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motorcraft 2100



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Old 05-07-2012, 08:39 PM   #1
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motorcraft 2100

Ive done alittle research on carbs for offroading/rockcrawlin' and from what ive read motorcraft2100 is pretty darn good carb! So Im goin to run one til I can aford propane convertion. Im looking for some good tech on rebuildin this thing I have a rebuild kit my main thing is spring locations this carb has none of the springs on the linkage, so anyone know of any go sites to look at?
I found a good pdf on the break down of the 2100 but it dont show linkage spring location but ill up load what I found shortly
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:59 PM   #2
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http://hurtle.com/cars/mustang/fixes/carb/
Also Im really not sure what lines go where on the carb! Thanks alot guys
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:46 PM   #3
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Im sure the port on the front is feul inlet
but not sure what these two are
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:54 PM   #4
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And does this brass nipple run to the vac advance on the hei
THANKS AGIEN GUYS FOR ALL YALLS HELP!!!!!!
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:46 PM   #5
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I have one similar to that sitting on the shelf. I can snap a couple pics for you tomorrow. If you need or want a hand with the rebuild, let me know. I can rebuild that carb in my sleep.
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:15 PM   #6
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Thanks! A hand in the rebuild would be awesome!
There could be some coors light for your troubles
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:19 PM   #7
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Awesome, that's when I do my best work. Let me know when. It won't take long to rebuild.
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:03 AM   #8
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Mount the carb backwards and they work great. That's how I ran my 2100 on my cj!
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:30 AM   #9
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I ran one for years on my landcruiser before switching to propane. Here are some links I found through da googleizer.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._2150_carb.pdf

http://home.comcast.net/~liohn/MC2100/MC2100Rebuild.pdf
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:24 AM   #10
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I ran one for years on my landcruiser before switching to propane. Here are some links I found through da googleizer.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._2150_carb.pdf

http://home.comcast.net/~liohn/MC2100/MC2100Rebuild.pdf
I googleized it to and found the ranger station link I saved the pdf but could post it on here!
Thanks budd
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:25 AM   #11
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Ive heard of people runnin there carbs backwards, what does this do for it?
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:48 PM   #12
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The one on the bottom of the choke mechanism(black thingy) is for exhaust heat source. There is a probe I put in the box for this. You will need to drill an exact size hole in the exhaust manifold and insert this in the hole with some silver antisieze. It is like a quadrajet choke stove assembly basically.

I think the other two are both vaccum, but not sure if constant or ported. I think I also put a line in the box for the other threaded port. Most likely you can plug them for now and test once running. You can run ported or constant vacuum source to the HEI. I would suggest running constant to keep ign. timing up at idle. It will be snappier and run cleaner idling around the trails.

Just a guess, but the ported vacuum is probably the one up higher with no threads since it is above the venturi, and the bottom threaded one is probably constant....again, just guessing semi-educatedly.

The one on the front is the fuel inlet as you guessed.
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:37 PM   #13
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Is there not a return fuel line on this carb?
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:46 PM   #14
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I used a inline filter with a return port in the CJ7.











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Old 05-08-2012, 03:03 PM   #15
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Dont think there is a return line. Most carbs dont have.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:01 PM   #16
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I used a inline filter with a return port in the CJ7.












I just read that on a google search sorry guys! Jumpin the gun !

And on that stove choke? Id hate to drill my new headers, but if I have to I will
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:56 PM   #17
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On the one I ran I just blocked that port off. Seems like I ran a bolt inside of it or something but for sure didn't use it.
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:04 PM   #18
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On the one I ran I just blocked that port off. Seems like I ran a bolt inside of it or something but for sure didn't use it.
Yeah, you dont have to use it. You could use a bung for a pyrometer which would allow you to block it off later if you wanted. But, if you dont want chock, you dont need it.
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:03 PM   #19
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Yeah, you dont have to use it. You could use a bung for a pyrometer which would allow you to block it off later if you wanted. But, if you dont want chock, you dont need it.
The choke is electric and will work fine without that temp probe thingy. At least mine did. :shrugshoulder:
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:22 PM   #20
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This one only has a stove choke it has 1967-69 writin on the carb if that helps any
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:07 PM   #21
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That will teach me to not look at the picture closely. Mine had an electric choke element. Looked just like yours but had a wire connecter coming out the front. I bet you could find a choke element at the junk yard.
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