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Gas\Diesel Engine & Transmission:

new to a diesel help on a 12v



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Old 06-07-2010, 07:08 AM   #1
Rock Monkey
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
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deerhunter23 just gettin started
new to a diesel help on a 12v

ok for some reason i cant seem to find the idle screw on a 97 cummings 12v i know its around the injection pump but were? Also i have a power stering pump leak but its not coming from the pump or the lines at the pump. It is up by the firewall. Has any body had this prob if so what did you have to replace b/c i cant pin point were it is coming from. Its leaking down onto the fram about inbetween the center of the tire and firewall. thanks for your help
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83 chevy 3/4 ton,10 bolt detroit true trac,14bff , 5:13 gears ,454 broed 60 over edelbroke heads,air gap intake,holley 770cfm, 4in susp. 36x12.5 good yr rt11
soon to come dana 60,cross-over steering,hydrolic-assist,boggers and plan to do some cutting
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Old 06-07-2010, 11:04 AM   #2
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dragogt just gettin started
http://www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/

Quote:
The 94-98 12valve:

Easy instructions at http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf They are instructions to replace the fuel plate, but instead of replacing you just slide it forward. I also have another article with a couple pictures here: (Link not working....will add it ASAP) . Not that I'm getting to the troubleshooting part here, but often overlooked is the overflow valve. It's basically the fuel pressure regulator and should be replaced every 100k miles.
and for the Governor springs: http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ad.php?t=15634

This uses a washer to shim the governor springs for more rpm, usually about 3200. It's the low buck alternative to a 3k gov spring kit(GSK). Although, you cant go wrong with the real thing. A real 3k GSK is usually $150 or less, and you need heavier valve springs if you start pushing past 3400 rpm(if you go with the 4k GSK). They also come with decent instructions, and can usually be done in just under 2 hrs for a first timer.
Does your truck have a hydroboost brake system on it?? That could be your leak..
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'92 Isuzu Rodeo 5sp 4x4 (waiting on 3800 swap)

Aaron
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:53 PM   #3
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It's on the side of the IP, near the back, on the bottom. There is a lock nut that you need to loosen in order to make adjustments. It's a little tough to get to and if I remembe right is a 10mm. Sounds like your leak is probably at the Hydroboost.
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Old 06-07-2010, 04:07 PM   #4
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Now that I think about it, I think it's a 13 mm.
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Fawker Fab 3 seater Buggy - Buster II
498 Stroker BBC/pane/465/Fawker Fab Doubler/One Tons/Detroits/Chromos/Longfields/16" FOA Coilovers/18" air shocks/one link/three link/42" PBR's and lots of throttle.

When all else fails, give it hell.

Push it to the Limit with RevLimit Off Road!
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:34 PM   #5
Rock Monkey
 
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deerhunter23 just gettin started
thanks for the info and i still need to get a boost gauge before i really get into building the motor up. Heck it only has 161,000 miles on it and ill look around the hydroboost on the bottom side. Also dragogt how much power can you get from doing that
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83 chevy 3/4 ton,10 bolt detroit true trac,14bff , 5:13 gears ,454 broed 60 over edelbroke heads,air gap intake,holley 770cfm, 4in susp. 36x12.5 good yr rt11
soon to come dana 60,cross-over steering,hydrolic-assist,boggers and plan to do some cutting
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:05 AM   #6
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get a pyrometer before doing anything. you dont want to cook you engine.
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:58 AM   #7
Gonzo Wheeler
 
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I agree, if you're going to do any towing or performance upgrades, an EGT gauge is a must. These engines tend to run hot when you add more fuel without adding more air.

I'm running a #10 plate about 1/16" back from stock position, 3K GSK, AFC housing forward, boost elbow, straight exhaust and BHAF. It runs great and pulls 15K very well and as fast as I want to go. If you start adding more fuel, be ready for a clutch or rebuilt tranny if it's an auto. I put the plate in and within a couple days, the stock clutch was toast thanks to my heavy foot. I now have a Valair 13" clutch and have no worries.

Next to the fuel plate, I'd say the 3K GSK was the best upgrade I did. It will now fuel to about 2800 where as before, it would only fuel to about 2K.

Sign up on cumminsforum.com and use the SEARCH, there's lots of great info to be found on that site.
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Fawker Fab 3 seater Buggy - Buster II
498 Stroker BBC/pane/465/Fawker Fab Doubler/One Tons/Detroits/Chromos/Longfields/16" FOA Coilovers/18" air shocks/one link/three link/42" PBR's and lots of throttle.

When all else fails, give it hell.

Push it to the Limit with RevLimit Off Road!
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:49 PM   #8
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will do thanks 66_ss396
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83 chevy 3/4 ton,10 bolt detroit true trac,14bff , 5:13 gears ,454 broed 60 over edelbroke heads,air gap intake,holley 770cfm, 4in susp. 36x12.5 good yr rt11
soon to come dana 60,cross-over steering,hydrolic-assist,boggers and plan to do some cutting
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:32 AM   #9
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I just remembered this link. Step by step to adjust your idle.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adjustm...d_Gen-Idle.htm
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Fawker Fab 3 seater Buggy - Buster II
498 Stroker BBC/pane/465/Fawker Fab Doubler/One Tons/Detroits/Chromos/Longfields/16" FOA Coilovers/18" air shocks/one link/three link/42" PBR's and lots of throttle.

When all else fails, give it hell.

Push it to the Limit with RevLimit Off Road!
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