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Tin-4: Linked Samurai



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Old 07-01-2013, 06:15 AM   #26
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Nothing really to show for the last 6 weeks....but the full hydro kit will be here today!

Used some Ospho to clean up the axles then hit them with a few coats of spray paint and ordered all my break components for the rear drum breaks. I need to buy a couple gear install kits. Looks like I'm going with the G2 brand.

Knuckles are out being machined....had a setback here when talking to Low Range and Bonzparts. I was being told there was a need to install limits on your hydro ram. After some measurements, I found that my waggy 44 and the full width 44 both have a stroke (movement of the tie rod) of 8.5" and the stock arm location is 7.5" from center line (ball joint) of the knuckle. So I am having the arms drilled at 7.25" from center line and should still have ~8.2" of stroke on the knuckles which is .2" more than the cylinder will do. This will make the cylinder limit before my knuckles hit the stops.

I went A.D.D. this week and did hours of research on 1.6L 16valve swap because three different sidekicks came up for sale this week. All running / driving for under $900. I finally shook off that thought but I have it filed away to return after the rig is finished. I'll be keeping an eye out for a running 16valve donor that has the 4-speed auto. The volvo AW71 auto trans swap seems like a sweet setup.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:56 PM   #27
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Alright. Fun packages at the front door when I got home so...today I'm a photographer.

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Old 07-19-2013, 08:20 PM   #28
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90'K5 has a brilliant future90'K5 has a brilliant future90'K5 has a brilliant future90'K5 has a brilliant future90'K5 has a brilliant future90'K5 has a brilliant future90'K5 has a brilliant future90'K5 has a brilliant future90'K5 has a brilliant future90'K5 has a brilliant future90'K5 has a brilliant future
Very nice!!
I didn't see the reservoir/filter combo on the Low Range site. Do they make it?
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:51 PM   #29
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It comes with the trail gear full hydro kit. So its not made by low range.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:04 PM   #30
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The mail man had some goods for me today too! Knuckles machined and new ball joints. Plus high steer arms with stud kit.

Need to get my front truss / ram mount designed now. I'm leaning towards creating a CAD model of a mount to hold the TC style pump and my AC compressor. CNC plasma parts are cheap and much more accurate than my grinding.



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Old 07-30-2013, 11:32 AM   #31
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Got the front truss / ram mount design completed. Taking comments for a couple days but hope to have it on order by the weekend. I did a knock-off Artec for my full width Dana 44. Calculations say 38lbs worth of 3/16" steel plate. This doesn't include filler material, hardware or the ram itself.




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Old 07-30-2013, 11:37 AM   #32
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brent460 is a name known to allbrent460 is a name known to allbrent460 is a name known to allbrent460 is a name known to allbrent460 is a name known to allbrent460 is a name known to all
Looks killer!!
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:03 AM   #33
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Well I'm still playing the waiting game for all of these truss parts. Radiator being drop shipped from Griffin and no sign of it yet. Spacers from jeggs still not here. I did drop off my back axle for powder coat.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:17 AM   #34
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I did get a few parts from mud pro.

This was is my main plate for a bracket that will hold AC compressor and PS pump. My measurements were slightly off so I had to drill out some holes and oval a slot. I will post some confirmed dimensions when I get my spacers.

I decided to start on my rockers since the other parts haven't arrived. Passenger side complete driver has a couple tubes tacked to the frame.


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Old 08-26-2013, 08:57 AM   #35
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datsunmudder is just really happydatsunmudder is just really happydatsunmudder is just really happydatsunmudder is just really happy
Looking good!!
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:48 AM   #36
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One day turn on powder coat! Just picked up my rear axle. Smooth black semi gloss powder.
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:17 PM   #37
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Looks sharp
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:49 AM   #38
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Got some toys in. Then got the front truss tacked on place. You know that feeling when you go to test fit the steering ram and you realizeyou left it at work? So that were the progress stopped.
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Old 09-06-2013, 05:04 AM   #39
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That truss looks killer.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:13 AM   #40
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Been doing a bit little work on the project. I got a new radiator to try and help with the lack of space under the hood. It had to be much shorter to try and accommodate the upper links on my front axle. Problem is I have to ditch my Volvo electric fan now because it is larger than the radiator.



Also, what kind of build would this be without surprises!!! This picture is my camera setting on the front pinion looking towards the T-case output. Problem being -- I CAN'T SEE THE OUTPUT! Below is another view. I think I can fix it my making my links non-adjustable and attaching in the top location.






Most of my work has been focused on the mounting bracket for power steering and AC compressor. I still need to put an idler pulley in there for more contact area around the crank and PS pulley but it is almost done.


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Old 10-20-2013, 04:33 PM   #41
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Between life and being lazy I managed to make some progress. Went to the junk yard Friday at 5 only to find out the Toyota 4-runner I needed to rob a steering shaft from (for Trail Gear hydro setup) had been crushed that morning

I finished the PS / AC bracket and started the roll cage. REV 2 of the roll cage design is below. Ignore the front clip....still have no idea what I'm doing there.




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Old 10-21-2013, 09:15 AM   #42
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So all this talk of master cylinder upgrade has me researching. Sleepsontoilet has the Subaru and Bodie has the Firebird. Looks like Mazda 929 is another option but they are all for 4-wheel disk brakes. I'm keeping my rear drums so is this something I should consider or is the Samurai MC going to work fine?

I'm asking because I notice that the master cylinder for cars with 4-wheel disk is different from the MC for the same car with rear drums.
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:29 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by aggielee View Post
So all this talk of master cylinder upgrade has me researching. Sleepsontoilet has the Subaru and Bodie has the Firebird. Looks like Mazda 929 is another option but they are all for 4-wheel disk brakes. I'm keeping my rear drums so is this something I should consider or is the Samurai MC going to work fine?

I'm asking because I notice that the master cylinder for cars with 4-wheel disk is different from the MC for the same car with rear drums.
Bleed the lines and see, you may not need to change it?

With all the work you're doing, why not upgrade to discs?
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:48 PM   #44
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Kept the drums to reduce the pita factor for the e-brake. I already have the rear axle rebuilt with all new brake parts and all powder coated so no changing now.
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:47 PM   #45
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Any reason you're bracing on the roof runs from the outside of the B pillar to middle of A and C, instead of outside A and C to middle B? Picture putting pressure on the corners, the way you have it wouldn't resist crumpling in a roll.
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Old 10-21-2013, 05:56 PM   #46
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Yes. It's the only way I could think of to get the mean face look. Let me post up another alternative tomorrow. Comments welcome.
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:03 AM   #47
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I could do this with the cage as well. Not sure which would look better.


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Old 10-22-2013, 09:26 AM   #48
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Way better both looks and structural
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:24 AM   #49
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Light technical knowledge: Setup bearings.
Hone them out? NO-WAY!!! I keep reading hone them out but I've never done anything more non-productive. But if you will get a strip of 60 grit sand paper and put it around the hone it can be done in about 15 minutes.


My bracket for the AC and PS was just my best shot with a paper template. It turned out OK but I did have to hog out some holes for it to fit. If anyone wants a reference here it is. NOT EXACT but I did manage to make it work.

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Old 10-25-2013, 08:29 AM   #50
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To make the Samurai steering shaft mate with the Trail Gear Toyota hydro kit the guys at Low Range said to grab a shaft from a Toyota and graft it to the Samurai steering shaft. Below is the Toyota shaft I pulled. I should have grabbed the upper U joint as well.

Something to note: The female splines at location #2 fit the orbital but they also fit the male splines at #5. So if you grab the U joint from under the dash it might work better than using the rag joint / U joint splines.
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