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Hydrolic Ram Assist (CHEVY)

7K views 32 replies 16 participants last post by  SKULL CRUSHER 
#1 · (Edited)
Here we go thought I would share my Ram assist set up with yall that I have going on the truck Sunday. Came out to only 183.00 bucks
Just thought it would help out a fellow wheeler looking to do ram assist.
Power steering pump is still stock and plan on drilling it out for more pressure.
Pictures and photos of the install coming Soon.:toast:
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Got my hydrolic ram From Dalton hydrolic cylinders, from ebay for 62.99 with shipping. (((4 Year Warrenty))) 2" bore 8" strock tie-rod set up.
www.daltonhydrauliccylinders.com
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Hoses and fitting the Northen Tools 50. bucks total
www.northerntools.com

3/8 48" hose 12.99 a hose

Fitting are 2.99 and 3.99 each
part# B80 1/4" Male pipe x 1/4" male pipe. 2 Each (Connect to steering box)
part# A18 3/8" male pipe x 1/4" female pipe swivel 90* 2 each (Connect to steering box)
part# E20 3/8" female pipe x 3/8" female pipe 2 each (Connects line to swivel 90)
part# G16 3/8" male pipe x 3/8 female pip 90* 1 fitting (Connect to Ram Cylinder)


cheapest way i found other places wanted up to 15bucks a fitting.

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Tapped gear box, From BOWTIE. Thanks man :budlight::budlight::budlight:
50 bucks
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and some Brackets from a metal shop Down the road from ORR
25 bucks.
hacck 3x3" 1" thick and 1" hole in 45 second wish i had recorded it lol.

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Here are some pics jamminzz





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The Installe

1st I installed the steering gear box and the hydrolic hoses to the ram and gear box, and added fluid and made sure nothing was leaking the ram was working in the correct direction i turn the tire.


2nd I Cut the bracket on the driver's side of the axle cuz it would be in the way of the ram assist.

make sure you cut it all off like this




3rdI installed the first tab to the axle near the edge of the pumpkin in a angle and tacked welded It, top and bottom



4th I turned the tire all the way driver and lined up the ram and tab to the steering link It was a little to long and had to thread it down. I ended up cutting 2" off the ram so it would be correct lenght and would fit inside the tab.



Make sure you grind it to fit the the link like this for a better weld


5th After i made sure everything was well and turn correctly i welded the tabs to the axle and the drive link




 
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#4 ·
straight then to 90 that i can point in any direction and then tighten down.
We stayed at northen for about 45 min to hour going threw ever fitting they had lol, thanks for everything bowtie really helps me out bro.
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
lol Thanks man i new i saw this somwhere and have been searching.
Im gonna run it stock and see how she does, then maybe do this thanks dott.

Ill keep yall posted with pics and maybe some video of this swap. Peace out.
 
#9 ·
Awesome, i just got it installed the other day and my truck feels great. I should have done this a long long long time ago. Also got the Front Welded up and now im fully locked all around. Pics and video of it in action coming soon.

ps. Jimmy6.2 i took some good pics of the install and have some good info to share ill post it up need week after i get som video. Peace out man.
 
#16 ·
hey skull crusher how much lift do you have? i am looking at doing this exact setup but i dunno if my truck is too high or low for the length hoses. just a k10 with 10"
 
#17 ·
:toast:I was running a 6" rough country spring up front minus one spring, and a 4.5 inch custom flat bar shackle. I was prob around 5 5.5 inch's of lift buddy. Same in the rear. I ran them kinda long for flexing reason, i could have gone a little shorter. Best thing to do is to get a fake wrope or fuel line, whatever you got laying around and just lay it were you want it to go and measure it, give yourself a couple more inchs for flexin and down drop, if you gonna be flexin out.rockonn
 
#18 ·
Dirty, you have any binding or bowing of the drag link when the DS droops? I like it being high and out of the way, but it looks like it would be pushing almost perpendicular at full droop.
 
#19 ·
true true yjman. With the flexy spring im gonna be useing up front i gotta watch out for something like that. Im prob gonna end up welding to my truss up top and welding to the high steer tie rod, not the drag link. :toast:
 
#26 ·
This is how im set up now, =0) Worked out Great just wheeled it AT katemcy k-2 Only thing im gonna change is put 90 Degree elbows on the Ram to get more clearance dont like how it sticks out. =0)

 
#27 ·
I'm just running it on the axle to the stock tie rod location. This isn't a rock crawler, just a hunting/trail ring for fun. I run full hydro on my serious stuff.
 
#28 ·
Your steering looks great. but.... what's going to happen when the front spring blocks get spit out? Are they @ least welded somehow?strpot

 
#30 ·
I did not know they existed...wow.....I see a block under the front spring I get nervous.....L
 
#32 ·
Ya, I guess I need to keep up with todays products..I'm stuck in a time warp with these darn coilovers......Skullcrusher your loveing the hydro assist I'm sure..jamminzz.L
 
#33 · (Edited)
Yes sr. Landies buddy it is a world of diff from my old dana 44 set up and hydro. Worked hard trying to get the Dana 60 and keeping hte high steering and getting the steering all right. The blocks are bolted to the leave spring back and also got a pinion Degree shim thats bolted to it also to fix the pinion angle, Also came with a set up for the Pumpkins side that let sit flush, and won't come lose like a normal degree shim set up.
 
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