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Rust removal and prevention!!!



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Old 11-28-2009, 02:16 PM   #1
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Rust removal and prevention!!!

I have a pretty big problem with rust on my burb. When I bought this truck it was rusted pretty well and now its time to get to work on fixing this before it becomes an even bigger issue. Also the paint is beginning to flake off. You can rub certain spots gently and the paint will come right off.
Pic 1

This shows where I leaned against the truck talking to a friend and when I moved my hand I had a hand full of white paint.
Pic 2

The roof. My major trouble spot. I am gonna have to remove the luggage rack to get all of this prolly.
Pic 3
This is another example of paint flaking off. I had a magnetic sign on this spot to identify myself as a courier, and this is the result. I am no longer using this truck as a courier vehicle, now I drive the bosses boxvan.

Pic 4

This pic was supposed to show the white paint being rinsed off the top every time it rains. Also another example of the paint just flaking off.


Long story short, I want to start working on this since its cooler now. I dont need this truck to be beautiful since I plan on beating it up pretty good. I just want to stop all this rust. I like the paint scheme too but if it all has to go then so be it. The hood was rusted up really bad too so I took a wire brush to it and used some rust preventing spray paint, but I can tell it is rusting under the new paint, so that will have to be redone.

Also the black under the paint. Is that the factory primer? None of that is flaking off at all but does it need to be removed also. I know nothing about paint or rust removal so all input is appreciated. I will prolly have to use spray paint to re-primer and repaint so please recommend products as well.

Thanks everyone!!

Last edited by Gearysa; 11-28-2009 at 02:39 PM..
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Old 11-28-2009, 08:03 PM   #2
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Im familiarizing myself with the POR-15 products, seems they now have colors other than black and it can be rolled/brushed or sprayed on. Id take a sanding disc to it, do the POR metal wash and por prime, them POR it a color. To save the color scheme tape it off when you sand it, paint it, then do the reverse.
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Old 11-28-2009, 09:23 PM   #3
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When a friend of mine used to do paint and body he used a product called "1 step". It is super easy to use and works like a champ. I think that your truck isn't too far gone to benefit from this product.

http://www.interstateproducts.com/rustkiller.htm
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Old 11-28-2009, 09:42 PM   #4
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You can do it pretty cheap and it will last for along time. One thing I fight all the time on the gulf coast is rust. Get as much of the rust you can off. Sand it down, wire it, get all the flake and scale off. Go to and Ace or Tractor Supply and get a product called OSPHO. It is basically phosphoric acid. The same thing POR uses. This will turn Iron Oxide into Iron Phosphate, a paintable and non rust compound. Follow the direction on the Ospho. For primers in a rattle can I like the Oil Based tractor implement primers and paints that Tractor supply carries. It take a little longer to dry but this allows it to settle and smooth out. The black under the white looks like the original color of the vehicle. It looks like Plainsmen conversions painted the vehicle and did not prep like they should have or someone along the way painted it. You can strip it off if you want. A good way to do this is to get an aluminum safe paint remover and roll of celophane wrap. spray an area and cover with the celophane. This will allo w the chemical to work without drying or evaporating. If I were you I would tackle the rust and not worry about the paint flake.
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Old 12-01-2009, 09:53 PM   #5
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Thanks for the input yall!!! I will be looking at doing some of this work this weekend and post some pics.
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:28 PM   #6
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Im familiarizing myself with the POR-15 products, seems they now have colors other than black and it can be rolled/brushed or sprayed on. Id take a sanding disc to it, do the POR metal wash and por prime, them POR it a color. To save the color scheme tape it off when you sand it, paint it, then do the reverse.
You had good luck with POR-15..I didn't, I painted my cj frame and did all the steps it told me to do with the wash and prime and that stuff about 2 years later just pulls off in big flakes. I must have done something wrong.
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Old 12-03-2009, 03:51 PM   #7
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You had good luck with POR-15..I didn't, I painted my cj frame and did all the steps it told me to do with the wash and prime and that stuff about 2 years later just pulls off in big flakes. I must have done something wrong.
I havent used it, but reasearching it still. Possibly you didnt degrease it or kill the rust with the wash which is the same as the OSPHO mentioned.
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:00 PM   #8
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main problem on the burb is the elpo primer gm used, to slick for paint to stick to. go to paint shop, get some rust remover and zinc corrosion protection , sand veh , spray with a self etching primer , sand , clean and put on color .
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:45 AM   #9
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Just raddle can that *****! If is comes off the add some more! Just kidding.
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Old 12-10-2009, 05:26 PM   #10
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Por15 works good on bare or rusted metal. It isn't uv stable though so it has to be top coated. I use it on frames, axles, trannys, tcases, all after I've hit them up with a wire cup brush on the grinder. Then wash/ degrease and brush it on.

For the body I would use a wire cup brush in a grinder to take it down to bare metal and then buy some primer and paint from tsc or napa and just do a backyard paint job. It has worked for me in the past, looks pretty decent and is fairly cheap if you have the time to do it.
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:26 PM   #11
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For the body I would use a wire cup brush in a grinder to take it down to bare metal and then buy some primer and paint from tsc or napa and just do a backyard paint job. It has worked for me in the past, looks pretty decent and is fairly cheap if you have the time to do it.
I'm pretty sure thats what I will end up doing. Christmas has eaten up that budget for right now tho. This is something I am ready to get done, for sure!
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:43 PM   #12
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Por15 works good on bare or rusted metal. It isn't uv stable though so it has to be top coated. I use it on frames, axles, trannys, tcases, all after I've hit them up with a wire cup brush on the grinder. Then wash/ degrease and brush it on.
I did that too, did all the steps and it stuck to everything but the frame. I didn't know it wasn't UV resistant though. That might have been my problem.
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:11 AM   #13
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ive done some checking around, and i think im sold on the rustbullet instead. it is silver and doesnt need a topcoat, can be brushed on and is avaiable in many colors. i may just paint the whole rig black, and use that drying accelerant to get it done all in one day.
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:29 PM   #14
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I was interested in that rustbullet but never went for it. I'm building my new rig right now and used stuff called CHEMPRIME (same as OSPHO I'm told) to clean the rust off the frame, then wire brushed and shot with paint. We'll see how long it lasts!
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:06 PM   #15
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I was interested in that rustbullet but never went for it. I'm building my new rig right now and used stuff called CHEMPRIME (same as OSPHO I'm told) to clean the rust off the frame, then wire brushed and shot with paint. We'll see how long it lasts!
Yeah let me know how that turns out. Do you have any pics? Like before it was painted and now after. Where do you get chemprime or rustbullet? I would like to try 1 if not both.

I got some cordless tools for christmas so I have worked on just getting off the rust a little bit and its not going too well. I about 5 hours of work I have only gotten a 2' square area done. Its a combination of the rust being really deep and the tools only staying charged for about an hours worth of use. Will be getting a corded grinder and drill with my taxes, if I get enough, so that will prolly speed things up a bit.
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Old 01-01-2010, 08:26 PM   #16
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so far, best place for rustbullet is summit racing, like $10 savings over rustbullet directly. i just got my compressor and hvlp guns, still need a dual action sander and the rustbullet stuff, should be done soon.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:50 PM   #17
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I picked up the chem prime from a local industrial paint store (TCI) here in Austin. not sure if they've got any branches down there but you just spray it on and let it do its thing then wire brush the residue off, and prime/paint. The only problem I had was with grease and dirt. Yeah corded is def the way to go for this project, I used those cheap blue grinders from harbor freight and burned both up before I was done! I still need to figure out how to post pics but I will when I do.
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:47 PM   #18
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I picked up the chem prime from a local industrial paint store (TCI) here in Austin. not sure if they've got any branches down there but you just spray it on and let it do its thing then wire brush the residue off, and prime/paint. The only problem I had was with grease and dirt. Yeah corded is def the way to go for this project, I used those cheap blue grinders from harbor freight and burned both up before I was done! I still need to figure out how to post pics but I will when I do.
Were in Austin? I make a trip up there Monday thru Friday. I only go as far as 35 and Ben White but if it works then I could talk to my boss.

Yeah corded drill is gonna be 1 of my next purchases. Maybe a grinder too. Im sure I could find plenty to use both on.
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:56 PM   #19
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Well your in luck it's right at 35 and Ben white! It's off of industrial blvd. Runs between congress and 35 just south of Ben white. TCI is on the northern side of the road. Again it's called chem prime and I think it's like 10 bucks for a gallon. I just picked up the spray bottle, cleaned up the frame a little, sprayed it then let it sit. Hit it with a wire brush a while after then ready to prime/paint.

The whole frame took forever but hopefully it won't see rust for a long time! The whole reason I am doing this yota body on chevy frame drivetrain swap is because I was losing the fight against rust on my yota frame!

Oh yeah definitely those corded tools. Drill would be nice for those tight corners as well! Good luck man let me know how it goes.
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Old 01-10-2010, 10:46 PM   #20
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Awesome, gonna have to stop by there friday. I will be posting up pics before long. Been lazy with it actually being cold here.
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:36 AM   #21
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just got my rustbullet and the rustblaster. because i dont have a problem with the paint itself, just the problem areas of rust thats to be expected for a scoutii, im just gonna give it a good once over with that paint remover/scuffer dish scrubby 4m attachment for my pnuematic drill to get off some sticky stuff left when i removed some decals. then wipe down with the rustblaster and shoot the rustbullet. i thought rustbullet came in colors, but it doesnt. im on the fence on the black or white, or other.

gearysa, are you gonna try to keep stock color scheme. your welcome to come over when i do it. the adress is off prue and kyle seale pkwy.
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:37 PM   #22
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gearysa, are you gonna try to keep stock color scheme. your welcome to come over when i do it. the adress is off prue and kyle seale pkwy.
No, I am thinking about white, with some kind of bed liner from the bottom 2' up the side. Its just gonna get beat up so Im gonna stay cheap.

I might try to do that. Depends on the ole lady on the weekends so let me know, and I will see what she has planned. Thank you!
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:43 PM   #23
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I have been doing a little work on this so I figured I would share some pics.

As far as I got before the battery died.

sanded then primed it. This is beginning to get frustrating not being able to do more at one time but at least its something. Gonna buy myself a grinder soon and get this thing done quick.
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Old 01-24-2010, 11:01 PM   #24
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Looks good. If you can find an electric dual action sander or if you have access to a large compressor get an pnuematic one. They make short work of it.
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