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questions about 52" springs on the front????



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Old 09-27-2005, 08:21 PM   #1
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questions about 52" springs on the front????

are any of you guys running zero rates with your 52" springs on the front? I put my 52" springs in the front this past weekend and also put my zero rate back in moving it another 1.5" forward. Looks great I shouldn't be hitting the 44's on the firewall anymore, but I'm affraid my steering is gonna bind big time. I run ORD high steer with hydro assist. I haven't put the tie rod and drag link back on yet but its not looking to good right now. I'm sure I can figure it out but I thought if anyone was running this combination they might could save me some time. I should really goahead and go full hydro but I really don't have the money for a orbital valve right now.
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Old 09-27-2005, 08:43 PM   #2
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from what i've read over at ck5 high steer and the 52's don't work too well together. you might have to move the tie rod completely behind the diff.


with that much movement, low lift and 44s aren't you going to start hitting the radiator?
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Old 09-27-2005, 09:00 PM   #3
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With my 52's and high steer I had to cut my U-bolts down even with the nuts, or it would hit when turned all the way right. This time I'm going full hydro, so that will not be a problem. With your zero-rate moving that axle forward I don't think you will have a problem with the U-bolts. Maybe you can beef your drag link up if you are worried about the angle.
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Old 09-28-2005, 04:49 AM   #4
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Keep me posted on this,its exactly what I was thinking about doing.
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Old 09-28-2005, 06:24 AM   #5
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with that much movement, low lift and 44s aren't you going to start hitting the radiator?
I'm not sure about the radiator but it will for sure have to be tapered or no fenders at all. the radiator support will have to be cut all the way to the radiator.
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Old 09-28-2005, 06:28 AM   #6
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With my 52's and high steer I had to cut my U-bolts down even with the nuts, or it would hit when turned all the way right. This time I'm going full hydro, so that will not be a problem. With your zero-rate moving that axle forward I don't think you will have a problem with the U-bolts. Maybe you can beef your drag link up if you are worried about the angle.
the u-bolts don't seem to be a problem. and the drag link is very thick wall DOM made by ORD so I'm sure it will be fine. I'll try to get some pics this weekend so you can see what I'm talking about.
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Old 09-28-2005, 07:48 AM   #7
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Now that I think about it, you will be fine. The reason I say that is because of your hydr assist. If we think about the way it works: when your steering gets in a bind the hydro should take over, right? The hydro is still pushing and pulling in a straight line. So the only thing you have to worry about will be the drag link hitting the axle. You might need to reset your pitman arm over on another gear tooth to get a full turn to the right, maybe.
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Old 09-28-2005, 08:47 AM   #8
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Nope cant run normal hi-steer with 52's. The tie rod and draglink will pretty much be on top of one another.
Only choice is to move it behind the axle.
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Old 09-28-2005, 07:22 PM   #9
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They need to build a spacer to go under the arm and over the axle, or just make thicker arms, so the tire rod doesn't hit the spring.
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Old 09-28-2005, 09:13 PM   #10
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it seems if I move the drag link behond the axle it will be getting awfully close to the oil pan
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Old 09-28-2005, 09:45 PM   #11
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who sells high steer arms that go behind the axle? it may be cheaper to buy an orbital vavle.
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Old 09-29-2005, 05:05 AM   #12
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who sells high steer arms that go behind the axle? it may be cheaper to buy an orbital vavle.
http://www.northwestfab.com/dana60steeringarm.html

Bluetorch Double Ended Arms

WFO Concepts I think ACProKeith runs these on his K5.

OTT will build you some as well.



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Old 09-29-2005, 05:29 PM   #13
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well if I can't get mine to work I may be going back to just crossover with draglink in the stock position. I'm broke right now.
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Old 09-29-2005, 07:30 PM   #14
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I think you mean your tie rod not the draglink.

Will the tie rod be too short for the stock location???



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Old 09-29-2005, 07:48 PM   #15
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yeah I guess. I still have the stock tie rod that I could sleeve and use.
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Old 09-29-2005, 10:06 PM   #16
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what was wrong with the way it was set up before? your rig didn't wheel like you wanted it to? or do you really need all that flex?
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:18 AM   #17
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Fulltop I read on the other post your Pittman arm is hitting? What steering box are you using? The 4x4 one or the 2 wheel drive one? I've seen where people are using a drop pittman arm and the arm hits like your talking about. Have you tried going back to a stock pittman arm. You shouldn't need a drop pittman with high steer.
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Old 10-02-2005, 08:30 AM   #18
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what was wrong with the way it was set up before? your rig didn't wheel like you wanted it to? or do you really need all that flex?

I really didn't do it to gain flex, I did it to gain some clearance for the tires against the firewall.
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Old 10-02-2005, 08:57 AM   #19
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Fulltop I read on the other post your Pittman arm is hitting? What steering box are you using? The 4x4 one or the 2 wheel drive one? I've seen where people are using a drop pittman arm and the arm hits like your talking about. Have you tried going back to a stock pittman arm. You shouldn't need a drop pittman with high steer.
I run a 2wd box. and a dropped ford pitman arm. the pttman arm isn't hitting anything.
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Old 10-02-2005, 09:06 AM   #20
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Fulltop I read on the other post your Pittman arm is hitting? What steering box are you using? The 4x4 one or the 2 wheel drive one? I've seen where people are using a drop pittman arm and the arm hits like your talking about. Have you tried going back to a stock pittman arm. You shouldn't need a drop pittman with high steer.
my pitman arm is not hitting anything. I was afraind that the tie rod and draglink where going to hit each other. I worked on it till about 2am saturday morning so we could go try it out saturday. I got it all back together and everything seemed to work fine. I mounted the ram to the diff gaurd and then the draglink. everything worked great.
we went out to a local spot to do alittle test and tune. everything was working good. steeringwas working good and seemed to be turning sharper than it ever has. we decided to try some tougher stuff. the first real ditch to cross and I here a pop no more steering. I rump out and look. the ram had pulled loose from the diff gaurd. pulled a chunk out of the gaurd and bent it pretty good. I thought oh well I'm gonna finish the day with no assist. I pull the ram the rest of the way of and plug the box and take off. Trying to take it easy and take the front out of 4wd everytime I need to turn. We go to the top of a pretty good climb. at the top we have to turn around and go back down the same way we came up. I turn aroung and drop the front off a little ledge and pull the front drive shaft apart. no problem I drop it and put it back together. This is where it gets bad. It had to explain it but I start down and the some how the front get in a bad bind and kicks the front all the way over to one side. next thing I know poer steering fluid is just pouring out of the back of the box. The tie rod and drag link were hitting each other and binding. the axle had the wheels turned so freaking sharp I noticed that the u joint cup on the axle shaft is broke. In the proced of all this trying to get he wheels straight again I bent the steering wheel to the point it is no good. I also noticed that when I was cranking the steering wheel the frame is flexing right where the front crossmember is riveted to the frame. We finally get the wheels straight and get it out. So now I really don't know what to do next. I need to look at it and see what its gonna take to fix it.
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Old 10-02-2005, 09:23 AM   #21
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WOW!!! Sounds like you had a interesting day to say the least. Maybe time to build a front brace across the front frame horns to add some strength.



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Old 10-02-2005, 09:27 AM   #22
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yeah thats what I'm thinking, if its not to late. I haven't looked at it real close, but someone said it has poped one of the rivets out of the crossmember. BTW at full stuff the tires still hit the firwall.
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Old 10-02-2005, 12:01 PM   #23
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We are getting some good info. off your rig Fulltop, Thanks. Sounds like you need some bump stops on you frame and axle.
Question: Do you think 42" would hit? I bet if I cleaned my firewall off with a grinder it wouldn't matter if it rubbed some.
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Old 10-02-2005, 12:23 PM   #24
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Ouch, i thought the crossover/hi-steer did away with such issues? Hope it didnt tweak your frame.
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Old 10-02-2005, 01:02 PM   #25
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Just park it untill you can go full hydro. That will take all that pressure off your frame and limit the amount the tires can turn.
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