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Finally a Shop!

11K views 125 replies 40 participants last post by  Bruiser 
#1 ·
Well after selling the toy and now selling our home, didn't think it would sell so quick (on the market less than 10 days), we are getting ready to one either build a new house on 5-10 acres or two buy a house already built on 5-10 acres. So either way I will finally be getting a much needed shop to build my projects in.

Here is a drawing from mueller buildings on a 40x60 with 3 bays. I need to call them on Monday to rais the last/3rd bay ceiling height to 16' in order to get an RV or whatever in there.

What all would you guys that have shops or want a shop do or do different when building one? I've got a few ideas but would like to hear others from experience.
 

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#2 ·
Build it tall enough to put a car lift in it, electrical outlets everywhere, lots of light (can't have too much light), bathroom, sink, and a exhaust fan.
 
#10 ·
Definitely got all that on the list, is 14' eves with a 4:12 pitch good for a car lift/hoist?

220 welder outlet on three walls 200X on high enough for a carlift ... 110 out let's every 10 feet ... As GOOD sink for sure and a shitter and shower would be a plus ... A/C and Heat ;)
I want a/c and heat, but that will be last on the list. Have to see how the money is after it's done.

The BIGGEST Air Compressor. I suggest Quincy from tptools.com.
I have an IR 220V 5 HP 80 gallon upright right now. Plan on adding an IR air dryer when the shop is built and plumbing the whole shop with air lines and hose reels every 10 ft. or so on both sides of the front and back walls.

I think I'm going to put a cheapo CL washer and dryer in my next shop so I have some place to wash muddy, greasy, oily clothing without incurring the wrath of she who must be obeyed (or waiting for my turn at the washer).
Yep I agree, mine will have a bathroom/office/wash room in one corner of the shop. Plan on putting a game/media room above that to hang out when I'm in trouble with the boss. lol.

insulation. get vrr 3". they may try to talk you into the 1/4" thin crap but all that does is reflect heat. it wont do crap during the winter.
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Thanks for the heads up on the insulation, I will get with mueller on that tomorrow.

I am also puttting some 2'x4' T5 lights in it with reflectors to were it like it up pretty good.
What is a T5 light? I want good lighting for sure, that is one thing that is very important since I've had a 1 60w bulb in a 2 car garage with dark paneling for the past 4.5 years.

I have two 12x14 doors on the ends. I wanted to be able to pull an RV in it. I may never do it but it can and will be a good selling point. ...... Mueller has a fairly new skylight material out. i put 6 of them in. the are completely clear and guaranteed not to yellow. On sunny days I never need lights.
I've got mine setup on the mueller plans for the middle bay to be the pull through, I want to be able to pull the trailer in with the rig on it drop it and leave it for there for however long I need to without unloading everything. The last bay will be where we park the 5th wheel if we ever get one.

I didn't have any sky lights on the build but that makes really good sense and would definitely help on the electrical bill.bigok



Thanks for all the replies everyone, keep them coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
#4 ·
A/C and Heat ;)
Forgot that one. Having A/C in the shop is the cat's furry hind end. It makes working in the shop when it's 110° outside a lot more enjoyable and it's really nice keeping the doors shut when the bugs come out at night.
 
#7 ·
insulation. get vrr 3". they may try to talk you into the 1/4" thin crap but all that does is reflect heat. it wont do crap during the winter.

and electrical outlets EVERYWHERE. i know that has nothing to do with mueller, but still. 220 on every wall and 110 every 5 feet.
 
#8 ·
when i build mine i am building 2 40x60s on the 10 acres we live on. i will finish one of them out to be the house and the other the shop. i am putting 4 10x12 doors on it so i can drive thru it. I am also puttting some 2'x4' T5 lights in it with reflectors to were it like it up pretty good. And like everybody else has said, put electrical outlets everywhere. you wouldnt need that big of a panel because not all outlets will be used at the same time so you can put a lot of them on the same circuit.
 
#9 ·
I have 40x60. the insulation advice is very good advice. I have neighbor with the bubble wrap junk in his. it rains in shop nearly every night. Mine will get damp but not bad. his condensate really bad. With good air flow mine will stay about 20* cooler in the shop on the hottest days. I have two 12x14 doors on the ends. I wanted to be able to pull an RV in it. I may never do it but it can and will be a good selling point. I have an office built on one side with AC. I have car lift ready to go in and big compressor with two tanks on it for air volume. I plan to run air throughout the shop but for now a 100' hose is doing the job. Electrical outlets everywhere. 5 220 outlets 2 on one wall, one on the back wall and one on the side wall, there is one on the ceiling for the lift. I also have lights from hell. Not sure what they are but they take alittle while to warm up. I have 6 of them and never have any shadow in the shop while I working. It lights the shop up like night. Mueller has a fairly new skylight material out. i put 6 of them in. the are completely clear and guaranteed not to yellow. On sunny days I never need lights.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I like the drive though idea. But add 2 walk in doors. Front and rear. And windows that slide open. They help alot with lighting and cool days. Dont forget ridge vents. And the best thing of all is porchs over the door areas. It keeps the rain out.

On mine im think of doing just like what you have but one end well be no doors just windows. Like a shop area or fab area. But a open door mite be nice for cool days.
 
#18 ·
And one bat are all of them with a little car port of kicker to keep the rain out about the doors. And the little ones to.
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I read this about 10 times and can't figure out what your talking about. Can you explain a little better. Me no comprendo!
 
#13 ·
I wouldnt go with Mueller. They are expensive.....you gotta pay for that name. Whatever size eves you have your doors will be 2' shorter. So 14' eves will net a 12' door. As for the skylights everyone I talked to said that hail will bust them and they end up leaking after several years. I was dead set on them and was talked out fo them by my builder. I recommend this guy, Jim Challinor, 902-262-7137. He was the actual builder of mine. He builds for several big players. Apache being one of them. He designs all there stuff and builds all the beams, etc. You have seen mine, it is well built, IMO. Yours is pretty much like mine but a little taller and more roof pitch. WHATEVER YOU DO PUT A FRONT PORCH ON IT LIKE MINE. That is is the best money I have ever spent!! I wish I had one in the back and wish the front was a little deeper.
 
#15 ·
That is all true. Plan your Door and eve height well. However, I have 2 hurricanes on mine and 4 hails storms. One with golfballs sized hail. I am sure the metal is dented on the roof but the skylights are great. No leaking either 57 trees down in the first and 13 in the last, no damage to that mueller building at all. Not event the hurricane rated doors. Even though it cost me about $3000 more than a private contractor that is well known in our area, I had no damage. All his has some, little but some. He did erect mine and has since changed his plans around and suppliers. These sky lights are not like the old the ones that would haze, yellow and get brittle.

I put my doors on the ends because of the location of the shop and I wanted the full 60 foot so i could have my truck and all in it.
 
#19 ·
Stout, I paln on using conventional garage doors instead of the roll ups. After looking at most of the 5th wheels I will need a 16' tall door so that 1 bay will need to be 18' in height.

I will get with Mueller tomorrow on all the changes I need to make to the orginial quote and post up what the material cost for the building will be. Right now it is 15,777.00 with 12' eves all the way across, insulated walls/roof (cheap stuff), gutters/downspouts, 3 10' ridge vents, 1 4x7 walk door, 1 6x7 walk door and 4 framed in openings (no doors).

Thumper I plan on covered porches both front and back. Ten foot wide on the back and twenty foot wide on the front. The back will be used for metal storage and there will be an air compressor house back there as well.
 
#20 ·
Make sure you get the big ridge vents.....the ones like I got that you can open and shut. They are more money of course. Add some windows son! You cant beat natural light. Most all of these local metal builder peeps use Overhead Door Company. You can prolly just have said builder put in the openings and then contract ODC yourself an save some coin. Just make sure you talk to ODC about your opening size so you dont end up with some oddball size that is extra expensive. Do the gutters for sure, money well spent. Im sure you know that galvalume color is cheaper than colors. Your concrete for that with porches is gonna be some $$$$. Prolly in the neighborhood of $15K. Not sure what concrete prices are right now though. IIRC the overhead doors are about a G a piece. The buildings arent that high seems like till you start adding all the BS stuff....lol!
 
#27 ·
I will ask about the ridge vents, didn't know they made the kind you can open and shut. Not to much on having windows, worried about prying eyes. Maybe put some up high? I've got a local garage door guy that I've dealt with on the last 2 house garage doors I've had replaced or worked on, he will be doing the doors on the shop as well. On the concrete I plan on the front 20' porch being concrete but the rear porch I will use gravel for most of it expect where the compressor house will be and the rear exit bay door will be. I agree though the concrete will be lots of $$$$$.

it is the type of lamp that you put in the fixture. ill get you the part number to the type of fixture i am actually talking about. they are a very nice fixture, especially if you get it with the reflector.
That would be great!

My biggest suggestion would be to make sure they polish and seal the concrete. I didn't and have to use a shop vac instead of a broom.
My dad had a shop like that, it was very "chaulky" and would rub off on your hand just by touching it. My buddy used a roll on sealer after his was poured and it has held up pretty good after about 4 yrs of use. I'll ask about the polish and sealing.
 
#21 ·
Not sure what lighting you plan to use, but the cheap flourecsents don't work well below certain temps (32*F for the wal mart brands). Make sure and find out the operating temps if you go fluorescents.

The roll up doors tend to leave an air gap when closed on my dads shop. He hates it, just something else to consider (I do realize you mentioned your planning on regular garage doors).
 
#26 ·
Definately do the windows. I just did 2 doors on the same side so there's not any breeze. You can save a little money and just have 2 220 on 50' cords that way they always reach. Just a suggjestion but if you use a welder and plasma put 2 receptacles on the end that way you don't have to unplug or have cords streched everywhere. On the lights 2x4 4 lamp T5 fixtures are perfect and get 6500k lamps. The 6500 is the color and it like daylight. I wouldn't spend extra on the 0 degree ballast. Regular one will still fire they will just be dim until the lights warm them up. I second the regular garage door. They are cheaper and you can insulate them, and openers are affordable. My biggest suggestion would be to make sure they polish and seal the concrete. I didn't and have to use a shop vac instead of a broom.
 
#29 ·
I thought all concrete was power troweled. I didnt ask for it in mine but it was. I had the porches broom finished. Eric you dont need all that high dollar lighting. I got normal 4 8' lights in my 40x40 garage part and they are plenty bright. I got them at Lowes. As for the windows just weld burgarlar bars on the inside perlins and not worry about it. if they are curious they will just unscrew the R-panel and come on it. I would rather them window shop to see if they want anything before tearing my shop up for nothing.....lol
 
#30 ·
It does not have to be power troweled but it is better. When they it can be draged to smooth it and hand troweled, then brushed. For the porches, driveways, walkways that light broom finish is fine for for a garage floor it sucks. I actually had two slabs poured. the first guy really messed it up. He lost, we had another poured. The slab powdered really bad because the damn guys did not start working the concrete for four hours. I kept trying to get the Job stopped, finally at the end of the day I had the police there and the owner of the company. We ended up in mediation. i learned alot about concrete contractors.

****One thing you want to get signed is a release of all liability from anyone that does any work. make sure it is worded so all that all Subcontractors they hire also have to sign one. Make the concrete supplier sign one as well. I did this and was lucky I did. the first house we had I did not and they did not pay for the concrete. The concrete then put a lien on the house. I ended up winning that battle easy but it was a hassle. it made the next problem, a more serious problem, go alot easier.
 
#31 ·
Sticker Shock

Well after changing all the things on the building that was discussed in the thread the estimated cost without any electrical is just a tad over 50K. OUCH!!!!!!!!

I gave your guy a call Thumper and left a message, will see what he can do one for.

I may have to downsize it a little. lol.
 
#36 ·
Well after changing all the things on the building that was discussed in the thread the estimated cost without any electrical is just a tad over 50K. OUCH!!!!!!!!

I gave your guy a call Thumper and left a message, will see what he can do one for.

I may have to downsize it a little. lol.



50K does seem a lil high for just a building, my lil brother works for Mueller in Odessa and my plan is to build 2 40x60 and finish one out as a house and the other has a shop and stay under 100K.
 
#32 ·
One way to cut cost is the porch ideas front and rear. You can pour the same size slab. But you only have half the enclosed area. But have the porchs built when more money come along you can enclose them.
And ive worked in a shop were the windows were 10 or 12 foot off the ground. Because of the part of town it was in. They work fine for lighting.
 
#33 ·
Most all concrete contractors use a moisture barrier under the slab but make sure they do. The condensation that Stouttrout's friend has is probably caused by pouring the slab directly on the ground and the temp difference draws moisture up through the concrete. Yes machine trial the slab, mine is a not and it eats up casters and scratches up tools but, I LOVE my shop!
 
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