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hyd. clutch 91 s10



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Old 01-23-2010, 12:33 AM   #1
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hyd. clutch 91 s10

91 s10 4x4 nv3500 trans

blew the motor, replaced the motor, press. plate, and turned flywheel, went back together i let off the clutch and the whole truck shaked... put a clutch kit in it, and now the damn thing WILL NOT bleed...

i have NO CLUE how the hell i got it to bleed the frist time around, i member it was a pain in the *****... but this time round, ive tried everything i can think of, ive tried gravity bleeding, hand vacume pump on the bleeder, iver tried by the book unbolting it and bleeding it at 45 degrees, unbolting it and pushing the piston in bleeding the air thru the resovoir... the damn thing will not bleed... ive replaced the m/c s/c and the hyd. line... all is brand new

its pissed me off bad enough that the truck has sat since i blew the motor in feb of 08...



any suggestions?
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:42 AM   #2
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Give it to me and you have to hassle with it?

No idea man, you've done everything I would suggest. Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:51 AM   #3
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the only thing i havnt tried, a buddy of mine said napa sells "one man bleeders" its a bleeder screw with a oneway check valve in it, and all u do it loosen the bleed like u normaly would, and then get in and pump the pedel till it gets stiff occasionally checking the fluid level... the one way will let fluid out, but nothing back in, allowing it to bleed


im not to sure on this, but its my next step... if that dont work, im half inclined to yank the motor back out, let the line and slave dangle to the ground, and bleed it like that...


ima diehard chevy fan but i swear, theyre design of the clutch line on these s10's SUCK, even worse than there fuel filter design for the durmax
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Old 01-23-2010, 06:41 AM   #4
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Ah yes, the Dmax fuel filter. It is definitely a major pain in the rear.

I would say that you may need a rebuild kit (if they sell one), or a new slave and master if it has set that long. I was having lots of trouble with one I put on my rig, and you could see black goo floating up into the reservoir when you would let off of the clutch pedal. The only thing we could figure is that the o-rings started 'melting'.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:11 AM   #5
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Make sure the hole in the bottom of the reservoir is clear. My dad tried bleeding a slave cylinder for days one time, even replaced everything but the reservoir with no luck. We finally found the paper gasket out of the brake fluid bottle laying in the bottom covering the hole. I found a truck at the junk yard one time that had been converted to a mechanical clutch. I looked in the reservoir that was still there and the gasket was laying the bottom. lol

I dont know what type of setup your truck has, but I've had good luck with another method on my K10. I pulled the slave off the mount and let it extend all the way. I pumped the peddle a few times, then got under the truck and pushed the slave in by hand. This pushes the air back up through the master. I did it a couple times and it worked good.
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:16 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by 4x4Freak View Post
I dont know what type of setup your truck has, but I've had good luck with another method on my K10.
on the s-series (dunno if its like this for the c/k series in this yr range that have the nv3500) but the hyd. line comes off of the m/c on the driver side, goes down, curves, goes back up, strait over the tranny bellhousing to the pass side, then once it is close to the vent box, it shoots down to the slave


so all the air get trapped right where it goes across the back of the engine block
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Old 01-24-2010, 05:30 PM   #7
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alright, i spent most of the day bleeding it, and ive gotten closer than i have in almost 2 years...

it'll go into 5th, 4th and 3rd... whereas before todays bleeding, it would only go into 5th... i think if i bleed it some more i might gain 1st 2nd and rev, then ill b good to go
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:34 PM   #8
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THE S10'S CLUTCH IS FINALY BLED

took er round the block, its still got the overheating problem, but that will b fixed soon as i replace the driverside frz plug, and pull the intake to extract the remanence of gm's wonderfully designed PLASTIC fitting on the back p/s of the intake for the heater core hoses...






still got alota lil stuff to do to it to make it road worthy... LOTS of electrical issues... i suspect a couple grounds, new batt, ball joints, u joints, replace my homemade cotterpins made from close hanger from when i was a broke college student in waco, tires for the rear, fix the harness for the radio, goes into gear fine, but it still scratches going into rev. so idk if there might be 1 more air bubble left, block test the engine, find the cyl miss, its runnin rich and leaking fuel into the oil, exhaust leaks at the manifold(warped manifolds), redo the exhaust after the manifolds(after the y pipe it goes strait into a glass pack and dumps at the back of the cab ), replace my dimmer switch(thanks to my autotech teacher back in highschool ) finish wiring up the offroad lights.


then once all that is done, i plan to replace the whole front clip hood, fenders grill and all, get it repainted the factory color, get the decal on the side redone, then swap in the axles im gettin frm my buddy outa his 70's jeep wagoneer, rims and tires, then she'll be where i want her


but all in all im happy i finally got the damn thang bled... it only took me 2 yrs, but i get her done
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