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Jana76



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Old 02-01-2013, 07:31 PM   #1
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Jana76

This will take a couple days to wrap up since I have a four year old and a wife that seem to think they need me part of the day.

I got tired of blowing front Dana 60 ring and pinions, so I called Carl up at Jantz Engineering and bought the Jana76 kit and Load Bolt. When I tore into the 60, I found that I grenaded my Dana 60 Detroit, so I picked up an open Dana 70 carrier. It doesn't matter what gear the carrier is for because Carl send you an offset carrier bearing. Depending on what carrier you have, determines what side of the carrier the offset bearing goes.

The pics below are where I'm at right now. We turned the 70 carrier down to 8.790" for the Load Bolt clearance. Carl says 8.800 +/- .020", so we are well within spec. You do have to grind the housing in a couple places to clear the pinion and ring gear, which I will be doing tonight and post pics later.

I went with a Motive gearset from Drivetrain America. It cost me $160 shipped.


In these two pics, you can see the size difference.




Ring and pinion. The 60 still has the slinger and bearing.


You need to polish the back side of the ring gear so the Load bolt has a smooth surface to ride. You don't have to take any material off, just clean it up with a scuffing disc.



More to come...
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:54 PM   #2
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Sub'ed for sure. This is going to be a cool set up for sure !! Good work so far bud !!
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:59 PM   #3
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Looks like a cool project!
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:30 PM   #4
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:15 PM   #5
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Awesome project.

but..Still curious why you are blowing 60 gears..
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:25 PM   #6
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:31 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 90'K5 View Post

but..Still curious why you are blowing 60 gears..
4 5 4..........
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:54 PM   #8
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4 5 4.......... Strpot
no



....
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90'K5 View Post
Awesome project.

but..Still curious why you are blowing 60 gears..
Beer and too much throttle.

To ensure you have enough clearance for the 70 ring, you have to mark the housing so you know where to grind. Carl gives you a 3/8" ball on a stick. Put grease on it and where it hits the housing, grind. So, I marked it out and ground the top, bottom and rear of the housing. Near the pinion, you have to grind the oil land off. Word to the wise, find a sucker to do the grinding. After about 10-15 minutes I was done, but my nose is on fire and bleeding. Grinding cast iron sucks!

Now that the housing will fit the 70 ring gear, I can start setting up the gears. Once that is done, I'll work on the Load Bolt install.





Here you can see the carrier machined down and the ring gear polished where the Load Bolt will ride. At final fit, I will have to clearance the bolt heads on the ring gear.


Clearanced housing.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:25 PM   #10
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:38 PM   #11
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Actually it wound up at 8.799 on the carrier but what is .01 between friends.
































If they are both machinists it is a lot.
Get it right ******. Lol
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:27 AM   #12
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So what does the Jana kit cost? Just wondering what it would be compared to doing a front 14 bolt.

Nice work fellas!
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:11 AM   #13
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So what does the Jana kit cost? Just wondering what it would be compared to doing a front 14 bolt.

Nice work fellas!
I have $700 into it, not counting the ring and pinion.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:48 AM   #14
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I have been wondering how the load bolt setup works, and now it is all clear. They use that setup in pulling tractors and I actually know a local machinist that has done them on Dana 80's in pulling trucks. He was calling it something else, but its the same thing. I think he was using two bolts and some kind of hard plastic block between them to ride on the gear. Very curious to see pictures of it installed.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:06 AM   #15
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Look @ the true high 9 third member, they incorporate a load bolt as well! It is amazing to think that big ring gear would flex enough to touch the load bolt! I love fukin science!
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:07 AM   #16
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I saw this write up in crawl a couple years ago. Looked like a cool idea and setup. I just couldn't imagine grenading 60 r&p. Haha
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:09 AM   #17
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Look @ the true high 9 third member, they incorporate a load bolt as well! It is amazing to think that big ring gear would flex enough to touch the load bolt! I love fukin science!
The flex is in the carrier I believe...
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:19 AM   #18
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Acording to Carl, the flex is in the carrier. All I know is this setup is pretty beefy. The load bolt setup is pretty cool. After I get done modifying the housing for the ring/pinion I'll move onto the load bolt install. Too many projects going at once this weekend to get much more progress from where I left off Friday. I hope to get back on it this afternoon for a while.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:00 PM   #19
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To fit the larger pinion and bearing, you have to clearance the housing so the step race will fit. You have to grind the step down to 3.300". Once you have it clearanced and you verify the race will clear, coat the race and the lip with the provided epoxy. Be sure to have everything ready, because the epoxy sets in about five minutes. Tap the race in and once it's close to being seated, put the pinion in, with a well greased bearing. There is a spacer provided to put between the yoke and bearing. At this point you will not include any preload shims, just .020 under the pinion head bearing. Tighten the yoke down till you can't turn it with one hand, but can with two. Tap the head of the pinion with a punch and re-tighten the yoke. Do this until the race is seated completely and then let it sit for 20 minutes. Once you're done, you can clean up and set up the gears as you normally would.

Here you can see the step that has to be ground.


Here is the step bearing. I colored it with a sharpie so I could see if it had enough clearance, before using the epoxy. If after you knock it in place and pull it and any of the sharpie is removed, you have more grinding to do.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:05 PM   #20
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The step, is to get the race deep enough into the housing??
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:12 PM   #21
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The step, is to get the race deep enough into the housing??
Yes. Since the 70 ring is larger, the pinion has to be sucked back into the housing further. The step race is how that's achieved. The step in the pic is where the original 60 race stopped.
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:45 AM   #22
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We welded up the spiders last night. I'll do the final gear setup today and get started on the Load Bolt. More to follow later.

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Old 02-15-2013, 09:01 AM   #23
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That weld job looks like what I did. Mine tryed to jump off the table and bite me when some tension let loose and a weld cracked. Scared the crap outta me. After I had a to calm down I welded the crack back up.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:01 AM   #24
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One thing I forgot to mention is to install the provided spacer that goes behind the outer pinion bearing. Because the pinion is moved away from the original center line, the outer race has to move the same amount.

Gears are set, pinion preload is set. Instead of your normal thrust washer, Carl provides a lip seal spacer, that goes between the yoke and bearing.
More on the load bolt after I get the pics uploaded.

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Old 02-17-2013, 08:30 AM   #25
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Now for the Load Bolt. This is a very simple install, just make sure you measure a few times before you make your first hole in the housing. When using a Jana 76 kit in a 60 housing, measure back 6.5" from the face of the pinion housing. Then find centerline of the pinion and make a mark. You want your marks to be pretty long so you can watch while you drill and grind that the hole stays on center.

Start with a pilot hole, the drill a hole with a 1/2" step bit, then jump to a 7/8" step bit.


The install tool has an aluminum plate that bolts to the carrier. Put that on and install the carrier into the housing with the jig facing the front of the housing. Line it up with the hole to ensure you are on track.

The angle is off in the pic, but here I have started grinding the hole larger. You'll end up with a hole close to or just over one inch. You do have to grind some of the lip for the bung to line up properly.


Once the bung has enough clearance, use the supplied setup bolt and slotted washer to hold the bung in place. The bung has a slot that just clears the carrier. You need to rotate it each direction from stop to stop and then split the difference so the slot on the bung will be centered on the carrier. The slotted washer goes between the bung and supplied jig bracket. This ensures the bung has the right amount of clearance off the ring gear. Once you have it where you want it, heat the housing and tack the bung in place.

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