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Tin-4: Linked Samurai



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Old 03-25-2013, 03:34 PM   #1
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Tin-4: Linked Samurai

I got this 1988.5 Samurai tin top from a barn. Some family members had bought it almost 10 years ago and not driven it since.

Drove it around stock for a while and imagine I would feel more protected on a motorcycle.

I started collecting parts for a build last summer and put it on jack stands in October.

Back end is now linked and I'm working on a my plans for the front.

I still need to purchase the expensive stuff but I think I have settled on FOA 2" coil overs and trail gear full hydro. Any input here will be appreciated.

Hoping for a really capable trail rig that can plow over mesquite and cactus at the deer lease but I think I should be able to change to some softer tires and bead locks if I catch the crawl bug.

Plans are:
Full width Dana 44 front and rear out of a 78(I think) J10.
5.38 gears
Detroit rear, lock right front
4 link front and rear
Exo cage
37 inch H1 tires on polished AL wheels
2.0 coil overs
Double ended full hydro
Oh...and air conditioning!

More coming soon...
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Last edited by aggielee; 07-01-2013 at 05:36 AM..
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:03 PM   #2
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I'm new to wheeling so I might have a different approach or theories from most. I wanted it street legal and to be a useful hunting rig as well. I made a new bumper for the tail lights that will carry my deer feeder.

Also plan to adapt a high seat to the exo cage to hunt out of.

My design for the rear links and brackets is all in CAD. I designed what would fit, put those measurements in the 4 link calculator then had to re_design.
Here was the gleam in my eye before I committed to ripping it apart.

Rear suspension design
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:41 PM   #3
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I like it!
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:22 AM   #4
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There were several challenges with the rear suspension design that resulted from the goal of keeping the ride height low and retaining most of my interior space.

I had to keep my axle truss short to keep it out if the rear floor and also had to design a fuel cell that would fit behind the axle in the newly extended area of my rear frame. Pictures below are my rear 4 link calculations. Top one is where I think it will work best for trail riding but the second picture is my adjustment that provides the most anti-squat. These are the actual measurements of the finished rear suspension. I know only testing will tell me what works best.

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Old 03-26-2013, 04:19 PM   #5
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This design pushed my rear axle back by 13" and right now the front is designed at 11" forward for a 104" wheel base.
My upper links are 29.75" and the lowers are 36.5" for a ratio of 81.5%.
I would have liked to get a higher roll center and more negative roll axis but this was the best I could do with my constraints.

I finalized the design and ordered parts. The first picture has my CNC plasma parts. Everything in the first pictured delivered to my door for $100. Bolt holes drilled and everything else plasma cut. The second picture is mostly truss parts that were sheared or free hand plasma cut.



While getting ready to weld my truss I realized my rear axle was BENT. Laser line shows how far out. Also shown is my best attempt to straighten. When finished I couldn't tell it was bent using a straight edge or laser. I'll just cross my fingers and hope it doesn’t cause any problems.



I have a couple more posts to bring this build to the present. Then I have some questions about where my focus needs to be next....roll cage, high steer, etc...I'm trying to buy shocks last because FOA only has a 6-month warranty.
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:00 PM   #6
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Looks like a good start. Love the tin top Sammy's...
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:10 AM   #7
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1) Lower link frame brackets
2) Upper link frame brackets
3) Axle with truss and lower brackets / integral shock tabs
4) All the brake and fuel lines have to be relocated



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Old 03-27-2013, 06:34 AM   #8
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Very interesting build.
You seem to have a good idea where your going with the project.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:47 PM   #9
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Have you looked into upgrading the master cylinder to run the bigger calipers?

I used a firebird MC, works great on my big calipers and cost like $16. lol
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:55 PM   #10
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I will have to put the master cylinder upgrade on my list.
MORE PICTURES!....

New shiny wheels and new rubber.


Lower links are 2" OD 1/4" wall DOM with 1-1/4" Johnny Joints
Uppers are 1.5" OD 1/8" wall DOM with 1" thread Johnny Joints




This is where I am at the present and can't decide what to start next.
I am leaning to FOA 2" coilovers and Trail Gear full hydro unless there are reasons for why I should not.
List of things to do in the order that makes sense to me:
1) Exo cage / Front clip
2) Hydro Ram mount / truss for the front axle
3) Front suspension design / install
3a) Figure out how to get upper links to clear oil pan /radiator / exhaust***
4) Shock hoops and coilover install
5) Get accurate corner weights to calculate correct spring rates
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:23 AM   #11
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Not a lot of physical progress but I have been working in the right direction.
1) I finished the stand and hydraulic conversion on my tube bender.

2) Changed some triangulation angles on my rear suspension brackets so I can use them in the front as well. I put the front brackets on order today.

3) Finished designing and ordered my fuel cell today. I can't wait to see this tank built!

4) Removed the knuckles from my front axle to send out for high steer machining.

I still have to order the Trail gear hydro steering kit and get my front truss desingned arount it. I did through in the engine and radiator into my 3D model and I'm still trying to figure out how exactly to fit everything in there.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:53 AM   #12
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I have been putting some thought into my exo cage but I just can't get a design that looks good. Bodie set the bar really high with that cage he put on his sami so I might have some unrealistic expectations. Here is the best I have so far. The empty rendering is below if anyone here is a cage wizzard and wants to draw in some suggestions.



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Old 04-24-2013, 10:32 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by aggielee View Post
Not a lot of physical progress but I have been working in the right direction.
1) I finished the stand and hydraulic conversion on my tube bender.

2) Changed some triangulation angles on my rear suspension brackets so I can use them in the front as well. I put the front brackets on order today.

3) Finished designing and ordered my fuel cell today. I can't wait to see this tank built!

4) Removed the knuckles from my front axle to send out for high steer machining.

I still have to order the Trail gear hydro steering kit and get my front truss desingned arount it. I did through in the engine and radiator into my 3D model and I'm still trying to figure out how exactly to fit everything in there.
I like how you did the bender stand..

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If you need a ladder to work on your rig you might want to re-think your suspension.
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:01 PM   #14
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I like how you did the bender stand..

X2 that's nifty!
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:53 PM   #15
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I'm thinking some curved tubing to match your wheel wells. This would tie in your slider to cage at a second point and hide any rough edges from cutting your fenders?

Looking awesome, keep up the progress!
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:09 PM   #16
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Thanks guys. I'm thinking curved tube to match the fender line as well. That or something more creative on the front clip since there isn't a lot of other options for exo around a tin top.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:37 PM   #17
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Brackets for my front 4 link are here. I stopped by the shop to check on the fuel cell and it's not bent or welded but there is progress.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:19 PM   #18
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Sweet build
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:17 AM   #19
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Got an update on the fuel cell from the shop. They are finishing it up today. These pictures show my pick up tube and baffles / collector.


The welding might not win any awards but I bet it won't leak and it looks 100 times better than me trying to melt aluminum.
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:12 PM   #20
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Tank looked good this morning but they must have welded the top at warp speed because it looks kinda pitiful now. Not the motivation I was needing to make me spend hours this weekend grinding and welding on the build. But hey-custom tank to fit...I'm sure I'll get over the warpage. Leak test tonight.

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Old 05-11-2013, 07:16 PM   #21
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Looking really good so far. On the exo, I think you could do a couple things to dress it up; do something similiar to what Bodie did on the front fender bars, and do a dropped center on the top windshield bar as well as some smallish down drops to create the "meanie face" look from the front.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:51 PM   #22
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On my cage I probably changed it about 10 times, and I still don't think there are more that two bars that I didn't end up changing compared to the design I had in BTP. What about something like this?
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:59 PM   #23
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I'm curious who is building your cell since you don't seem to be happy with it at all. Hopefully it didn't cost tooo much.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:04 PM   #24
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I'm really diggin the blanchered table for a work bench!
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:54 PM   #25
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I like the cage ideas. Bodie knows how to design in some attitude with his tube work. I might try to CAD up the rev 2 design this week and get some more comments.

90'K5, I had the work done through a sheet metal vendor for my work. We agreed on $220 but I haven't seen the invoice yet. They were doing me a favor and seems like a g deal accept for the warpage. No hard feelings they are still my favorite vendor.

Anyways, Got he front upper frame brackets tacked into place and started working on the lowers but I have question for y'all. (below in RED)


Not sure if anyone knows but I have found one place where Suzuki added "beef" to gain strength. It is on the frame exactly where my lowers need to go. Added hours to the process. I thought it would be best to maintain this structural path so I welded back to the plates for my lower links. (the ugliest welds are actually factory welds not mine)


Here is a link to more photos if anyone is interested.
Samurai Photos by ohhhlee | Photobucket

QUESTION:
My lower frame brackets point strait forward with the frame but they would need to point 8 degrees outward to point directly toward the bracket on the axle. Currie says Johnny joints have 30 degrees of rotation so does anyone know if I can get by with this?
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