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Dana 300 output yoke = FUSE



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Old 03-30-2012, 02:15 PM   #1
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Dana 300 output yoke = FUSE

So I've been running a 1310-1350 conversion joint on my D300 which has served as my "fuse" so to speak. Problem is I've been blowing alot of fuses lately. Unfortunately, when the ujoint breaks it often takes the yoke with it. (Broke two yokes and two ujoints last weekend)

Now, I'd rather change out a yoke/ujoint than an output shaft so I'm definitely not moving up to 1350 yoke but was considering a 1330 & 1330-1350 conversion joint to gain strength but hopefully not destroy the tcase.

Not really wanting to put any money into new shafts or tcase upgrades since an Atlas in my not so distant plans.

Think the 1330-1350 bastard joint will give before the output shaft or I'm stuck limping back to camp in 2wheel drive till it get an atlas?

Any thoughts, ideas or experiences is appreciated.

Thanks,
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:27 PM   #2
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What is the situation when the joint lets go? 9000rpm and 44" tires or idle and 33's? Are you bouncing when it happens, ect?
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:36 PM   #3
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Re: Dana 300 output yoke = FUSE

X2, & what axle gear ratio? Automatic or stick?
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:37 PM   #4
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I'm going to guess you have axle rap.
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:50 PM   #5
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Usually when the Nitrous kicks in! Ha

Nah usually on steep climbs with a bit of bouncing. For example, Broke the front on turkey run right with a heavy bump but not much RPM.
Broke the rear on I Scream Sunday higher RPMs and mucho bouncing.

But when I was screwing around on Widow maker, it was kigh RPMs and wheelies but the drivetrain felt solid.
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:52 PM   #6
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Did the brake after widow maker or before? How old were the joint that broke? How many trips on them?
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
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X2, & what axle gear ratio? Automatic or stick?
in my siggy homles

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I'm going to guess you have axle rap.
little bit. using toyota rear leafs front in rear. have a traction bar in the rear and a limiting stap in the front limiting downward twist on the front axle.

wrap is better but still there.

I'm probably almost to the point of needing a cv in the shafts but don't think they're binding up that much.
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:02 PM   #8
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What brand of ujoint are you using?

Having a CV in the rear will make it really strong!
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:04 PM   #9
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Did the brake after widow maker or before? How old were the joint that broke? How many trips on them?
Broke my front Saturday morning. Rear Saturday afternoon. Hit up widow maker Sunday noonish.

Replaced the rear last time I was at trees last fall some time. Two maybe three trips since then at Katemcy.
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:05 PM   #10
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What brand of ujoint are you using?

Having a CV in the rear will make it really strong!
Spicer.
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:05 PM   #11
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IMO, WM compared to TR or ICS is night and day - the available traction on WM is almost zero compared to most trails.

If you are breaking joints that easy, I would take the chance on the shaft.


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Old 04-02-2012, 11:37 AM   #12
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Thanks for all the input i already have a couple spare 1310 yokes but as soon as they go, i'm putting 1330s. I'll let you know if the shafts fail.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:48 AM   #13
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and stop bouncing!
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:03 PM   #14
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Yeah, That's not going to happen. Got some new springs so hopefully I'll be a little better off. But as long as I'm on leafs, I'll-be-a-bouncin
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:54 AM   #15
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Good shocks well stop the boucing.
And getting rid of the axle wrap. With a anit-wrap bar well help to.
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:05 PM   #16
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Thanks for the suggestions. I've got a traction bar. shocks are rancho 9000s turned up all the way. Not the best but not bad.
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:15 PM   #17
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Are your shocks running straight up or inboarded? Closer to housing or springs?



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Old 04-03-2012, 01:35 PM   #18
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Re: Dana 300 output yoke = FUSE

Chris, are you running quality yokes or cheapies? Are they strap or u bolt?
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:43 PM   #19
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up and down between the tires and the springs. Here's a good view. (this is before the traction bar and the rear leaf is tweaked.)


I really do appreciate all of the suggestions on the suspension set up. But the bouncing is an acceptable part of trying to get up ledges. It happens to all rigs. It doesn't prohibit me making most stuff it's just a bi-product of power, gravity, and a lack of traction. (MTRs Suck by the way). My concern is the strength of the output shaft of a D300.
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:51 PM   #20
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and a lack of traction. (MTRs Suck by the way).
Are they the Kevlars?
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Old 04-03-2012, 02:14 PM   #21
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nope old style
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