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uptravel in suspension??



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Old 02-18-2008, 06:13 PM   #1
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uptravel in suspension??

Is uptravel needed in the front suspension? I see jeep all the time on 44's with no up travel at all and they do great. I decided I may redo my front suspension and go with my original idea of moving the stock rear 56's to the front and run them. I put them in today and the truck is now 6"s lower but the crossmember under the motor is sitting on top of the diff. I also need more clearence under the spings between the spring and the steering cylinder. Not sure if this is a good idea or not but what i am thinking about is building some front spring perches that are angled to get my right pinion angle and be about 3" tall or so. They would be welded to the axle and gusseted so they will be really strong and it wouldnt really be the same thing as running blocks in the front. I already plan on having a traction bar on the front to control axle wrap so that wont be a problem. The only thing that I am wandering is if having no uptravel will be a problem.
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Old 02-18-2008, 06:43 PM   #2
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no uptravel on mud rigs? or NO uptravel on trail rigs? that's a big difference there. i know the standard in rockcrawling/trail riding, from what I've read, and what I'm kinda setting up my Blazer up with is with my 15" shocks is 10" down, 5" up...give or take an inch, haven't decided. I do remember seeing John Cappa, who ran TTC a couple of years ago, with 1" of travel with rocks and 49s lol. that's crazy. but it can work.
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Old 02-18-2008, 08:28 PM   #3
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Just need to remember when one side drops, the farther it drops the other side has to go up.

For the front you can also get longer shackles which will give you 1-2" of clearance. You an also cut off your front spring hangers and install a 4x4 then install your spring perches. Look at www.chuckstrucks.net and see what they sell to get a visual. Easy to build.
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:28 PM   #4
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Uptravel isnt all that important, my s10 will probably only have 2-3" of up travel. You will need some good bumpstops and keep in mind that you wont be able to go too fast without bottoming out all the time.
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:39 PM   #5
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The truck is a rock crawler/ trail truck. I already have 7" shackles and I have already cut off the stock front mount and put a piece of 4"x4" tubing across the front. ..
Here you can see what I did.





I have a set of pro comp 15" travel shocks that will be going on there. Also The bumpstops I have are off of a F-250 if I remember right. They are about 3"x4" solid rubber. I could build a mount off of the out side of the frame rail to where they will hit the top of the leaf springs. With the stock rear 56" springs and 7" shackles the truck is probably sitting just about as high as it was with 6" susp 3" body and 38.5" boggers and now it is on 49's. This is closer to what I had originally pictured the truck looking. Super low with 49's.
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Old 02-19-2008, 08:36 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by MUDDSLINGER View Post
Just need to remember when one side drops, the farther it drops the other side has to go up.
I understand the logic, but once the axle hits the bumpstop will the opposite tire not begin to arc rather than still rise? Is there a percentage that's commonly considered a good amount, or is just the 2/3 already mentioned about average?


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Uptravel isnt all that important, my s10 will probably only have 2-3" of up travel. You will need some good bumpstops and keep in mind that you wont be able to go too fast without bottoming out all the time.
S10's don't have much more than that to begin with, do they Zach? Sure doesn't feel like it on mine. Should more uptravel be added to get a smoother ride, or will having more downtravel improve that?
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:08 AM   #7
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I agree about the s10s not having much uptravel stock. I was always bottoming out the white truck. Of course my fenders usually absorbed some of the shock. lol

If you are bouncing off the bumpstops all the time, then more uptravel can help. You can also look at using a different spring rate or different shocks.

So are you doing a SAS on that little blazer?
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:14 AM   #8
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Yup. Cheap and simple. S10/XJ mutt.

Trying to decide if I should keep the basic XJ geometry, or go ahead and add more travel. I'm mostly doing it to get more clearance and flex, not so much to have bullet proof running gear.
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:18 AM   #9
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Cool. Good luck with it. Just be sure you have plenty of patience. Do some searching if you havent already, there's a few sites that have some decent info on the swap.

You going to the river this weekend?
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:34 AM   #10
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Oh, I dunno. I thought it was last weekend .

I've tried for 2 years now to go, and both times ended up with a broken/parked vehicle. I'm not sure I want to sacrifice another one before even getting to New Deal. It could happen I suppose, but nobody will know until I show up .
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Old 02-19-2008, 01:10 PM   #11
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I went out and looked at it a little more this morning and I think that I can make it work. I am gonna raise the motor about 3" which I should have plenty of room to do since I have a 3" body lift. Then I can rebuild the crossmember under the motor to where it is flat across the bottom of the frame or really close to it. I know that raising the motor will make the COG higher but this is the only I see to get the truck sitting low like I originally wanted and get some up travel. By the time I get done I am thinking I should have about 5-6"s of up travel on the passenger side and even more on the driver.


This is how it sits with the 5" lift 56" rear springs.



This is where it is sitting now with the stock rear 56" springs moved the front.





















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Old 02-19-2008, 01:17 PM   #12
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Won't the heavier axles and lower overall stance come pretty close to cancelling out any effects of lifting the motor 3"?

It looks better in this set of pics, either way...
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Old 02-19-2008, 01:19 PM   #13
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Won't the heavier axles and lower overall stance come pretty close to cancelling out any effects of lifting the motor 3"?

It looks better in this set of pics, either way...
That is what I am thinking. Hell the tires weigh in about 300lbs a piece so I am thinking raising the motor 3" will especially since I lowered the truck about 6 or more. RIght now it is 31" to the bottom of the 4x4 tubing across the front of the frame.
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Old 02-19-2008, 03:42 PM   #14
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Your lift springs are flat. They provide no lift. Link the front and move your axle forward to keep it low.
Rockwell + low stance= no workie for leafs under the motor
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Old 02-19-2008, 03:53 PM   #15
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Your lift springs are flat. They provide no lift. Link the front and move your axle forward to keep it low.
Rockwell + low stance= no workie for leafs under the motor
Those springs that are on there now that are flat are the stock rear springs that were on my truck.
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Old 02-19-2008, 04:01 PM   #16
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Your lift springs are flat. They provide no lift. Link the front and move your axle forward to keep it low.
Rockwell + low stance= no workie for leafs under the motor
Other than not providing any lift from the springs would it hurt anything that those springs are flat? Really I think that I can make this all work with those springs and the truck sits really low. Also I will end up with more uptravel than I was thinking because if I raise the motor and build a flatter crossmember under the motor then I can just mount a bumpstop to that crossmember that will hit the top of the diff. Then the axle will just pivot off of that point and I will get good travel at the tires.
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Old 02-19-2008, 07:54 PM   #17
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I like the second pic set up. The lower the better. i just droped my rig another 4" and only have llike 3" uptravel and the bump stop well compress about a 1". For a rockwell rig mines low by most standerd rockwell rigs. i built the rig for 46"s but ill probly never go bigger then 44's.

The biggest thing to watch out for is room for drive line and it clearing the exsaulst and the brake rotor gets in the way most time to.

Push that motor up it want hurt nothing. Lower the better.

Knew idea. If you want the truck to sit low. more work but i had to do it. When i built mine. The second time. Move the front forward were it clears the oil pan and short'n the rear. Looks like your tire well get into the cab quick. And them tire arent that wide.
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Old 02-19-2008, 07:57 PM   #18
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do it like this
my buddy has wheeled it like this and loves it. you aren't going to be haulin ***. don't move your motor up

still flexes very well
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:37 PM   #19
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I like the second pic set up. The lower the better. i just droped my rig another 4" and only have llike 3" uptravel and the bump stop well compress about a 1". For a rockwell rig mines low by most standerd rockwell rigs. i built the rig for 46"s but ill probly never go bigger then 44's.

The biggest thing to watch out for is room for drive line and it clearing the exsaulst and the brake rotor gets in the way most time to.

Push that motor up it want hurt nothing. Lower the better.

Knew idea. If you want the truck to sit low. more work but i had to do it. When i built mine. The second time. Move the front forward were it clears the oil pan and short'n the rear. Looks like your tire well get into the cab quick. And them tire arent that wide.
I put the rotor on the front output tonight to look at the clearance and I can make room for it. The other thing was the exhaust hitting the front driveshaft. I found a set of shorty headers for a monte carlo that are on there now but the exhaust will be really close to the front driveshaft so raising the motor 3" will help with that too since the exhaust can follow along the bottom of the cab better.
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:38 PM   #20
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do it like this
my buddy has wheeled it like this and loves it. you aren't going to be haulin ***. don't move your motor up

I have already seen pics of BJ's truck and seeing him do this and have the truck sitting that low with a diesel in and made me want to make mine a lot lower too. Also with the way he has his bumpstops it will really limit the uptravel a lot. If I spend a few hours raising the motor then I can just put a bumpstop on crossmember under the motor and I will gain some decent up travel at the wheels.
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Old 02-19-2008, 10:19 PM   #21
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the bumpstops only limit uptravel not actual articulation.
i'll call him tomorrow and ask him how much uptravel his shocks have. but im pretty sure its about 4" or so and he uses it with articulation
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Old 02-20-2008, 07:11 AM   #22
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All I have is about 3-4" uptravel. The shock is positioned so that it takes more travel than the bumpstop length. I tried to make it droop a lot.

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Old 02-20-2008, 02:27 PM   #23
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talked to bj today he said his shocks have about 4" or uptravel 5" max and he uses all of it with the bumpstop mounted how it is. the bumpstop completely compresses.
i would do that long before raises up the motor.
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Old 02-21-2008, 12:30 AM   #24
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talked to bj today he said his shocks have about 4" or uptravel 5" max and he uses all of it with the bumpstop mounted how it is. the bumpstop completely compresses.
i would do that long before raises up the motor.
The motor has to get raised that is really all there is to it. OR raise the whole truck. Even if I do it like he has it like you said the bumpstops are still gonna compress about 4-5"s. Well right now I have one inch between the top of the diff and the bottom of the crossmember.
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Old 02-21-2008, 02:42 AM   #25
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well what im saying is i can't imagine his truck has that different of an engine crossmember, especially since a 6.2 and a big block are probably similar as far as oil pan clearance goes.
move the axle up if that will help. i'd do whatever you can to not move the motor up, that would be alot more work

edit how much would you have to move the axle up to not have to move the motor up?
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