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Crazy doubler idea 208/205



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Old 06-25-2010, 12:02 PM   #1
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Crazy doubler idea 208/205

Alright I know this isn't conventional, but I have the idea to make a np 208/np 205 doubler, that would resemble the box 4 rocks and madrooster kit. The reason for this is I now have 2 chevy np 208's, one ford np 208, and a chevy round 32 spline short input, and one figure 8 np 205. I also have both the round pattern adapters for the 208 and 205 to go behind my sm465.

I am just in the planning stages and had a couple questions that maybe some people could help with. Who knows this project may never get off the ground, but I think it is a viable option to get great gearing with using parts I have.

1- Is a slip yoke chevy np 208, or a ford np 208 output shaft solid throughout or is there a hollow spot in the output shaft? Anyone ever cut one apart?

2- What is the thickness of the adapter plate on the box4rocks kit? I would imagine it is 3/4 inch plate.

3- Has anyone ever heard of someone doing this? Somewhere on the web I remember reading that someone had built one, and it worked, but was not able to find anymore info.

Thanks for any info.
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Old 06-25-2010, 04:13 PM   #2
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There have been some successful 241/205 doublers, but not many 208's. I've considered this myself, as I have a couple 208's, just need to locate a 205.
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Old 06-25-2010, 06:23 PM   #3
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The idea is plausible, as long as you have the machining capability. I like the idea of the box4rocks on a much grander scale. Keep posting on this as you learn/do more.
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Old 06-25-2010, 09:07 PM   #4
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I thought the draw to doing a 203/205 doubler was the fact that all you need is the gear box from the front of the 203 and not the entire tcase. How would that work with a 208?

What do you do to keep the front output out of the way of the front output on the 205... opposite drops? How do they bolt up? I am interested since I have 2 203's and a 208 sitting here.
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Old 06-25-2010, 09:59 PM   #5
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Here is a link to a 241/205 build. The jeep guys do it with 231/Dana 300's.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=326798


The hardest part of making this work is your shaft that connects both cases. Some people doing homebrew doublers have the shafts machined and weld them together. If I follow thru on this I'm going to try and have a true one piece shaft machined by moser or one of the companies makng these kits.
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Old 06-26-2010, 02:03 AM   #6
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Old 06-26-2010, 06:09 AM   #7
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I like the 241 link it's not that much work. A little expensive but double cool.
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Old 06-26-2010, 08:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragoonranch View Post
You'se crazy alfalfa!

Give me your 4spd case and I'll throw this idea away.
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tires are like boobs they look big until you play with them for a while, then you just want a bigger set!

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Old 06-27-2010, 12:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler View Post
Give me your 4spd case and I'll throw this idea away.
Hellz no! I just got it broke in where it will shift pretty easy.
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Old 06-28-2010, 09:28 AM   #10
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Can some of you all with doublers do me a favor? I would like to know how long your front driveshaft is? Also I would like to know what style joint you are running at your tcase(ie. Double cardan, chevy flange, normal yoke) and also what u-joint size it is. If at all possible could you also measure the angle that the shaft is at. Huge thanks in advance.

Also, does anyone know at roughly what length and angle you have to run a carrier bearing/pillow block (2 piece)front driveshaft.

Here is a link to the progress I have made so far. In this thread there are links to some similar other doubler threads.

http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.p...d=1#post257708
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tires are like boobs they look big until you play with them for a while, then you just want a bigger set!

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79 Chevy truggy tbi 350/sm465/203/205, dana 60's, and 42's
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Old 06-29-2010, 11:37 AM   #11
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My front d-shaft is 42" long from center of the u joint on the axle side to the flange on the np205.

Im using 1310 joints and havent had a problem with them yet, and also using a stock chevy dual cardon/flange setup on the tcase side. I don't know what the angle is off hand though.
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