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Most angle from a front Drive Shaft



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Old 09-08-2006, 03:16 PM   #1
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Most angle from a front Drive Shaft

I have a feeling my 1/2 ton drive shaft will not last to long now that I have 38s and a BBC. So my question what would be the best cheap option on building my square front shaft....1350 CV out of a ford truck or I have a 1350 yoke I could put on my front output and not run a CV. I am worried because I have short front drive shaft (465 & 205 and axle moved forward a about 2 inches) and 52s up front. Which will allow more droop the CV or the straight shaft?
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Old 09-08-2006, 04:08 PM   #2
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I had to run a tom woods super-flex joint at the diff to get mine to jive. My front only moved 1 1/2" foward.
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Old 09-08-2006, 04:22 PM   #3
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Your angle should be better now that you moved your axle forward. You can use the parts off your driveshaft now to build a square shaft, so that would be the cheapest. The main problem I see is you getting enough travel out of the stock shaft, but the square one will fix that.

The CV will allow the most droop. That being said I'm going with the 03 f250 and newer front driveshafts for parts to make my square ones.
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Old 09-08-2006, 04:29 PM   #4
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I have a very long travel slip yoke on there now but the 52's max out the stock CV with the stops ground out. I don't see the 1/2 CV and 1310 U-Joint holding up very long.
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Old 09-08-2006, 04:43 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Jeromy
I have a very long travel slip yoke on there now but the 52's max out the stock CV with the stops ground out. I don't see the 1/2 CV and 1310 U-Joint holding up very long.
You must be running about 35 degrees then. Can you put tapered shims under the leaves to bring up the pinion? That will help a lot.
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Old 09-08-2006, 06:45 PM   #6
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That is what I ran on my for a long time. (1/2 ton 1310). This time I going with the F250 fronts. The 03 and newer are 1350 CV style.
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Old 09-08-2006, 07:09 PM   #7
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A single ujoint will allow more angle than a standard cv joint.
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Old 09-08-2006, 08:01 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by mudgod
That is what I ran on my for a long time. (1/2 ton 1310). This time I going with the F250 fronts. The 03 and newer are 1350 CV style.
But the only thing that beats the angle of a 1310 is a 1410.

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Old 09-08-2006, 08:27 PM   #9
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I told him he could run the stock stuff with no problem and that would be cheapest, and that I had run that set-up for a long time. This time I'm changing because I went with a fix yoke 208, and I want my front driveshaft and back to be the same so I can carry one spare.
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Old 09-08-2006, 08:43 PM   #10
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When I had that same setup I ran 1350 joints with a CV and square shafts.
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Old 09-09-2006, 11:57 AM   #11
 
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the problem with running a double cardan (not a true c/v ) up front is that you can't rotate the pinion up without spinning the tubes as it will affect your steering. a double cardan setup requires that the single joint end run straight into the pinion.

my rear axle is pushed back 4 inches making my driveshafts almost exactly the same length. my front axle is forward 2 inches with stock 52's. I run a 700/klune/205 (fyi... the klune/205 is almost the same demensions as an np208 ) and single 1350's at each end of both square driveshafts. 1410 would be better for both strength and angle, but the 1350's are working for me so far.
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Old 09-09-2006, 12:40 PM   #12
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I think randy's r/p has a u-joint that has off set trunion's.Might look at their web site. The offset give's a lot more angle in the yoke's.
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Old 09-09-2006, 03:10 PM   #13
 
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oh yeah... i forgot to mention I run a tom woods super-flex 1350 joint at the front output of the case. but mainly just because I had it from a trade I did for parts.
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Old 09-09-2006, 10:35 PM   #14
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The tom wood's joint was the one I was talking about.Wasn't sure were I seen it. Just on tomwood's 60 buck's aint bad if he had them for a sammi
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Old 09-11-2006, 02:12 PM   #15
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Dumb question but is it worth all the trouble to put a CV in a trail only truck? Sounds like the best route and cheapest might just be 1350 on both ends without a CV and to run Tom Woods U-Joints.
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Old 09-11-2006, 02:36 PM   #16
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I am running a Tom Wood's drive shaft with Super Flex U-joints to give me up to a 40 degree angle. The U-joints are $65.00 ea and depending on the spline travel a drive shaft would cost about $350-$450 per drive shaft. Or you can just purchase two U-joints for $130.00 plus shipping. My opinion is for the cheapest and a good application the square drive shaft is probably the best route. I didn't want alot of noise and wanted to have the capablity of driving on the highway so I went with Tom Wood's. Good luck.
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:13 PM   #17
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeromy
Dumb question but is it worth all the trouble to put a CV in a trail only truck? Sounds like the best route and cheapest might just be 1350 on both ends without a CV and to run Tom Woods U-Joints.
but then you'd almost have spent what you would on 1410's all around. and you shouldn't drive the super joints at hiway speeds.

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Old 09-11-2006, 09:20 PM   #18
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but then you'd almost have spent what you would on 1410's all around. and you should drive the super joints at hiway speeds.
I'm not sure I understand this statement. Do you mean you shouldn't drive them on the highway? I've always heard that the Woods joint is a real vibrator.
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:53 PM   #19
 
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I'm not sure I understand this statement. Do you mean you shouldn't drive them on the highway? I've always heard that the Woods joint is a real vibrator.
oops, typed too fast... I meant should NOT
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:58 PM   #20
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Go 1410 and forget about it.
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Old 09-12-2006, 07:38 PM   #21
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Go 1410 and forget about it.
Yep, that's what I have all around.



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