Auto Body Guys: Best Epoxy Primer - Texas 4x4 Forum

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Old 03-27-2010, 04:27 PM   #1
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Auto Body Guys: Best Epoxy Primer

Hi Y'all,

I'm hoping some of you are auto body guys, or have some experience in painting vehicles. As you know I'm about to strip down my cab. Since it will be sand blasted, I'm going to need to prime it pretty quickly. I need to know what the absolute best epoxy primer is out there. I want to seal this cab up good and tight.

Any help you can offer would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Manny
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:14 PM   #2
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First when you say sand ballasted you don't mean with sand do you? If you use sand you might as well just haul it to the junk yard when your done. You mean media blasted don't you? Now as far as your question about primers. You can put a variety of products on it just make sure it's a SELF ETCHING primer sealer. The other thing to conceder is primers DO NOT have any UV protection and DO NOT seal against moisture. Hope this helped
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:38 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Elcaminoman View Post
First when you say sand ballasted you don't mean with sand do you? If you use sand you might as well just haul it to the junk yard when your done. You mean media blasted don't you? Now as far as your question about primers. You can put a variety of products on it just make sure it's a SELF ETCHING primer sealer. The other thing to conceder is primers DO NOT have any UV protection and DO NOT seal against moisture. Hope this helped
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:54 PM   #4
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Okay,

Here's my dilemma:

A. I have rust issues on my firewall, both inside and outside that need to be addressed.

B. The blue paint on the truck is the type that needs to come completely off (contains clear in it). Otherwise, I'll have orange peel galore.


If I sand blast, that will:

A. Remove all rust and help me to correct any weak issues in the cab.

B. Etch the metal so an epoxy primer really holds to it.

C. Needs to be primed right away.



If I soda blast, that will:

A. Remove all the paint, but not touch any of the rust, which leaves me in trouble still.

B. Leaves the metal baby butt smooth, so it will still need to be sanded.

C. Can leave the film on it for 4-5 weeks max before priming. Easy cleanup.


Guys, I'm no body work expert, but I just don't know which way to go. I don't understand why you say with sand it must go to the junk yard? Please explain that to me.

If I go soda blast, will I know what is weak and needs to be replaced or not?

I have gotten all different answers from the paint crews. I need to figure this out so I have a game plan. If I don't need to tare everything apart I don't want to do that. So please give me good advice.

I'm having it blasted one way or the other, so don't try to convince me not to. I have no choice. Please tell me sand or soda and why.

Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:01 PM   #5
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I'm no body work expert but it is my understanding that if you sand blast sheetmetal it will end up so wavy that you will never be able to get it straight. Media blasting will clean the rust and old paint. While soda blasting will just strip the paint and does leave a film that must be sanded. I will be watching this as I have an old Scout that I woud like to have some panels soda blasted just to speed the process of stripping the paint along.
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:03 PM   #6
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Okay,

I just read something about soda blasting that has really moved me towards that direction. So I will pursue the soda. I understand that sand blasting does warp sheet metal and I don't want to have that happen to my rig. I understand that soda blasting can remove some rust, just not deep stuff. I'll cut out the old stuff and find it.

So back to my original question: What is the best epoxy primer out there to use?

Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:33 PM   #7
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See, this is the crap I hate!

I just did a Google search on "average cost of soda blasting a car" and all I got were posts on how the soda will leave a film after its done and that it is very difficult to get off. You can't tell that it is off. So when you go to paint, the paint will not adhere and it will flake off. If this is true, that's a disaster waiting to happen.

So now, I want to know why sand is not an option?
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:41 PM   #8
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soda blast or silica blast it manny , get vari prime or europrime self etching primer and spray it . just wash vehicle with soap and water first and then wipe with prep sol . if questions ask colortone paint and speak to emmitt(nickname is run) and tell him i sent you .he will hook you up
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:33 PM   #9
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why are you so set on blasting? trying to spend alot of money? why not just use a aircraft paint remover and do it yourself? itll take time yes, but you seem to have alot of that and it will get done to your quality. you can still take care of all rust issues and you can do a section at a time and have the individual sections painted seperatly assumming your painter is capable of matching the colors. if you paint each piece with a color coat after priming you wont have to worry about it rusting like the primer...
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:54 PM   #10
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why are you so set on blasting? trying to spend alot of money? why not just use a aircraft paint remover and do it yourself? itll take time yes, but you seem to have alot of that and it will get done to your quality. you can still take care of all rust issues and you can do a section at a time and have the individual sections painted seperatly assumming your painter is capable of matching the colors. if you paint each piece with a color coat after priming you wont have to worry about it rusting like the primer...
I appreciate your ideas. I really do. However, I have respiratory issues that just won't allow me to handle that kind of chemicals. I wear a respiratory mask when I RB, specifically designed for that purpose and I'm still affected a little bit. Rustoleum gives me fits as do household cleaners, etc.

Right now the sand blasting is only $125.00. The jury is out on what the soda blasting will cost. I'm going to find out what type of median the blaster uses. There is a Dupont that is supposed to be excellent. Starcrest or something like that...

I'm not trying to make things difficult for myself. I just want the job done right. I'm going to still do some research on this. I don't want to make a mistake. However, if my cab was that bad that swiss cheese affect would come into play, I have deeper problems then what I could ever imagine. I don't think that is the case...
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Old 03-27-2010, 10:02 PM   #11
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iv seen shows on tv were they use walnut shells and stuff. and media blasting.
That striper stuff is not any stronger then the rust bullet. I have used it with my buddy eddie on his camero, worked fast and easy. But it is messy and fun to clean up after done.
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:35 AM   #12
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So who told you you had to sand the crap out of metal to get paint to stick to it?
If you strip a car with paint stripper what kind of finish do you see? Smooooth right?
Thats why they named it self etching primer it sticks because of a chemical reaction not a mechanical one. You WILL be sorry if you choose to SAND BLAST the truck! If you have rust issues you can sandblast them but with a spot blaster and at a much less air pressure. You asked the question so take the advice of experience DO NOT SANDBLAST THE TRUCK! If you still think you want to sand blast it save your $125.00 and just haul it to the junk yard.
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:53 AM   #13
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So who told you you had to sand the crap out of metal to get paint to stick to it?
If you strip a car with paint stripper what kind of finish do you see? Smooooth right?
Thats why they named it self etching primer it sticks because of a chemical reaction not a mechanical one. You WILL be sorry if you choose to SAND BLAST the truck! If you have rust issues you can sandblast them but with a spot blaster and at a much less air pressure. You asked the question so take the advice of experience DO NOT SANDBLAST THE TRUCK! If you still think you want to sand blast it save your $125.00 and just haul it to the junk yard.
Why the attitude? I certainly don't have one. You made a statement that I might as well take it to the junk yard, but you didn't explain why. I just asked for your reasoning so I could understand where your thought pattern was coming from. I'm trying to gain as much knowledge to make the right decision.

I'm waiting on a quote from a soda blaster. The jury is still out.
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:10 AM   #14
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You should call Pablo JR. and hear from a professional.
IMHO
I feel your pain. I replaced a whole side rear quarter panel on my 1970...from the door jam back. In the end I was happy because I did it myself with help from my brothers.
Much love and dedication has gone into your truck. I still dont get the cost of it to drive it in the mud. But, it's your ride.
Not a body man myself but then again. I make due with what I have. Why not a DA sander with 120 grit pads and have at it? 80 grit might be to much but you can try it on a none visible spot and make your own decision. It would remove it faster.
Beats the cost of towing, back breaking work moving it and so on.
Just a thought.
Mike
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Old 03-28-2010, 03:16 PM   #15
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You should call Pablo JR. and hear from a professional.
IMHO
I feel your pain. I replaced a whole side rear quarter panel on my 1970...from the door jam back. In the end I was happy because I did it myself with help from my brothers.
Much love and dedication has gone into your truck. I still dont get the cost of it to drive it in the mud. But, it's your ride.
Not a body man myself but then again. I make due with what I have. Why not a DA sander with 120 grit pads and have at it? 80 grit might be to much but you can try it on a none visible spot and make your own decision. It would remove it faster.
Beats the cost of towing, back breaking work moving it and so on.
Just a thought.
Mike
Hey Mike,

I'm going to see him this week. I need to hear from someone who does this day in and out.

I'm still confused as to why Elcaminoman thinks that if I sand blast I should just take it to the junk yard. I don't agree. I want the bad spots blown out. I don't want to go hide from them. I'm sure I can have the blasters adjust their air pressure to just enough to remove the paint, but then again, I may not be able to. I don't know. I'm still waiting on the soda blasting quote.

As for:

"I still dont get the cost of it to drive it in the mud."

Not only is this truck going to be a mudder, it's going to be a driver too. I would be remiss if I didn't say I wasn't going to take it to car shows and try to win a trophy or two. I would like to try. Everything I am doing is to preserve the integrity of the truck and to protect it from the mud. I'm not foolish enough to think that I can get everywhere covered, but I'm gonna do my best to try. If I can make my truck as rust proof as possible, then I'm going to have it around for a long time. Since I don't plan on going into rocks at all, I won't see the kind of damages y'all see.

Besides, someone has to tow the chuck wagon and feed y'all at the events anyhow! Wouldn't it be nice to have a purdy MUD truck and trailer to do that with???
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Old 03-28-2010, 03:36 PM   #16
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Why the attitude? I certainly don't have one. You made a statement that I might as well take it to the junk yard, but you didn't explain why. I just asked for your reasoning so I could understand where your thought pattern was coming from. I'm trying to gain as much knowledge to make the right decision.

I'm waiting on a quote from a soda blaster. The jury is still out.
Sorry if it sounded like an Attitude. The sandblasting produces too much heat and warps the sheet metal. Just trying to save you some grief.
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:12 PM   #17
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Sorry if it sounded like an Attitude. The sandblasting produces too much heat and warps the sheet metal. Just trying to save you some grief.
It's alright man. The light bulb didn't click right away. I think soda blasting is the only way I can go. I can't seem to find any other type of media other than that or sand in SA. I don't want to cause sheet metal issues. I only want to strip paint. My area of concern is really in one area only. I guess I will go to pnp and cut that area out and then put it back in on my truck.

Thank you for being patient with me. Body work is very confusing to me. It seems like in this facet of automotive restoration, there are too many chiefs and not enough Indians. It's all good.
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Old 03-28-2010, 05:18 PM   #18
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ask your sand blaster what media he's using and what types of other media he has available. most blasters have an assortment of media on hand and some are work very good for sheet metal and still pretty cheap. personally i'd go with soda because it will take off some rust and show exactly where the bad spots are and not hurt the metal at all where as most other forms of media will damage the metal to some extent. i've seen show cars come out after being blasted by different types of media and after paint they all came out beautiful just some took more work to get ready for paint then others
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Old 03-28-2010, 05:59 PM   #19
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It's alright man. The light bulb didn't click right away. I think soda blasting is the only way I can go. I can't seem to find any other type of media other than that or sand in SA. I don't want to cause sheet metal issues. I only want to strip paint. My area of concern is really in one area only. I guess I will go to pnp and cut that area out and then put it back in on my truck.

Thank you for being patient with me. Body work is very confusing to me. It seems like in this facet of automotive restoration, there are too many chiefs and not enough Indians. It's all good.
Cutting out the rust and welding in patch panels is an option check with LMC for repair panels.
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:11 PM   #20
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Cutting out the rust and welding in patch panels is an option check with LMC for repair panels.
Unfortunately, the only rust area is on the firewall next to the fuse box opening. No one seems to have that panel.
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:37 PM   #21
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Unfortunately, the only rust area is on the firewall next to the fuse box opening. No one seems to have that panel.
Junk yard or fab it up yourself.
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:10 PM   #22
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Junk yard or fab it up yourself.
Yeah, I think I'm going to do just that. I'll check the junk yards first. If I can't get a good section, then I'll fab it up. I'll just have to clean up all that JB Weld I made a mess with.
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:37 AM   #23
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Just got off the phone with Alamo City Soda Blasting. They can soda blast the cab for under $300.00 and aluminum oxide the firewall. This is the way I have decided to go. I'm shooting for mid-April.

Thanks for all your help! Still need a good etching primer...
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:37 PM   #24
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S.A.K-5 has a brilliant futureS.A.K-5 has a brilliant futureS.A.K-5 has a brilliant futureS.A.K-5 has a brilliant futureS.A.K-5 has a brilliant futureS.A.K-5 has a brilliant futureS.A.K-5 has a brilliant futureS.A.K-5 has a brilliant futureS.A.K-5 has a brilliant futureS.A.K-5 has a brilliant futureS.A.K-5 has a brilliant future
just get Vari Prime or Euro prime manny , both work great
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Old 03-30-2010, 07:57 PM   #25
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Just my .02, I sand blasted my hood (just the underside) a few years ago and didn't notice till early the next morning in the street lights that it was warped. I could see everywhere i hit it with the sand; I bought a new hood! Your paint looks in good shape I would think you could get a nice finish color sanding the good areas and replacing only the rusted ones and then paint it. On the firewall no one will really see how perfect that area is anyway. By the way nice work so far!!!!
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