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2001 dodge diesel programmers



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Old 12-27-2011, 10:53 PM   #1
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2001 dodge diesel programmers

So my dad has a dang near bone stock 24 valve 2001 cummins dodge diesel with automatic transmission. He loves the truck as he should as it is spotless and just an awesome piece of work! It has way less than 100,000 even I believe.

What I wanna know is what programmer is best out there for 50 to 100 extra horses or just some extra get up and go. Something that wouldn't hurt that auto too much as I know you can't add too much with that auto. My dad only tows every once in a while with it and he never really hotrods it. He just wants some extra oomph to make the truck a little more fun and just in case he needs it. My dad likes to think ahead haha.........

Crappy picture of the truck.....................
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:59 AM   #2
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i have the edge EZ on my 01 3/4 ton and have it set to tow mode all the time. it has 3 settings and you have to manually change them on the programmer under the hood.
i am thinking of getting another one for the dually.
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Old 12-28-2011, 07:00 AM   #3
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I suggest the Edge EZ or Attitude(with juice) or any of the bullydog line. I have bunch of friends with 99-06 Dodges and those are pretty much what everyone either buys first, or upgrades to later!!
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:03 AM   #4
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So after reading some more about diesels ( I don't know jack about diesels) a lot of people are saying the lift pump should be replaced with aftermarket no matter what if a programmer is used. Now we know the old man that owned this truck before had it replaced (he had everything listed on a piece of paper that had ever been replaced) but we don't know if its stock or aftermarket or what? So what do you cummins gurus think?
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Old 12-28-2011, 01:01 PM   #5
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Group those that say you HAVE to replace the lift pump with those who say you have to have one-tons to wheel. If you are going to be running your truck at the track, then sure replace it. If you have less than 100,000 miles and he isn't going to hot-rod it or do truck pulls, he will be fine with what he has.

Replace it with aftermarket if/when it craps out (more than likely the truck will fall apart before that happens).

The guys I know with 5.9L's like the Edge EZ, but I would recommend getting gauges (pyro, boost and tranny temp). If he is interested and only want to run two guages I have a dual pillar pod from my old 00 Dodge.
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Old 12-28-2011, 07:42 PM   #6
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Thanks Bigger........we'll chance it and just run a programmer........not sure which one yet. Let my dad decide that I suppose. My dad does already have all the gauges so no biggie there.
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:11 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by offroadman83 View Post
thanks bigger........we'll chance it and just run a programmer........not sure which one yet. Let my dad decide that i suppose. My dad does already have all the gauges so no biggie there.
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:58 PM   #8
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When I had my 98.5, I ran an edge ez. It definitely help it move out of it's way. There wasn't a programmer for it at that time. I recall Smarty has one out. I'm not to familiar with how well they work.

Most folks w/ vp44 will run an aftermarket lift pump system so they don't risk taking out the injection pump when stock lift pump goes. Even the intank pump has not been very reliable. Since Dad has gauges, he doesn't have to worry about that.

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Old 12-29-2011, 11:35 AM   #9
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I have owned several of these trucks and done programmers, lift pumps, plumbing, tranny, and VP44 changeouts(from failures) and for upgrade purpose.

The skinny on programmers and the stock auto is that you have to be very careful. What you will probably find is that when you add a programmer it will start to have tranny, or more specifically converter, flare in overdrive. My 01 did this with only a Diablo Power Puck at around 60HP. My transmission died shortly after and I did a middle grade rebuild. The problem was still there a little bit even with an upgraded converter and shift kit. However, bumping line pressure fixed this and it lived happily until I sold it.

On the lift pump, they will fail....and I wheel on D44's. The problem is that the VP44 takes "chugs" of fuel rather than a steady supply. This is due to the internal supply pump in the VP44. So, the check valve in the little Carter lift pump cycles without out stop every minute the engine is running. What happens to this pump is the valve wears out and sticks which starves the VP44 and theoretically can cause a failure. There are two ways to fix this. Replumb the system so that there is a constant flow through the lift pump by installing a bypass line and regulator or upgrade to a gear pump with a better valve system that will live. At the very least you need to monitor fuel pressure ot the VP44. There are tapped banjo bolts available for this. You can use an 8psi dummy switch and small led on the dash. Consensus is that 8psi is sufficient. In summary, it is not a flow issue on the lift pump in most situations, but rather an application issue. Some guys use a dummy light and keep a spare pump in the tool box. However, the in tank pump is a total fail, so hopefully it did not get that "upgrade" from dodge.

I would vote for the quadzilla on the programmer because it can monitor a bunch of stuff on the engine and transmission as well as do defueling for high EGT. It also has a warm up mode so you cant romp on it until its up to temp. You can do changes on the fly and custom tunes as well. The custom tuning would be good for a factory tranny; a big problem is line pressure at low throttle. What all of these programmers do is increase fuel at part throttle so it is more responsive feeling. This means the tranny gets more power without the needed line pressure changes since they are TV pressure regulated. With a custom tune you can hold off the fuel until a higher throttle position so line pressure on the tranny is up. Never tested this, and it is my own little idea, but I know that it is possible with quadzilla custom tune. It is also capable of around 400HP and 800lb of torque on stock injectors at full tilt once you get the tranny rebuilt to hold it. That seems like it would be fun.

In the end the cummins with a big programmer is a transmission killer unless you really build a nice one. But, if you take it easy and dont drive it like you stole it they can live for a while.

BTW, did that truck come from Stephenville? There was one just like it that had 60k on the clock around here for the last 6 months for sale.

Last edited by Turbos10; 12-29-2011 at 11:43 AM..
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:33 PM   #10
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I have all kinds of goodies on mine including the quadzilla adrenaline with pulse monitor. Honestly if I had it to do over I would buy manual gauges with a smarty or rv275 injectors. The quadzilla is just not reliable enough. Always having to unplug it for it to work sometimes. Also if you just put the marine injectors in. The truck as a whole stays stock and your not tapping wires, shooting to much voltage to the injection pump. And crap like that. The quadzilla already fried one for me. A 1200 dollar setback. When it fried the computer on the pump from a voltage spike. Sent it to industrial diesel for autopsy. At first I would say EXHAUST that's the best of the upgrades I've ever done. Then get the dummy fuel press light or gauges. So you can have a warning before you have to buy a pump.
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Old 12-30-2011, 09:20 AM   #11
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You can run the quad untapped. That is how I had mine. I never had to reset anything. I had one issue with it being flaky and it was a grounding issue that was an easy fix. It was used when I got it and it worked perfectly other than the buttons on the monitor not working great, which was fixed in later models. I do think the smarty is good too, but I have never used on. I used a power puck with no issues also.

I have to also say that a full exhaust is a waste of time, effort, and money unless you want a loud truck or you are planning to go over 350HP. The factory three inch with muffler delete or a performance muffler will flow all the air the HX35 can support. I know there are a bunch of websites saying otherwise, but it is just bad information.

I ran a TV71 Garrett, more than a 5.9 cummins could think about even spooling, on a 408cid gas turbo engine with 3.5" exhaust. There is no need for this 4-5" exhaust all over the place out there unless you like the sound. I ran a short piece of 4 inch from the turbo to allow flow to become more linear and then necked down to 3.5. That was for 600HP.

As a side note I have built multiple ground up turbo engines and done the math to see what is actually needed on tube size. 3.5" will flow enough for over 500HP(700 tops) and 4" will cover you to 700(and more). Both of which are putting you out of the HX35 by a long way.
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Old 01-18-2012, 12:02 PM   #12
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First off its best to have gauges. Especially a tranny temp since its an auto. Second, no programmer or tuner or anything will make more than about 60 extra hp without tapping the pump wire. And exhaust is a great way to go, it helps a whole lot with getting the heat of the exhaust away from the turbo which helps keep it cool. I run the edge comp box and i love it. Extremely simple. I also have A smarty which is even easier. It has a sheet with the levels on it and you just plug it into the obd port in the truck and hit a few buttons and your makin power. Injectors make a huge difference and you can get them really cheap for 24 valves. Esspecially if you just want a little added power. There are really a lot of different ways to go about gettin a little more power. It all really just depends on you to decide. Hop on cummins forum and look around on there and it will help a lot too.

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Old 01-19-2012, 12:15 PM   #13
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Before you do any programer on that truck. Add a fuel psi gauge. This is your insureance on not burning up your injection pump. Buy starving it on fuel. You can get them as package deals for $150 to $200 from diesel vendors. On other sites.
I did mine 4 years ago. And was putting a stock lift pump on every 2 months.
Anything over 65hrp chip your going burn the tranny up. Hell they cant hold up to stock power very long.



I have a 01 2500/QC/auto with 208,000 bought it with 43,000miles.. I have a Edge EZ on it. With a magnaw flow stock replacement muffler. Ive pulled all over the place, i drive the truck 75 miles around trip to work everyday. I get bewteen 19 to 23 mpg. i run stock tires 245-75-16 and run no high then 2100 rpm on the highway. After 2100 rpm"s if burns alot of fuel. Now about to rebuild my auto in it. But its on its last leg and it only has a vavle body in it. My rig and trailer weight 7000lbs, dot scales. I get 12 to 15mpg out of it loaded.
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:06 PM   #14
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Before you do any programer on that truck. Add a fuel psi gauge. This is your insureance on not burning up your injection pump. Buy starving it on fuel.
Good advice whether you mod or not!
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:24 PM   #15
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Step one is gauges. Possibly a Bd cool down timer, then I would recommend smarty or smarty jr for safe programming. Just my opinion.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:16 AM   #16
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I agree with everyone on the gauges first you can kill a vp44 fast and not even realize your doing it (been there). I like the edge ez it was what I had at first very dependable and cool running and if you need alittle more RV275's are a great choice you can get complete brand new bosch injectors $250 a set. Have fun!
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:22 PM   #17
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Buy a Comp Box, and if you want to avoid alot of problems, buy a nice aftermarket fuel system.

Throw a transgo shift kit in the trans, it will help it live a whole lot longer, and they are under $100.
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