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Narrowing a K5



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Old 11-10-2006, 07:36 PM   #1
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Narrowing a K5

I am about to start narrowing me K5 front and rear. I have done alot of searching and looking all over. Any tips that anyone could give to make the job go more smoothly and turn out better would be appreciated. Also, any pics and specs about how much you narrowed your Blazers would be great. thanks in advance.
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Old 11-10-2006, 08:57 PM   #2
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Measure twice and cut once.
Safety first...googles, face shield, leather gloves. I didn't do that part and ended up spending a extra 59.50 for doctors visit. Yes, I am the [email protected] So, saying that....just that alone will save you some money and time.
On to narrow...meaning Dovetail. Al thought, I have never done a Chevy and just a Toyota(front and rear). The concept is the same.
I would think Chevy would be more easy in some parts. Inner fender well can be removed...un-like Toyota they are welded inn.
some side notes to think about is how much to cut front and rear. In the rear I kind of ran into narrowing it to much. My side marker lights had to be relocated (Chassis got in the way.)
In the rear depending what way you want to go. I cut the whole rear quarters panels" QP" off. I left about 2 inch lip on the inside where the "QP" meets the flat bed part...so that I can re weld it back. Measure from the outer most corner of cab of the bed and draw a straight(as you can) line towards in the inside ...I beleave I removed about 9 inches at the tailights per side. Yours may be different measurement. Some things to think about is fuel/gas door relocation. Keep in mind before you cut that their isn't anything in the way. wires and such. I removed the bed to cut mine but that is up to you. I would say the rear was alot easier to do. Not much to relocate. I did bob the bed or shorten it before I narrowed it.
As you narrow or move the fenders/QP's inward you will notice that they seem to get short the more you move them inn. To better understand this stand next to a wall(facing it). put the tip of your right finger up against it just barley touching it. Now imagen that your whole arm is the front fender or QP. as you move to the right you will notice that your finger no longer can reach the wall...make it seem shorter. I hope you understand.
Back to the rear....once I cut the rears off, cut the bed of the truck and re welded the QP's on...I notice the the bed(Floor) was now about a inch longer then the QP...I had to cut the floor at the end to match the QPs
The gap from the cab and begining of bed will look bigger. You may address that area by playing around with the idea of moving the QP towards the cab.(of course this idea is done before you weld the QP's on.
The front is another story. things to think about is battery location or anything under the hood that will have to be relocated after narrowing the front. I sectioned my Radiator support to keep the headlight bucket mounts and opening for cooling. This is my DD for now and I had to keep with it being legal for long as I can.
I did the rad support first. Narrowing it that is. I beleave it was 8 1/4 in per side. I had to stretch my inner fender as well as the outer one to make up for the lenght lost by moving them inwards. The hood was the last thing I cut up front.
Here is a link to my front part.
http://www.texas4x4.org/gallery/Front-Dovetail
and this link of mostly the rear.
http://www.texas4x4.org/gallery/MikesToyota?page=3

IT may seem kind of long...as I feel it will take some time doing this yourself as I did. If your in to hacking...the go for it. I try my best to make it look better then just a hack job.
Although, not a chevy...concept is the same.
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Old 11-10-2006, 09:35 PM   #3
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Leave enough room in the back for the baby seat...









(and call me when you start cuttin... I'll bring the lasers to mark it out a little better)
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Old 11-10-2006, 09:49 PM   #4
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No baby seat in my near future if I have any say about it. Thanks mnmstoy for the great info. I got the front fenders pulled off already now I just need to figure how much will be cut out per side. I agree with making it not look like a hack job.

dubbyx give me a call tomorrow. Patrick and I may do some more.
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Old 11-11-2006, 12:50 PM   #5
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No baby seat in my near future if I have any say about it. Thanks mnmstoy for the great info. I got the front fenders pulled off already now I just need to figure how much will be cut out per side. I agree with making it not look like a hack job.

dubbyx give me a call tomorrow. Patrick and I may do some more.
heheh... working on building a ring roller today and then heading out to the hockey game tonight.
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Old 11-11-2006, 03:02 PM   #6
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Ended up not working today. Am going to try to tomorrow.
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Old 11-12-2006, 08:11 PM   #7
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Anybody have any insight to give out?
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Old 11-13-2006, 03:46 PM   #8
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when I did mine, I narrowed almost to the frame rails front and back. If you don't want that much clearance it would make it alot easier to only go to the hood lines. you will never be able to make the fenders match up with the hood if you cut across the ridge.
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Old 11-14-2006, 10:44 AM   #9
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i used rock to narrow my jimmy. its 2.5" to 3" more narrow than when i first got it !!!! those jeep trails can be pritty narrow every inch helps.
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Old 11-14-2006, 11:02 AM   #10
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i used rock to narrow my jimmy. its 2.5" to 3" more narrow than when i first got it !!!! those jeep trails can be pritty narrow every inch helps.

Self clearencing!!
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Old 11-14-2006, 12:51 PM   #11
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I thought about that method but decided to keep the sheetmetal somewhat straight.
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Old 11-14-2006, 02:15 PM   #12
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You ready to hack on it? My sawzalls are tingling with excitement.
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Old 11-14-2006, 03:04 PM   #13
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I narrowed my 84 stepside by taking the body off and putting a 99 sonoma on top! "clearing my throat and in a straight voice" sorry couldn't resist......lol!
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Old 11-14-2006, 06:34 PM   #14
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I narrowed my 84 stepside by taking the body off and putting a 99 sonoma on top! "clearing my throat and in a straight voice" sorry couldn't resist......lol!
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Old 11-28-2006, 04:38 PM   #15
 
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So how did it turn out? Iv just been using the rock method as well.
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Old 11-28-2006, 06:03 PM   #16
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I believe he's working on it again tonight. I was over a couple weeks ago and it was going well. His garage is warmer than my driveway, so I'm going to try and head over tomorrow again and see how it's coming.

When I last saw it, both fenders were off as well as all the substructure. They'd trimmed the front even with the grill and we were working on clearing a straight path back to the original mounting holes. The fenders don't have any bend in them, which was a goal accomplished, and only a slight gap between the door and fender edge. We mocked the tire in place and it was looking awesome.

hey mudman, send those pics over to me and I'll post them up if you want. newtonsprojects at hotmail dot com.
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:21 PM   #17
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So far it is going very well. We have gotten the fenders mounted to where they are flush with the front grill. The hood is the next piece to be cut. I can put up some pics later.
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:22 PM   #18
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:26 PM   #19
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Well here you go.







And so it begins





tire mocked up to see what it is looking like







modified fender bracket and skinned fender





sectioned front







modified fender mount



as it sits. Going to work on the hood tomorrow.

Enjoy.
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:53 PM   #20
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great job!!! it's coming out very nice.
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:54 PM   #21
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lookin good, the grill looks sweeeet....



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Old 11-28-2006, 11:11 PM   #22
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Yup. Looks good. D'Ana was impressed with our little tape job .
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Old 11-29-2006, 04:48 AM   #23
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Very nice!
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:40 AM   #24
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Looking good!
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Old 11-29-2006, 08:01 AM   #25
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Thanks for the compliments. The whole idea was to keep the grill for the look as well as the simplicity.
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