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Brakes in a Toyota after a One Ton swap



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Old 01-25-2011, 02:46 PM   #1
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Brakes in a Toyota after a One Ton swap

Mid last year I decided to go One Tons in my 1980 LWB Toyota 4x4. The swap was rather straight forward. Other then making a wider drop hanger for the front, off-set shackles and welded new spring perches on the rear 14 bolt. I was left with BRAKES!!!

For the rear 14 bolt. I did the disk brake conversion. Although, I bought the brackets from a club member...I do beleive they are from Ruff stuff. THey are the bent brackets that dont need spacers and bolt right in.
You can see the bracket here with the front dana 44 caliper and rotor installed.

After installing the 14 bolt. I got a feel how I wanted to run my brake lines.
I made a small tab to mount the brake line off the caliper onto the spring plate. They are front stock Dana 44 brake lines. most use 1979 chevette because they are shorter. Being that I didn't want to wait three days to get them in. I opt for these. Something lik $18 a peace. I also made the tab and welded on the housing to supprt the end of the soft line. The hard lines are made out of 3/16" I picked up 25' at advance out parts for $25. I used a double flare tool to flare the custom lines. Rastus informed be that the tool used in my Project was from Autozone "Loaner tool". Thanks again Rastus for that Info.
Driver side

passenger side.

I used Chevy rear stock center "T" section with hose. I placed it center of the diff. The reason behind that. Is when the rearend flexs side to side. Not much slack is taken out of the center. If it was at full droop on both sides is when the slack will come out. Cheap but effective. The fittings are standard chevy stuff I got from PNP. At the top of the picture. You can see I ran a new 3\16 brake line center of the diff. I also cut off the original bracket that holds the brake line to the far right and mounted in the center. Use what you got. One less tab to buy or make.

From the rear I ran the new brake line along the frame rail like the original one. I did have to remove my gas tank to get to the support brackets that held the line in place. My original brake proportinal valve is not used. It ends at this Elbow fitting. The Diff side was standard Chevy stuff and I double flared this end with Toyota fitting.

The original line comes over the brake booster and I installed a Low Range adjustable Brake proportional valve for rear brakes.

From the adjustable valve I ran it to the front of the Master cyl. I recall the Master cyl being from a 1985 3/4 ton 4x4. 1 1/8" bore.

To install my 3/4 ton Master cyl. I made a adapter. A drill and hole saw was used. I first made the template out of a cereal box. Then transfered it over to 1/4" steel plates.
Not perfect but it works.

Not shown but I welded the bolt heads to the plate before I installed it. The center Rod was adjusted out maybe 1/4" not much. I also used ATV between the plates and master cyl. That took care of that.

Now that the rear is out of the way. I moved on to the front.
Brake lines had to be ordered. These were a little more exspensive.$50 for the pare.
I started by Removing the oringinal Hard lines and "T" fitting that was under the original master cyl. Nothing original for the front is going to be used. I left the tabs on the frame in place. I will be using the passenger side one later on in my write up.
I ran the original dana 60 brake lines to a tab I made that bolts onto the "U" bolt. You may want to place it else where. I'm fine how I did mine.
Passenger side. The driver side looks the same way.

Here you can see the bracket I made with the Clip to hold it in place.

I then ran 3/16" hard lines around the spring plate along the top of the axle tube. The coil gaurd I took from the 14 bolt oringinal hard line. After bending and flaring one side. I slipped it over the tube and then put my fitting on and double flared the other end. Using Chevy standard fittings for a 3/16" line.
You can also see the tabs welded on the axle tube to hold the lines in place.
Driver side.

passenger side

both hardlines end up at a brass "T" fitting on top of the diff.
A little creative. I had to make a bracket to hold the fitting in place.
You can also see the small adapter I made to go from Standard chevy stuff to Metric. I used one of my exstended brake lines from my Toyota set up.

From their it goes up to the original tab on the passenger side frame rail.

I ran a new 3/16 line from the bracket to the master cyl. The original had a few loops in it. So I did the same by rapping it around a 1 3/4" peace of tube I had laying around after I put my fitting on and double flared this end. It did take some time to route it along the fire wall Like the original one. Doable but time consuming. Their are a few things that need to be removed to route it. I'm sure you can figure that out. nothing major.
I had mine go around the brake booster like the stock one. Brown colored one in picture.

From their I threaded it into the rear port of the Master cyl. I could not find the proper fittng that was for a 3/16 brake line. So I sleeved the tube to get the slack out of the fitting. The sleeve itself is double flared. I put my fitting on then the sleeve and double flared the 3/16 line. Maybe not the best picture or idea but it works for me.

in this picture you can see the sleeve sticking out about 1\8th of a inch. I got the fitting and tube from PNP. I cut it off about three inches long so that I can go back and cut it shorter with my tube cutter.

I was playing around with the Idea of doing it this way for a Trail Rig only. But after seeig that Dodge did this set-up factory. I felt it was safe enough for me. Also running a single exstended brake line off the diff keeps the brake lines away from the tires. Better this way and not have to try and keep them off the tires like I did when I had my Yoda axles.
I bleed the brakes and adjusted the Brake proportinal valve. I have a little more front brakes then rear.
I know my spelling isn't the greatiest but this is my write up for you toyota guys wanting to run One Tons and figuring out how to run Brakes.
My future is to run T-case drive line Emergence Brakes.
Any questions please feel free to post up or PM for specs or currections. I'll do my best to get more information on fitting sizes.
I've been running this set up for about 3-4 months now with no issues. I've clocked over 1500 miles sense then. So far everything is working great rain or shine.

Thanks,

Disclamer: Intended for off road use only.
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Last edited by mnmstoy; 01-25-2011 at 06:23 PM..
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:45 PM   #2
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Good write up!!!
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:13 AM   #3
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Great thread!!
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:35 AM   #4
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Great thread!!
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:33 AM   #5
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Good stuff Mike!
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