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Tranny/x-fer case connection issues...



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Old 08-14-2006, 08:16 PM   #1
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Tranny/x-fer case connection issues...

After about a month's worth of driving my rig easy-like, I've had a couple issues that are really bugging me. I'm hoping they're related and I can kill two birds with two bolts.

Issue 1: In gear, 2wd or 4wd (basically anytime the tranny is engaged) there is a light popping coming from somewhere under my truck. I can't find it. Originally I thought it was the fan hitting the fan shroud, but I've completely exhausted all possibilities of that. Either way, that's the sound it's making. Today I've gone through and tightened everything up, adding zip ties and bailing wire to anything else that could possibly rattle. It does not, under any circumstances do it when it's out of gear, neutral or park.

Issue 2: During my search for rattles, I discovered the transmission is separating itself from the transfercase. Two of the bolts have completely stripped out, and the other two keep backing out (even with threadlock). How do I go about repairing the stripped housing, and what's going to keep the darn things tight?

Part of me is beginning to think the case may be dropping down and causing the upper u-joint to rattle. It only happens when I first take off, and I can make it stop pretty well after it shifts into second.

Okay, I lied, Issue 3: Tranny shifts funny from first to second. Almost like you're pushing in the clutch on a stick. Hard grab all the way through 1st, pause and pretty good rev-up, and then grabs second and goes. It kinda "floats" in there before it'll go again.
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:42 PM   #2
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Do you have the TV cable adjusted properly? That could be causing the shifting issues.

As for the bolts, your best bet would be some type of thread inserts or helicoils. If you can, I would also use studs instead of bolts. You can tighten them more without having to worry about stripping the threads.

Are you getting the threads good and clean before you put the locktight on the bolts?

Have you checked the flexplate for rubbing or loose bolts?
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:05 PM   #3
 
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You might also look at the mounts if they are shot they could be part of your problem.
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:15 PM   #4
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I think I've got the TV adjusted well. All the other shift points are fine, and it'll drop in/out of OD perfectly.

I've never used thread inserts or helicoils, although I've seen it done on TV. Is it one of those things I'm gonna need to stay at the Holiday Inn Express before trying? Studs are a GREAT idea, I'll go that route for sure. Plenty of room.

Zach, my spit can only clean so much grime. I cleaned the bolts but not the holes. I'll be sure to do that when I get ready to put the studs in.

And no, I didn't get that far as to check all that. I did a little better job, but it wouldn't surprise me if the motor's not twisting that flexplate into that fancy gold-anodized adapter. Reckon I shoulda used the 400's TC instead of the 700r4's? Or will they even swap? Was thinking it might be causing a drop in line pressure during the 1st/2nd pause and the motor's having to rev to build it back up?

By the way, doing burnouts is eating the heck outta my rear tires. Gotta quit that crap, but it's just so darn much fun to see them BOTH going. hehe.
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:16 PM   #5
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You might also look at the mounts if they are shot they could be part of your problem.

Which'n's? motor, tranny, or other?

I know the motor mounts are shot. I've gotta do something about those pretty darn quick.
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Old 08-17-2006, 08:53 AM   #6
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helicoil = easy

check the dust cover on the tranny... mine was hitting the flexplate and sounded like a fan problem

check the tranny mount, you said the motor mounts are shot? twisting the motor in the mounts can twist the trannyas wellcausing bolts to loosen, rattles

shifting... ill ask my tranny guy abouut the tc... wow you have 700r4 behind a 455... no wonder the burnouts
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Old 08-17-2006, 10:05 AM   #7
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still working on the problem. I picked up an assortment of bolts after chasing around trying to find what size the were most of the day yesterday. Apparently GM dealerships don't have those bolts listed on their systems, and Toby out at Scoggin-Dickey (ARP bolt guru) couldn't find an application. They do have some available, however it's just a standard bolt. 3/8x16-1.25, with 1.05 thread if anybody else is looking for this part. The guys at Shamrock finally managed to find it buried deep in the super fine print of an old service manual. Not having one to compare it to, I hope these are the right bolts. After it quits raining we'll give it a shot.

Had to pull my trailer yesterday morning across town to pick up a refrigerator, and when we got to the storage place a steady stream of tranny fluid was pouring out from underneath. I looked under and all 4 bolts were missing and the tranny/x-fer case were sitting almost 1/4" apart from each other. I nursed my load home and parked it.
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Old 08-17-2006, 04:29 PM   #8
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I know the th350s use 3/8" bolts, I'm sure the 700s are the same unless they went metric. Either way it doesnt matter if you have to helicoil it anyway, you can put whatever you want in it.

Also, on the 350 the holes go all the way through the housing and there is room to get nuts on the bolts. If the 700 is built the same way I would suggest using some locking nuts in adittion to helicoiling the holes. The top holes will support most of the weight anyway.

It may be a little overkill, but it's better to over do it the first time than to have to redo it later.
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Originally Posted by RVREDDOG
Thats pretty much how I feel about it....You gone yet?
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Old 08-17-2006, 05:13 PM   #9
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I noticed that about those top bolts today myself!! I may end up doing that later, but I think I got something in there pretty good today. That whole metric thing sounded like a possibility last night in my bolt search, so I picked up 4, grade 8 10mm-1.5x40mm's as well. After trying the 3/8's bolts I mentioned earlier with limited success I tried one of the metrics. Worked like a charm. They're a little longer than what was in there and I added an internal lockwasher for a little more bite. They definitely tightened things up, but those motor mounts look horrible.

The popping sound is still there, and I think I've come to a conclusion on it's origin as well. The nose of the starter had to be ground down a little to get clearance for the flywheel. I still havn't figured out exactly why, but it did. Anyhow, I noticed while checking the flywheel bolts that the ends on the starter teeth are getting kinda chewed up. The starter's condition was iffy to begin with (it takes 3 or 5 slipping cranks sometimes to get it running), and I believe the gear isn't retracting well. It's fine when sitting, but under load there's enough flex for the flywheel to get into the teeth.
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