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Engine All out Power Kill



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Old 12-22-2008, 06:01 AM   #1
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Engine All out Power Kill

I am having issues with my chevy 350. If I hold it in 1st gear and take off down the highway it runs great until I put it on the floor and it begins to rev into the 5,000 RPM range. As soon as it gets about to it's max RPM it falls off completely, like you cut the fuel off. Now that said, I just put a new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new carburator... My only guess that I have left is my coil isn't able to hold at that RPM but would that cause it to fall off totally and then it sits there cutting out for a few minutes until it finally runs great again? Another note, it revs great in neutral. Has anyone else ever had a problem like this? THANKS in ADVANCE!
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14 Bolt FF rear w/ 456's and a Detroit
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Old 12-22-2008, 07:48 AM   #2
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check the carbs float level..could be starving the engine..just a thought....did it do it before you installed the new pump?....L
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Lookin good man. I can't freakin wait to beat on that little thing.
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Old 12-22-2008, 08:39 AM   #3
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Yes, it did it with the old fuel pump and with the old carb on it also. Now everything's a week old and it still does it. I have been reading things and it really sounds like it's similar to what people call rotor misfire, but there's not a pop or anything, just like a loss of spark or a mangled spark because it cuts out after that but no popping... Anyone had this happen?
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1984 Chevrolet
C10 Frame / Body
Dana 60 front w/ 456's
14 Bolt FF rear w/ 456's and a Detroit
10" Suspension Lift
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350 motor (400HP)
TH350 Tranny
208 T-Case
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Old 12-22-2008, 09:45 AM   #4
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Sounds like fuel to me.
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:15 AM   #5
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ontherun is just really happyontherun is just really happyontherun is just really happyontherun is just really happy
It's rare you get scatterd spark unless you have a faulty cap..you could be floating the valves...but it still sounds like fuel..double check the timeing....thats all I got...L
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Lookin good man. I can't freakin wait to beat on that little thing.
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:19 AM   #6
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If it's fuel would it run like a scalded ape all the time except when it's overreved? And it doesn't sound like floating valves because it will never "BANG OUT" before it does that it just totally falls off.
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1984 Chevrolet
C10 Frame / Body
Dana 60 front w/ 456's
14 Bolt FF rear w/ 456's and a Detroit
10" Suspension Lift
3" Body lift
350 motor (400HP)
TH350 Tranny
208 T-Case
38.5 x 15 x 16.5 Boggers
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:34 AM   #7
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Granted this is base off a Toyota but you may want to look into that.
Are you using your stock gas tank?
My buddy installed a after market one with the pick-up tube on top...sitting in the bed of his truck. He was loosing suction and getting air in his fuel line. We sense then installed a bulk head fitting under the fuel cell (now the pick-up) and seems to work great.
No air in his fuel line.
His would stutter loose power just as he got on the highway upper RPMs (no tack).
He intalled a clear fuel filter inline with his stock one. That what lead us to air in the fuel lines. It ran normal city driving but lost power trying to make it to the HWY.
Yesterday we took it out for a spin on the HWY...ran like a champ!!! up to 70mph and if anyone knows 22R motor that means alot. lol
Just something to pounder.
Mike
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:47 AM   #8
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Thanks, in that case I already have a clear inline filter. It does have air in it from me installing the new fuel pump and filter, should all of the air come out of the filter as soon as I run it or should it always have a little air in the line. If not do I need to bleed the line or what?
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1984 Chevrolet
C10 Frame / Body
Dana 60 front w/ 456's
14 Bolt FF rear w/ 456's and a Detroit
10" Suspension Lift
3" Body lift
350 motor (400HP)
TH350 Tranny
208 T-Case
38.5 x 15 x 16.5 Boggers
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:00 AM   #9
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His has some air in it about 1/4" on top at best . But you should not see bubbles coming up with the engine on or reving it up.
If you do then it may be your problem. to much air starving the engine.
You don't have to bleed anything.
Still didn't state if you are using the stock fuel tank or after market?
Mike


that along with if you have a vent or return line? some other stuff to think about...or answer to try and get a better idea why your mouse motor is falling flat at the top end.
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:08 AM   #10
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check the pickup coil in the dist and the shaft to see if you have slack in it and or worn bushings. what's your advance timing settings at WOT and at idle?
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If you need a ladder to work on your rig you might want to re-think your suspension.
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thats the look a 14yo boy has the 1st time he sees his 1st set of boobies . its the simple pleasures in life
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:32 AM   #11
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I am running the stock fuel tank. My timing is set at 14 degrees at idle.
By pickup coil in the distributor cap, you just mean the coil having slack (not bolted down tight?)?
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1984 Chevrolet
C10 Frame / Body
Dana 60 front w/ 456's
14 Bolt FF rear w/ 456's and a Detroit
10" Suspension Lift
3" Body lift
350 motor (400HP)
TH350 Tranny
208 T-Case
38.5 x 15 x 16.5 Boggers
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:43 AM   #12
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no, not the coil in the cap. The pickup coil / ignition module / reluctor ring sit @ the bottom of the Dist, where the vacum advance plate is. the ring has tabs on it that fire when the Dist rotates. If the shaft has slack in it, it will cause a mis-fire condition.

Here's a link that you can see the diff pieces of the Dist.

click me --> clicky
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If you need a ladder to work on your rig you might want to re-think your suspension.
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thats the look a 14yo boy has the 1st time he sees his 1st set of boobies . its the simple pleasures in life
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:35 PM   #13
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I see what your talking about, I didn't know the name of it. That felt tight to me, but i will check again because I didn't necessarily check for slack when I put the new rotor on.
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1984 Chevrolet
C10 Frame / Body
Dana 60 front w/ 456's
14 Bolt FF rear w/ 456's and a Detroit
10" Suspension Lift
3" Body lift
350 motor (400HP)
TH350 Tranny
208 T-Case
38.5 x 15 x 16.5 Boggers
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Old 12-22-2008, 04:10 PM   #14
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broken valve springs?
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Old 12-22-2008, 05:07 PM   #15
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No valve floating whatsoever, just sounds like it drank all of the fuel and you cut it off but it doesn't sound like you run out of gas to where it's picking up fuel and sputtering from it, I think it would die totally if you didn't feather it. Also I feathered it for about 30 seconds keeping it going and then i could hold it at about 2500-3000 rpm and it would also sound like you turned the fuel off until I played with it for another 30 seconds and then it came back running like a top again. Then I could gas it however I wanted and it would run like it should. If a coil gets that hot at a high rpm could it cause that? Or could it be the new carburetor WOT isn't set correctly or the carb set correctly at all?
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1984 Chevrolet
C10 Frame / Body
Dana 60 front w/ 456's
14 Bolt FF rear w/ 456's and a Detroit
10" Suspension Lift
3" Body lift
350 motor (400HP)
TH350 Tranny
208 T-Case
38.5 x 15 x 16.5 Boggers
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Old 12-22-2008, 06:37 PM   #16
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it sounds more like the carb now,if its a rebuilt take it back until your get one that works right. if its a new one either get it warrantied or pull the top and check the needle valve for trash and make sure the flote is set right.
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Old 12-22-2008, 06:38 PM   #17
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what kinda fuel pump you running?
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If you need a ladder to work on your rig you might want to re-think your suspension.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigevil View Post
thats the look a 14yo boy has the 1st time he sees his 1st set of boobies . its the simple pleasures in life
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Originally Posted by 4x4Freak View Post
Wood yoo lik two bi a voul? I have won four cell.
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Old 12-22-2008, 06:41 PM   #18
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oh.... just remembered this... check your rubber fuel lines, if they are old they can be collasping on the inside, high rpm more suction, lines closes, engine starves
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVREDDOG View Post
If you need a ladder to work on your rig you might want to re-think your suspension.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigevil View Post
thats the look a 14yo boy has the 1st time he sees his 1st set of boobies . its the simple pleasures in life
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4Freak View Post
Wood yoo lik two bi a voul? I have won four cell.
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:21 PM   #19
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mine did the same thing...

would run fine ...crawl all day....hit some mud floor it about 4 to 4500 fall on its face for a few minutes then puff like nothing ever happened....

when it stalles pull the cap.....touch the ign.module.........if its hotter than hell that might be the prob.......

i got a new one from a-zone.....never had a problem after that

hope this is it...
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Old 12-23-2008, 05:04 AM   #20
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I have an airtex electric fuel pump and I just replaced all of the lines about 2 months ago. Glassman, I will take a look at it, especially since the next thing I do is a full tune up on it. I might just as well go get a new ignition module and put on it just because I know it's probably antique! Thanks for the help, I will let you know how it goes.

Now that I have read about it, my tach has been bouncing about 300 rpm when it was anywhere from 2000-3000 rpm... I thought it could be due to having water in the gas but it looks like it's a symptom of a bad ignition module. Is that correct? It also starts very slow after it's warmed up. It turns over and turns over until it finally starts. Is this an issue of a bad module?

I would have given these symptoms also but i thought for sure that it was just because I needed to give it a tune up.
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1984 Chevrolet
C10 Frame / Body
Dana 60 front w/ 456's
14 Bolt FF rear w/ 456's and a Detroit
10" Suspension Lift
3" Body lift
350 motor (400HP)
TH350 Tranny
208 T-Case
38.5 x 15 x 16.5 Boggers

Last edited by ChevyBogger; 12-23-2008 at 06:00 AM..
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:52 PM   #21
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where did you mount that fuel pump?
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Old 12-23-2008, 02:09 PM   #22
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fuel pump is mounted on the top of the passenger side fender well plenty away from the heat. Is there a problem with that?
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1984 Chevrolet
C10 Frame / Body
Dana 60 front w/ 456's
14 Bolt FF rear w/ 456's and a Detroit
10" Suspension Lift
3" Body lift
350 motor (400HP)
TH350 Tranny
208 T-Case
38.5 x 15 x 16.5 Boggers
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Old 12-23-2008, 02:19 PM   #23
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I have mine mounted on the chasis...next to the gas tank. Mine likes to push the fuel and not so much suck.
you say passenger side fender well..is that front or back fender/quarter panel?
Mike
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Old 12-23-2008, 02:59 PM   #24
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fuel pump is mounted on the top of the passenger side fender well plenty away from the heat. Is there a problem with that?
yes,I think we are getting somewhere now...that type of fuel pump is a diaphragm pump like the stock pump but with a solenoid. they need to be mounted as low or lower than the bottom of the fuel tank,They aslo need to be mounted as close to it as possible. just as Mike said they need to push fuel not pull. They get feed by a siphoning action. also you want the solenoid facing up.
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Old 12-23-2008, 04:17 PM   #25
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I have an airtex fuel pump from o'reilly's. It is on the top of my passenger inner fender under my hood (about 1.5' above the tank level). I really can't put my pump any closer to the tank other than down on the bottom of my front inner fender to get it lower because i'm using the factory lines. I will try it if you think that could be the problem...

Airtex Electric Fuel Pump

Part Number: E8012S
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1984 Chevrolet
C10 Frame / Body
Dana 60 front w/ 456's
14 Bolt FF rear w/ 456's and a Detroit
10" Suspension Lift
3" Body lift
350 motor (400HP)
TH350 Tranny
208 T-Case
38.5 x 15 x 16.5 Boggers
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