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Old 02-17-2013, 08:41 AM   #26
Gonzo Wheeler
 
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Now you can remove the setup bolt and carrier to weld the inside and outside.



I left the setup bolt in the bung in order to keep any bb's out of the threads.


Once it cools, you need to run a tap through the bung to ensure the threads are perfectly clean. You need to be able to thread the load bolt in and out the entire way by hand easily. Now you can clean up, reinstall the ring gear and put the carrier back in.
Here you can see where the load bolt will ride.


You need to check the runout of the ring gear and ensure you have no more than .020 variance. If you do, then find the high side and smooth it down until you're within spec. I lucked out and had less than .020" runout on mine. Now coat the back side of the ring gear with a light coat of oil. Run the load bolt all the way down to where it hits the ring gear. Now the fun part, back it off 1/16 of a turn so you have roughly .030-.035" clearance between the load bolt and ring gear. It's not that difficult once you look at it for a bit. Tighten the lock nut, while not disturbing your setting. Now you're done!

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Old 02-17-2013, 08:43 AM   #27
Gonzo Wheeler
 
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All I have left to do is clearance the Ruff Stuff cover and put the axles back together and fill with oil. If you have a stock cover, it will need a lot of modification to clear the ring gear, but the Ruff Stuff only takes minor grinding. While I had it apart, I put new Spicer, inner axle seals in.
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Fawker Fab 3 seater Buggy - Buster II
498 Stroker BBC/pane/465/Fawker Fab Doubler/One Tons/Detroits/Chromos/Longfields/16" FOA Coilovers/18" air shocks/one link/three link/42" PBR's and lots of throttle.

When all else fails, give it hell.

Push it to the Limit with RevLimit Off Road!
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:47 AM   #28
Wheels 4 Food
 
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pain in the ***. looks pretty cool though. is the load bolt necessary?
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:51 AM   #29
Gonzo Wheeler
 
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There are a lot of steps and yes, at times it was a pain. It's not a difficult install, just tedious at times. The Load Bolt is not necessary, but is great insurance. Especially after I just dropped $900 in the kit, gears, etc...The load bolt will keep down any deflection and have a much less chance of stripping the ring/pinion. Assuming you set the gears up properly.
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Fawker Fab 3 seater Buggy - Buster II
498 Stroker BBC/pane/465/Fawker Fab Doubler/One Tons/Detroits/Chromos/Longfields/16" FOA Coilovers/18" air shocks/one link/three link/42" PBR's and lots of throttle.

When all else fails, give it hell.

Push it to the Limit with RevLimit Off Road!
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:15 PM   #30
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Nice work. Thanks for detailing. I hope I dont ever need to do this, but with a 60 rear there is a fair chance.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:00 PM   #31
Gonzo Wheeler
 
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Thanks man!

I only had to take off about a 1/16"-1/8" in two places on the cover.


I had to pull things apart today, so I snapped a pic of the load bolt as installed and set.


One thing to note. Depending on what carrier you use, you may have to take some length off the long side axle shaft. Carl says .250" is what normally works. I started with that on mine and had to go just over .30 so everything would fit right at the hub. Out of the whole project, cutting the axle down was the worst part for me. Especially since I spent the coin on chromo shafts.
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Fawker Fab 3 seater Buggy - Buster II
498 Stroker BBC/pane/465/Fawker Fab Doubler/One Tons/Detroits/Chromos/Longfields/16" FOA Coilovers/18" air shocks/one link/three link/42" PBR's and lots of throttle.

When all else fails, give it hell.

Push it to the Limit with RevLimit Off Road!
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:58 PM   #32
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The only thing id be concerned with is gear oil being able to make it back to the pinion since its so cramped around the ring gear. Im going all 70's and never looking back.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:22 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HD SCOUTII View Post
The only thing id be concerned with is gear oil being able to make it back to the pinion since its so cramped around the ring gear. Im going all 70's and never looking back.
At speed oil is splashing violently. Crawling the nose will be up most of the time which will keep the pinion submersed. I fail to see the problem there.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:49 AM   #34
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:43 AM   #35
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:31 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunker Buster View Post

One thing to note. Depending on what carrier you use, you may have to take some length off the long side axle shaft. Carl says .250" is what normally works. I started with that on mine and had to go just over .30 so everything would fit right at the hub. Out of the whole project, cutting the axle down was the worst part for me. Especially since I spent the coin on chromo shafts.
Does jantz recommend a particular oil or overfill? Guess I could ask him. Im not knocking the mod at all. im just a worrywort.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:53 AM   #37
Gonzo Wheeler
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HD SCOUTII View Post
Does jantz recommend a particular oil or overfill? Guess I could ask him. Im not knocking the mod at all. im just a worrywort.
He suggests 90 wt for break-in and then 75/140. I run 85/140 myself. He says for rock racing or desert racing to usw SRT250.
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Fawker Fab 3 seater Buggy - Buster II
498 Stroker BBC/pane/465/Fawker Fab Doubler/One Tons/Detroits/Chromos/Longfields/16" FOA Coilovers/18" air shocks/one link/three link/42" PBR's and lots of throttle.

When all else fails, give it hell.

Push it to the Limit with RevLimit Off Road!
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