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Old 01-05-2010, 06:13 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by chvyracing08 View Post
no sweat john, im outta town again this morning so maybe this weekend we'll can figure somethin out.
rgr i checked the grounds as well, hell i even removed and cleaned them lol.
have you checked the wires that arn't getting power with a multi meter??..Connecting to the far end and at the fuse box to see if the wire is letting electricty travel through freely...Your wiring harness is alomost as old as me..It could be dry rotted and cracked and grounding out somewhere...Even if the wire does look tore, it can still be broke inside...I dont know what else it could be...
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:01 PM   #27
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zukidave ill check it out, but i dont have windshield wipers or ignition either, im at a dead end now but when i get home im gonna try and trace more wires again, i just dont understand it. the truck has just been sitting last few months, everything worked fine then, i havent changed anything and then it stoped working. and ive already questioned my gf about sabatage because i spend more time with it than her.
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:03 PM   #28
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rgr ill check it out. i unhooked the plug on the column and ran a straight hot to them and things atrted working. i replaced the switch but still no luck when i hooked everything back up.
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:57 PM   #29
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The ignition swith on top of the column could be out of adjustment. Also, if everything was fine and now isnt, try checking ALL of your fuses for corrosion. There is also a 6 prong ground screwed to the inderside of the dash. It's around where the firewall and the driver kick panel meet. Check that for loose or corroded connections.
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:04 PM   #30
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i replaced the switch already just in case only 9 bucks or so. checked the ground as well, even put a shiney new bolt in it. i replaced all of my fuses just incase as well. do you think it could possibly be my fuse box crapped out? me and electrical do not get along.
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:06 PM   #31
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It's possible, but likely it a bad connection somewhere. I hate electrical issues, I'm not an electrical guy eather, but I have owned my 78 Chevy for 14 years and it has taught me alot.
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How much for just the snatch....can`t ever have too much snatch!



There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness.'


1. Misfit Buggy - 4.3/W56/Toy-D300 doubler, full hydro steering, 1 tons and 42's, burnin' pane. Gettin there......

2. The Zombie - Retired

3. The Pig

A dogs philosophy on life:
If you cant eat it or hump it, piss on it and walk away.......
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:08 PM   #32
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i replaced the switch already just in case only 9 bucks or so.
But did you adjust it back and forth to see if it was positioned correctly? That bar has to pull that switch far enough to activate. Any rodents chew wires?
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:09 PM   #33
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i sure hope its just a bad ground im looking over. your tellin me i bought mine when i was 15 only 5 years ago and it makes me feel like im 50. i just dont know what else to look at its like a dead end im never had something on this truck give me this much hell
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:10 PM   #34
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mudslinger i tried that as well, "for about 30 min" still no luck, no sign of rodents usually my dog eats them or i shoot them then feed them to my dog
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:28 PM   #35
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I would get a wiring manual and start following wires...I think your missing a ground(not overlooking it, but someone removed it) on that vehicle that should be there that may have been removed, and maybe the vehicle was grounding itself out for awhile and isnt anymore for what ever reason...Like I said the waggy's have a motor ground, fender ground to the battery, and there is another by the rear tail light area to the frame..Mine ran fine for 6 months missing the fender ground, until the motor ground got a little corroded, then all hell broke loose...I asked around, got an answear, and it was the metal reacting with the alluminum mount on the motor with electricty that cause corrosion..I retachd all grounds..and clean that on spot..and it ran like a champion and my alt. volts gauge was higher when I drove the vehicle...I wish I could answear your question right on the button, but I dont thinnk thats gonna happen..sorry...!!!good luck!!!
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Old 01-07-2010, 03:42 PM   #36
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thanks rgr ill keep checkin, im in my back yard doing this so im gonna wait till it gets above freezing again lol, i work in it all day then i hate to play in it. i know its gotta be something simple i just keep missing it.
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Old 01-08-2010, 06:05 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chvyracing08 View Post
well that was the problem i have had before but fixed it, right now i have no starter but i have the 3 wires that go to the starter clamped direct to the pos on the battery " as it is sitting for now" i am going to get a new starter tommarow and get all my wires ran and see what she does, just put a new alt on it and got it wired in tonight, ill do the starter tommarow and post my results
Question: Why would you have the three wires that go to the starter hooked directly to the battery? The starter only receives power from those lines momentarily to engage the solenoid. After the truck is started, those lines are isolated, so that there is no constant power going to it. The ignition switch closes the circuit to allow the engagement of the starter. I fear you have fried your fuse panel by giving it constant voltage to areas not equipped to receive it.

I may be wrong. Tell me, has your battery been drained down any, or still good to go?
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:54 AM   #38
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Manny....the larger wires are ALWAYS hot. They run directly to the battery. Only the little wire goes to the solenoid to activate it by the key.


Not sure what else to tell you to look for. Hope you get it figured out. I'm sure it's very simple. Good luck.
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:59 AM   #39
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Manny....the larger wires are ALWAYS hot. They run directly to the battery. Only the little wire goes to the solenoid to activate it by the key.


Not sure what else to tell you to look for. Hope you get it figured out. I'm sure it's very simple. Good luck.
That's strange, because I have a lead directly from the battery to my starter, whereas the others are directly to the solenoid. The only line going to the battery directly is from the alternator itself. The alternator then goes into the wiring harness through the internal regulator. That's why I stated that putting all posts to the battery directly may have caused an issue. My harness wires to the solenoid are not energized until the key is turned to crank the starter and completes the circuit.
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:00 PM   #40
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well guys i couldnt handle it anymore so i ripped out the wiring harness fuse box and all, got me another one from an 87 will be winging it in tommarow.
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:07 PM   #41
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the electrical god has spoken!!!
i put a complete different harness from the 87 and it worked like a dream. i dont know what it was maybe i overlooked a wire but its fixed now.
guys thanks for all the help.
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Old 01-09-2010, 06:57 PM   #42
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Good for you! Did you inspect your old harness. Guaranteed you fried something when you hooked those leads directly to the battery. You should either see it, smell it, or both. Glad it worked out for you.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:19 PM   #43
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meeee tooo huge load off my shoulders. i havent looked yet but it sure dont look pretty. lots of mud and dust caked all around it so im sure its bad corrosion or somethin of that matter.
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