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305 vs 350 cubic inches



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Old 02-23-2005, 02:54 PM   #1
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305 vs 350 cubic inches

I know the saying..."there's no replacement for displacement", but I want to know how much better a 350 really is.

I've had 350 chevy's for years, but it was always a REALLY hopped up 350 in my truck or car. NEVER in this heavy @ss K5.

I have a 1984 K5 Blazer and I think I want to ditch the 305 and install a 350, but 1st I want to know if it will really be worth the swap.

My 305 is bored .30 over, has a mild cam, headman headers, Holly 650 carb, and runs EXCELLENT. It has 26K miles on it and it is a VERY dependable engine. I just feel like I need more power.

I can't even spin the tires on dry pavement. Can a 350 spin 35" tires on a K5 Blazer while on dry pavement?

I am considering installing a mild 350...nothing too radical.
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Old 02-23-2005, 03:07 PM   #2
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what would you want for the 305 ? since its a slow junky motor I dont know the answer to your other question
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Old 02-23-2005, 03:08 PM   #3
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Sounds like you need to go with lower gears. what is your current gear ratio?
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Old 02-23-2005, 04:35 PM   #4
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keep the 305, a few more ponies wont really help unless the k5 loses a few thou sand pounds
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Old 02-23-2005, 04:41 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by S.A.K-5
keep the 305, a few more ponies wont really help unless the k5 loses a few thou sand pounds
Okay - so it really isn't ever going to feel "snappy" like my old Chevy trucks did. I can accept that, and it is kind of what I expected. I remember I had a Chevy truck with a "bone stock" 305 engine that felt pretty quick and had no trouble spinning the tires, so I figured it was just the extra weight of this fat K5 that made it feel sluggish...not necessarily the engine itself.

The gears are stock as far as I know. Whatever that is.
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Old 02-23-2005, 04:45 PM   #6
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probley 307 swap in some 410 or even 456 if you have a o/d you'll get the snap back
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Old 02-23-2005, 04:56 PM   #7
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Old 02-23-2005, 05:32 PM   #8
 
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Keep the 305....if it ain't broke why fix it.....u want to get power....just save up for that fat bigblock to drop in the blaze....that'll diffrently light um up....so keep the 305 till your ready to put in a "Real" motor.....but with more power comes more broken parts so maybe keeping the 305 is saving you money in the long run.
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Old 02-23-2005, 07:50 PM   #9
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i agree i have a 305 in my k5 and i am going to run it until it dies. i have a 350 sitting in my garage that will go in there next. when i ran 31s i had 3.42s and it wasnt that great on the road it ran at 1500-1700 in OD. gears would probably help put more power to the ground and it would take off quicker.
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Old 02-23-2005, 10:26 PM   #10
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Definitely put some gears in it. You will benefit from that more than anything.
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Thats pretty much how I feel about it....You gone yet?
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Old 02-23-2005, 10:33 PM   #11
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Okay...gears then. So...stock gears (what I probably have) are 307. I've had 342 and 410 gears recommended.

Should I just swap the rear gears or do I have to do both diffs? I want to still be able to drive (comfortably) on the freeway at 70-75 mph...wouldn't 410 be a bad choice for freeway driving?

I had a 373 rear end in my 71 chevy, but it was more for drag racing...THAT was a bad *** truck!.

So my best bet sounds like a 3.42, but now I need to know if I need to swap both diffs, or if it will just work if I have it installed it in the rear.
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Old 02-23-2005, 10:39 PM   #12
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4x4 = both axles. 3:42 ain't deep enough. go with 4:10's at least.
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Old 02-23-2005, 11:08 PM   #13
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If you have a th350 go with the 4.10s, if you have a 700r4 go with 4.56s.
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Old 03-20-2005, 09:37 PM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4Freak
If you have a th350 go with the 4.10s, if you have a 700r4 go with 4.56s.
?por que? is that because of the 5th gear in the 700r4?
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Old 08-11-2005, 07:08 PM   #15
 
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You guys are crack...

A 305 has a 3.736" bore compared to the 350's 4.00", both use the same 3.48 stroke. The issue here is not JUST displacement but rather how much air/fuel the 305 can flow. The cylinder heads have a smaller combustion chamber for the smaller bore of the 305 and as a result must use smaller valves.

For example, the 601 (last three digits) castings with a 58cc chamber use a 1.77 in and 1.5 ex, and have a small kidney shaped chamber similar to the 'double hump' 64cc heads used on the 327 & 350. This casting comes on the 267 and 305 and flows terribly. You could go with a 416 casting (yes, there are others) that has a larger chamber, usually found on the 305 it was also used (poorly) on the 350. This head uses 1.84 in and 1.50 ex valves.

I have built some decent flattop 305's and with a little headwork they run ok but you will see far better results with a similarly built 350+.

One of my best combos was a 350 with hyperutectic flattop pistons (cheaper than forged and will tolerate NOS well), a mild cam with around a .492" lift and 280 deg duration. Some clean, match ported 76cc heads with a 1.94 Intake and 1.60 exhaust will work nicely. Keep it together with a double row timing chaing, high volume pump (I always liked the Melling M-55HV). Use a decent dual plane intake manifold for good low rpm torque and don't over carb it, if you can't use some sort of FI then go with a good Carter or Rochester build... a Holley if it's setup just right. Overcarbing and camming an engine are the number one mistakes.

Parallel deck the block, they are all uneven. Align bore the mains and balance the crank assembly. I have built more of these than I can count and you would be surprised how many big blocks I've outrun merely because they were over carbed and cammed...and put together poorly overall.
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Old 08-11-2005, 07:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
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?por que? is that because of the 5th gear in the 700r4?
No, because of the 4th gear.
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Originally Posted by RVREDDOG
Thats pretty much how I feel about it....You gone yet?
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Old 08-11-2005, 07:47 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by American
You guys are crack...
Care to elaborate?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVREDDOG
Thats pretty much how I feel about it....You gone yet?
Reality is an illusion caused by the absence of alcohol.

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Old 08-11-2005, 08:14 PM   #18
 
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Nah.. it was humor. I was just giving you guys a hard time. I've just always subscribed to keeping the gearing streetable...where you can actually drive 70+ without revving the crap out of the engine.

If you are building something that is strictly off road so be it.. but if you are driving it on the street, like most of us, 99% of the time I'd rather have a strong engine.
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Old 08-11-2005, 09:28 PM   #19
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But since he went to larger tires, wouldn't getting "larger" gears get everything back closer to stock? Then he could keep the 305 stock and still do the 70 mph without reving the crap out of the engine.
















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Old 08-11-2005, 09:35 PM   #20
 
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Good point for sure.
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Old 08-11-2005, 10:49 PM   #21
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I have an 85 K5 and my stock gears in the ten bolt axles were 2.73's. I installed 35"s Swampers with 3.73 gears with a 305 and still hated it. Ended up putting 4.56's with the 305 and th400 and LOVED every stop light and highschool kid with a Mustang! AHHHHHHHHHHH the good old days of being DOT legal.......ummmmmmmmmmmmmm
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Old 08-11-2005, 11:41 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLADIATOR
just put a 454 & be done w/ it. all questions answered, except for the closest gas station
I actually get better mileage with the 454, atleast I did before the rebuild, dont know about now. It's just so much more fun to keep it to the floor when you have more power.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVREDDOG
Thats pretty much how I feel about it....You gone yet?
Reality is an illusion caused by the absence of alcohol.

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Old 09-08-2005, 12:03 AM   #23
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Even though i am mainly a ford guy, isn't the answer always "there is no replacement for displacement." In reality it all depends on how much money you have to spend. If you have the money, it would probably be best to do the gears first and find a good block to start off with. Since you're asking for personal opinions, I would start off with an early 70's 400 block out of a truck, if you can find one, and save up for a stroker kit like the 415 kit from speedomotive. It is pretty cheap starting off at $1050, and you can upgrade it however you want. That would be the basis for a motor all of your friends would envy and would be a crapload lighter than a cast head 454, as for your 305, make do with it as long as you can or until you can build something better so you dont compromise vehicle downtime.
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Old 09-08-2005, 12:11 PM   #24
 
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why not just buy the zz383 stroked from SDPC and get some warranty with it ....
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Old 09-09-2005, 03:14 PM   #25
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Doesn't the zz383 cost over $5g, and doesn't even come close to complete? At least by building a motor, you can do whatever you want to it, and you get to say that "you built it".
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