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Rear mount radiator



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Old 01-15-2013, 02:00 AM   #1
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Question Rear mount radiator

Im going to be mounting my Fords radiator in the bed due to room under the hood. I did this on my toyota and had all kinds of hell getting water flow and air outta the system. Has anyone done this before? I see the mud guys do it alot. Just dont want to have to do it twice.

I was also wondering what kind of tube i could use to run coolant through that would not corrode easily? My toyotas PO had used what looked like pieces of an aluminum gate??

Thanks.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:06 AM   #2
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I have seen several people use exhaust pipe for rear mounting.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:29 AM   #3
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A galvanize pipe wouldn't corrode. Aluminized exhaust pipe may be you answer. If you use untreated steel mock everything up then paint the inside. Use a string tied to a rag soaked in the paint blow the string through the pipe with an air blower then drag the rag through the pipe? Or block of one end fill the pipe with paint then empty it.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:45 AM   #4
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Just get aluminum tube, do it right the 1st time! 1 1/4 .053 wall 6061 is 4.40 a foot @ aircraft spruce
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ube_6061t6.php
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:47 AM   #5
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Man cool idea on paint. Lol....but I know the ethylene glycol will eat the paint and chips will clog the t-stat and water pump. Bad news

I run mine in the rear. I use copper tubing for 98% of my lines. I matched the same size inlet and outlet size of the radiator to my copper tubing size. This is very important to flow rate and pressure. I first used all copper tubing and soldered all of my bends with 45 and 90deg fittings. It worked for a day and I had small leaks. Mainly because of the angles I had to work with in getting my torch to reach the large fittings. Either way, my mistake.

I replaced almost all of my joints with bulk flex rubber hose. I found that the price is the same to run 100% rubber vs. copper tubing and copper was available right down the road.

The cool part about copper is you can paint it to match any color scheme you have and looks really clean if you want it to. I tried galvanized first and it wrinkled up like an old lady real fast and I hated it. Cheap but for a reason. Lol

I have never had trouble with air pockets. I always pull my upper rad hose at my t-stat housing then fill until water starts to come out then crank it up and overfill until I have no air. Hook everything back up and top off all while it's still running.

I really like the setup. My copper tubing rubs in areas and I like how strong it is versus a rubber line that can rub a hole through over time.

Good luck man. :-) take some pics when you're done. Lemme know if you want pics of my setup
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:58 AM   #6
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You can get aluminum electrical conduit as well, that's what I planned to use when I thought about rear mounting mine. And decent electrical supply house will have it.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBASTM View Post
Man cool idea on paint. Lol....but I know the ethylene glycol will eat the paint and chips will clog the t-stat and water pump. Bad news

I run mine in the rear. I use copper tubing for 98% of my lines. I matched the same size inlet and outlet size of the radiator to my copper tubing size. This is very important to flow rate and pressure. I first used all copper tubing and soldered all of my bends with 45 and 90deg fittings. It worked for a day and I had small leaks. Mainly because of the angles I had to work with in getting my torch to reach the large fittings. Either way, my mistake.

I replaced almost all of my joints with bulk flex rubber hose. I found that the price is the same to run 100% rubber vs. copper tubing and copper was available right down the road.

The cool part about copper is you can paint it to match any color scheme you have and looks really clean if you want it to. I tried galvanized first and it wrinkled up like an old lady real fast and I hated it. Cheap but for a reason. Lol

I have never had trouble with air pockets. I always pull my upper rad hose at my t-stat housing then fill until water starts to come out then crank it up and overfill until I have no air. Hook everything back up and top off all while it's still running.

I really like the setup. My copper tubing rubs in areas and I like how strong it is versus a rubber line that can rub a hole through over time.

Good luck man. :-) take some pics when you're done. Lemme know if you want pics of my setup
Copper is cool, our spitfire uses copper for cooling pipes,
All the US liquid cooled stuff uses aluminum tube, air bleed ports @ high spots.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:43 AM   #8
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F-in sweet! Aluminum is boobs for sure I just can't afford those looks. Haha

I like the bends in the copper. That's smooth lookin
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:49 AM   #9
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Yah its really good work! British, but beautiful!
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:53 AM   #10
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I got about 50 feet of aluminum 1.5 tube I'm going to use.
You have got to put air bleeders at the high points to make that system work.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:54 AM   #11
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Never even thought of the copper idea! THanks, and yea post up pics, the more the better!
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:07 AM   #12
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBASTM View Post
Man cool idea on paint. Lol....but I know the ethylene glycol will eat the paint and chips will clog the t-stat and water pump. Bad news

I run mine in the rear. I use copper tubing for 98% of my lines. I matched the same size inlet and outlet size of the radiator to my copper tubing size. This is very important to flow rate and pressure. I first used all copper tubing and soldered all of my bends with 45 and 90deg fittings. It worked for a day and I had small leaks. Mainly because of the angles I had to work with in getting my torch to reach the large fittings. Either way, my mistake.

I replaced almost all of my joints with bulk flex rubber hose. I found that the price is the same to run 100% rubber vs. copper tubing and copper was available right down the road.

The cool part about copper is you can paint it to match any color scheme you have and looks really clean if you want it to. I tried galvanized first and it wrinkled up like an old lady real fast and I hated it. Cheap but for a reason. Lol

I have never had trouble with air pockets. I always pull my upper rad hose at my t-stat housing then fill until water starts to come out then crank it up and overfill until I have no air. Hook everything back up and top off all while it's still running.

I really like the setup. My copper tubing rubs in areas and I like how strong it is versus a rubber line that can rub a hole through over time.

Good luck man. :-) take some pics when you're done. Lemme know if you want pics of my setup
I would love to see pics of your setup.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:29 PM   #14
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:18 PM   #15
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The lines running down pass. side tucked into the subframe

Just behind the pass. seat where the lines come up to tuck out of the way before reaching the radiator.

Where the lower line connects to rad and upper line runs across the top of my fuel cell to the top of rad.

I forgot to get a pic of how my rad mounts so this is all I have



Nothing as fancy and smooth as aircraft mounting but all is tucked away out of view anyway. Lol

Hope this helps somehow
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:09 PM   #16
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Very cool. Thank you!
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:32 PM   #17
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on my rig i just used 1 3/4 tube...same as on the chassis.....basic steal tube....zero rust issues once i put antifreeze in it......it has rust and corrosion inhibitors in it.....

think about it.....if you have an iron block motor.....why doesnt it rust and corrode ........because of the antifreeze......
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:33 PM   #18
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oh...and with the steel tubing i can just tackweld it to the chassis instead of havin to figure out how to secure it
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:14 AM   #19
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So how is the noise and heat having it mounted behind you?

I'm trying to find ways not to run it in the rear.

Mainly for those two reasons.
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:35 PM   #20
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I feel no heat and the noise is not terrible. Just cooling fans running front and rear for rad and coolers.

Only way to lose the noise is to have a full body rig
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Old 02-14-2013, 03:01 PM   #21
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I feel no heat and the noise is not terrible. Just cooling fans running front and rear for rad and coolers.

Only way to lose the noise is to have a full body rig
Thanks. Not sure if I'll be able to keep it up front or not. Guess the front axle placement will dictate that. It'd be less stuff running front to rear that way. We'll see.
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