Lets talk Skid Plates

Turbos10

Been looking at redoing mine. I bellied up hard and bent my skid and tranny pan recently so it is time to fortify things. I plan to cover from the engine pan to the rear of the atlas.

I currently have 1/4" plate aluminum from frame rail to frame rail, but have no support in the middle. It rest on the belly of the tranny, the bottom of the atlas mount and the bottom of the atlas itself....no good obviously. I was looking at adding supports across, but then I really need to lower the skid...it needs extending to the front...aluminum is not as strong...

So, now I am thinking that I am just going to start from scratch. I like the lighter weight of aluminum, but I am willing to add 100lb if that is what it takes to keep from tearing stuff up. What I want to know is what thickness you guys are using on steel skids and how they have or have not held up. Also, what are you using for support and distance between supports under the plate.

My plan now is 1/4" plate, but I am wondering if 3/16" would work. I want something that will last from now on, but want to keep weight as low as reasonably possible.. I am planning on using 1 1/4" square and round tube and it will be span as much as 12" between supports.

Let me know whatcha got.

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CJ2 fiberglass and tube buggy, L67 supercharged 6, RVB Art Carr 700R4, 3.8 Atlas, 60's welded/detroit, 40" Sticky Creepies, and a whole lotta SLOW because I dont want to break any more.

Citizen Rider

doesnt sound like your wanting to change up how anything is mounted drivetrain wise. But here is how i did mine. I built a beef crossmember after snapping my trans in half.


then i took 1/4 plate and use some pieces of 1/4" angle iron i had and made upriggers to the side of the frame and bolted it in to keep anything from being able to drag.


I then built a tube frame forward to under the motor mounts and welded more 1/4 plate to the bottom of it, then used more angle iron pieces on top of the 1/4" plate to beable to remove it all in two different pieces.



I turtled out on green mamba extension completely on the skid and nothing gave and shows no sign of even being bellied out. Im really happy with how it came out and protects everything.

__________________
Hang on , we can do this!

83 K5 blazer 60/14 detroits 42" tsl's 350/465/203/205 119" wb

Turbos10

That is very very similar to what I have planned. I do not want the tranny/tcase mounted to the skid and I plan to make it removable by hinging down at the rear first so it is manageable to let down.

What size tube did you use?


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__________________
CJ2 fiberglass and tube buggy, L67 supercharged 6, RVB Art Carr 700R4, 3.8 Atlas, 60's welded/detroit, 40" Sticky Creepies, and a whole lotta SLOW because I dont want to break any more.

72blazer

Here's mine built by Kevin


Planning to modify it a little to make room for the 1 link.


Edit: mine is 1/4" and is bowed a little at the tail end from smashing and high centering it a few times...but mine is a heavy bish.

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The Web Wheeler's '72
Motorsport Syndicate:::Edinburg TX
H&H Fabrication:::Amarillo TX

Turbos10

Is that 1/4" plate? The whole pallet jack for moving thing is what makes me cringe about getting away from aluminum. Right now removal is a 2 minute one man job. eek


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__________________
CJ2 fiberglass and tube buggy, L67 supercharged 6, RVB Art Carr 700R4, 3.8 Atlas, 60's welded/detroit, 40" Sticky Creepies, and a whole lotta SLOW because I dont want to break any more.

72blazer

Yes 1/4". It's a heavy mofo but its good peace of mind that protects from the tranny pan to the lomax output. Takes a good while to remove alone.

__________________

The Web Wheeler's '72
Motorsport Syndicate:::Edinburg TX
H&H Fabrication:::Amarillo TX

Citizen Rider

1.5" hrew. Same as my cage. I really like that i can do it all in pieces, Depending on how far or what i need to get to.

__________________
Hang on , we can do this!

83 K5 blazer 60/14 detroits 42" tsl's 350/465/203/205 119" wb