp the pee out of them, but I will have to rethink a little. For it to work the clamping point needs to be very smooth, unlike a standard tab, and I think it needs to be double wrapped to take tension off of the clamps. I will have to get more cable and try again. Of course by then I am up to the cost of 1 strap . But, I like to make stuff work or at least prove to myself it was a dumb idea and then spend the money to do it right.
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:13 AM   #45
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I got a couple hours this weekend, and continued the process of going juan ton baby!

My plan on this is to keep this thing wheelable if at all possible until time to bolt in the 60. So, I started building brackets off of measurements from the 44 that is under the rig. My plan is to have everything built and brackets tacked in place. So, the idea is to slide it in and it all work off of reference measurements....I know this is a pipe dream, but at least I should only have to make minor adjustments. I am hoping to get to the point that the 60 can go under it in a day and become a roller. Once I get to that stage and I know the width is gonna work I can order my last axle shaft. Extreme axle sales will supply, cut and respline a stock axle shaft for $110 so that is what I am doing on the odd ball long side. There are no off the shelf shafts available at all.

Took about 15 minutes with sawzall, 4.5" grinder with cutoff wheel, pry bar and BFH....but I think this is gonna work. You can't see it in the pic, but there is 1" space between the tab and the rib. Rib was cut down to make room. Once fitted, the axle tubes and housing will be either TIG'ed or nickel rod welded.


I thought about removing the existing brackets from the 44 and putting them on the 60, but since the plan is to use the 44 to keep wheeling for now I went digging in my scrap pile. I found a nice piece of 2x3x3/16 tube that I am using for the link conglomeration mount. This is the backbone for the top link and track bar as well as the mounting arm for the tractor ram. Tractor ram mount is two of Dan's bumper mounts from RuffStuff. They are the perfect size for the tractor ram pin. I had to trim 1/4" off each side and then inserted them into the tube and clearanced the tube to clear the ram end. I figured this was alot stronger than a straight butt weld to the end of the tube. Oh, and don't overlook the RuffStuff bling gussets



I am going to be reusing my existing tierod and will not be 100% high steer for now. I am probably gonna build some double-shear-bastardized-semi-high-steer-mess to get it up about 2" from the top of the stock mounting point. Stay tuned for that.

I also found a deal on a set of 35 spline semi float axles for my 9" so decision is made for the rear. It will be going under the knife next; backbrace, shave, armor, 35 spline spool. !
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:32 PM   #46
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Finally got to do a little machine work and parts matchup on my rotor and unit bearing setup. Everyone read this because I am the first that I have seen to do this and one day if you build one of these you will thank me. All of the machine shops selling these seems to do it one way, but I found another easier one that I have not seen anyone else do.

Everyone that I have seen doing the 6 lug 60's is using old 1/2 ton chevy or yota brakes. This requires turning the flange of the hub down a bunch as well as the snout. What I found is that 2004(probably 99 up also) 1/2 ton chevy brake rotors will fit over the outside of the 60 unit bearing flange. So, all you have to do is turn down the snout and bore the rotor. IMHO, this is a much nicer option.

I also found that you can do the machine work without dissassembling the unit bearings. What you have to do is chuck up on the inside of the hub first and turn a flat on the outside since it is tapered. Then use the flat to chuck up for the rest of the machine work. It is tricky, but can be done.

Pics soon..
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:31 PM   #47
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Well I got a couple hours today to pull the 44 and stab the 60 for the first time. It was a good feeling!

The brackets needed just a little adjusting, but in a half hour I had everything tacked in place after it was under. I got really lucky and my tierod is exactly the right length. I have no idea how that happened, but I'll take it.. Ram mount is also going to work nicely and you can see my plan to space up just a little from the top of the knuckle. I will probable add a 1/2 inch plate tabe above the bolt to make it double sheer. I think it would be fine, but double sheer I won't worry about it again. It is gonna be tight on the bumps and air shock location and it looks like one tab will weld to the outer, lower link tab and one to the knuckle at 90 degrees to each other. It will sneak the shock right down behind the bumps like I had them on the 44.

Something is missing.



Oh, got it.


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Old 08-26-2012, 07:07 PM   #48
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Nice !! But I need more details on the pretty gray front end of a muscle car I see there !

Going to take a few guesses;

Not a camaro.
Looks like maybe a challenger or firebird ? Do tell !!!


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Old 08-26-2012, 07:39 PM   #49
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Haha, thanks. That is my street toy that has been severely neglected in the last year since I started wheeling. Its a 69 firebird, 377 chevy(destroked 400) Th350, deep gears...not sure.
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:09 PM   #50
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Nice job for only 30 min! Love the 69 too!
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