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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am 16 and this is a log / list of evrything ive done so far to my K5 please post back any comments or suggestions or questions you might have. Keep in mind that evrything upgraded was paid for by me from my own pocket.jamminzz ( I think i have bought enough stuff from oriely to own stock1funny1 )
76/79 K5 -
44/350/465/203/12 bolt I was told there were 3.73's(nope bsflg 2.78 & 3.08 )
36 tsl's front (bald ) 37 boggers rear ( brand new )
4inch suspension & 4inch body (THE IDIOTS STACKED TWO TOGETHER!!fightte )
T case has a part time kit & has new warn locking hubs
Motor was rebuilt with a new carb
Shaved door handles and pop locks ( those are now broke)
A 8274 winch (needs rebuilt ) light bar and 4 kc high lites
Pionner cd player but radio didn't work
The truck started out as a 76auto but was converted to a 79 with a standard ( 76 frame /79 body auto ). The truck was a living showcase to ******* ingenuity. the battery was tied in with trailer wire , The t case was drop down with 2x4's :evilbat: , rear bumper was fabricated mounting to a old frame mounted hitch. Radiator hose has held away from the fan with nylon rope, fan shroud was chopped, + battery lead was 3 pieces of 4 ga. wires taped together... The list goes on ... o ya the front drive shaft was removed because of tire differences.

My build up started after my first trip out Keep in mind I didn't really know that much about the technical aspect of this sport. I blew my rear yoke on the t case 15 after i arrived on an incline, replaced it ( a week after i bought it was learning how top drive a standard and dumped the clutch and broke the first yoke ( the one on the 12 bolt)) and 2 weeks later IT began to eat u joints every 100 miles or so on the rear drive shaft. Decided to take the t case drop (2x4's) off after I did some research and ate threw 4 u joints. This helped to correct the pinion angle and slowed the destruction to 2 every 3 weeks. Then the spines on my rear shat were tore up when my father was backing it out of the garage and the slip yoke literally slipped out. This is when I decided to get a longer, stronger shaft built, and also purchased two new boggers for the front . Two weeks later I have everything back together and had fixed the 4-wheel drive problem due to the tires. I replaced the slip yoke on the front and went to go play. I hadn't driven it in a little over a month and drove 20 miles to a favorite spot and played all day long. Didn't have a problem and had a blast even went through the pit that no one else could make it through. On our way out I saw a patch of muddy sand silt stuff and decided to go play and had a blast. As we were leavein i shifted into granny (1st at the time) and herad a horrible pop from the rear end. I tried to move but that didn't work and I could go in reverse either. We drug the truck back to the main road and loaded it on trail by dragging the rear and using 4-wheel drive.
By now I had owned the truck a total of 10 weeks and had been reading a lot more forums and was begging to understand the technical side of everything. I pulled the rear axel apart. (I didn't have a clue what I was doing) and found what I learn was pinion gear was missing teeth in the rear axel and even worse the pinion head was completely sheared off the shaft. In the process it ruined the carrier. Once I had it inside I began to research a little e more. Since this was my DD I was going to just put 3.73s in it and put it back on the street but the price to rebuild the axel was more than the actual cost of the gears themselves. So I did the next logical thing and began to look for an axel with gear already installed this didn't work too well either and found nothing with what I needed.
I finally found 2 12 bolts and a bunch of parts for a great price and jumped on it. This turned out be useless to me except the lock rite and all the spare parts. I was once again back where I started. The more I researched the more I learned and decided to completely regear the truck with 4.56's. I didn't have a clue on have to do this but found several very good articles online and began to acquire the knowledge I needed. I ended up with a new carrier in the front and new gears.
The first set we did came up with a great pattern but we had to disassemble the pinion to install the crush sleeve. While we were removing it the nut jammed and ended up destroying the treads. The gears were sent back to the manu. but a new set wasn't sent until after x mas. T first the plan was to build the rear only and put it back on the road but after the threads messed up we decided to do the front as well since we had the down time in-between shipments. We also ordered a pinion depth tool and a bearing puller.
When everything arrived we finished up the front end and began to build the rear end. Since I had all the extra time I decided to paint the axels while they were out from underneath the truck. I went with signal green which after I finished made the truck look like gravedigger.
I replace every seal bearing and u joint that was possible in the complete drive terrain. I also replaced the worn-out ranchos with some new heckeltorn hydro 9000's as well as the steering stabilizer. The brake lines were replaced with new super lift extended lines as well as the two from hard lines and the master cylinder. The brake rotors were turned and the bleed valves and bolt spacers and bushings were replaced as well. The rear drums were turned and the pads and brake cylinders were replaced. All of the ball joints were replaced on the d44 as well as all of the steering linkage.
While the truck was apart I added an 80 watt 2 channel amp and 2 Sony 6x9's so I can hear the radio over the truck. As well and a set of pro comp driving lights and a relay system. The battery cables were replaced after the alternator ate threw the + cable. Both fan belts were replaced as well as switching to a closed box stock style air filter vs. the open hot rod version I had before. I changed to waterproof header gaskets and new bolts as well as aluminum collector gaskets after blowing both in a water filled ditch. I cut part of the rear bumper off after it got me stuck in that ditch.hacck
I blew the lock rite three days later i guess 37'stssl were a bit too much.spankn
Parts break down

10 bolt (needed a new front hub mine was bent on the d44) - freejamminzz
2 - 12 bolt housing set of 3.08's, 3.42's and 3.73's and a lock rite as well as drums, axels, yokes and a rebuild kit. $300
4.56's front and rear, d44 carrier, 2 master install kits $450
New super lift brake lines and 4-heckletorn hydro 9000's w/
Steering stabilizer and hard ware $170
Brake pads, master cylinder, 3 hard lines, 1 ½ gallons of brake
Fluid, caliper spacer kit, bleeds valves, hydro assist booster $200
Fan belts, collector gaskets, header gaskets, header bolts,
Battery cables $70
4-Moog ball joints, axels seals, axel u-joints $180
2- 37x13.50x15 TsL boggers $ 500
Yokes and u-joints used before I changed gears $200
Front tierod ends, tierods to sterring arm (4) $250
Rear drive shaft with slip yoke $350
Front slip yoke for drive shaft and new u joints $100
Tools bought to be able to make all this happen
My father and I split most of the cost on these $400
All the misc. little pieces and parts that are a must have $150
5 gallons of diff fluid and pump $40


Now that I look back on this it kind of makes me wish I had known what I do now and waited a while and went 1 tons when I had the chancebanghead . O well got learn some how right?
This is my first truck build up but will certainly not be the last. My next major project is fixing the ******* jerry rigger lift that is currently on it. And yet my friends cant understand why I don't have a problem making it through the hard stuff... lol This build up took me approximately 6 months to reach the point at which Im at now with me paying for every mod out of my pocket except for the truck which I'm still currently paying on.

Link to build up pictures as well as a few trail http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerkid4x4
If any wants to tell me how to post pics on the fourm it would be greatly appciatedbigok
My next upgrade will be dual batterys and the warn 12000 lb winch off my dads truck ( his trany took a dump on him so i get to steal his goodiesbigok jamminzz ) The dual battery set up will be done as described in the tech files wirtten by "old goat"
The light bar I recently rewired and enter in a Vica contest and took second place out of 200 or so students in my division. My rearend project I was planning on doing took a dump on me after parts were found to damged from the first failure.

· Mas Tequila
14,889 Posts
Welcome to the site. toast

that's a good writeup and it's cool how you have down all the work yourself and footed the bill. thumbup I admire that you have gotten off to a good start.

one Mod I can think of you might consider is the rear bumper, It's huge.. check out some of the pictures Bowtie has of his old rear bumper... Or ask him about it Worked great and was tucked up nicely

· Registered
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ya I got stuck a few too many times and brought out the cutting torch and took off that large bottom bar on the rear bumper.Now the bumper is even with the frame and has given me much more approach angle but i still seem to drag it every once in a while.
The only complaint i have is that most of my friends dont want to go wheelin with me. Most cant go half the places i can i guess plus the boger 's dont help. Its kinda fun to make ur own trails tho jamminzz . The only thing is that most of the trails around here are startin to become to easy and im wanting a new chanlenge. Also the most changlenin spot we had to go was bout by the chemical plants and is now off lmits ( pelican Island ). Hopefully this summer ill make it to shilo or another park. rockonn

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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well i guess its time for an update on my rigs current status.

The damage form Shilo.

busted the battery mounts for the battery box
Locked up a hood spring
Fried a starter
Cracked the leads on the battery
Messed up the ignition switch and tilt colum

Well as it sits you can start it up with a flip of a switch had to bypass the ingntion switch because of a problem with my colum. I have a lead for the starter on a momemntary and a kill switch under the dash hooked to the kill switch. I guess thats what I get for beating it up @ shilo this summer.
I had hacked the wiring together and then i shot the battery into the hood and busted out the headlight riding cystal beach in bolivair a week after i fixed some of the problems. Then goin to to eat the tranny made a funny noise and then leaving It locked up in 1st and it wont come out, yet the cluth works fine. Ran the motor low on oil for two days now its smoking, stupid guages.

Well Schools coming up and I want my truck back together but o well. Figure might as well do it right the first time. Im sick or temp fixes....

Motor - rebuild $650 Or if the heads just need gaskets teh a gaske intake and a cam $250
Wiring harness $180
Guages $350
Seats $300
HArnesses $150
Head lights $50
Switches/leds $75
Rock lights $75
Trannsimission $150
dash $150
stering $200


I want to pull both the motor and tranny. Find a new sm465 posiblyy a hydro assembly. Depending on the motors compression test ill either be rebuilding it flat top pistons mild rv cam head work roller rockers if buget allows or just sum new head gauskets a 3 angle vala job and a cam and lifters. Also a new edlebrock preformer intake and a offroad float and vale kit unles I come across a tbi setup.
Then I plan on Rip every bit of the ******* hackjob wiring out and putting in a new harness for ite either its a snap or EZ wiring ( half the cost a of painless). Ive never been quite found of the blazer dash so Im thinking im going to chop it out and build my own. Any ideas or tips are welcome. Fill the dash with new autometer guages and put all the acessories as whell as the winch on a switch panel with the radio above in the center. Cb mounted to the roof of the cab. Since im sick of getting thrown around in the truck on trails im thinking some kind of racestyle seats that accept 4 or 5 point harnesses but dont break the bank. As well as stripping the inside of the tub and redoing the bedliner probally a hericul liner kit insead of the knock off walmart spary can job.
Since im getting sine of the gehtto fab 4" body lift and putting a 3" in ill be pulling the tub and cleaning up the frame to get it prep for a coat of bedliner. While the tub's off the Hydro assist will be fab up for install since 37's and rocks dont mix to well with stock steering. Ive always liked rock lights and will adding some to the blazer since most of the whellin I do in the fall do is at nite, as well as the kc light bar I built for a school project( I won state with it for doing a relay setup to alow all the truck lights be turn on at once or selct which sets u wanted with out overloading anything!)
Im sure ill come up with a 100 other ideas before i finsh it. Plans are the works for fabing up bumpers, roll cage and rock sliders jamminzz.

As for the q's asked earlier

The paint was Hous eof colors sginal green. Came out real sweet just took alot to prep. The only regret was I should of waited up till I shot some clear on em before I went and played. I ran out of cash . So now they look like crap. The whole thing cost me $60 bux. Sparyed two coats letting dry 6-8 between coats.

As for no goin to a 14 bolt, I didnt know any better. After I posted up my progressed sum1 asked me the same thing but it was too late. Luckily I havent had a problem with the 12 bolt. Im hoping I can talk my dad into makeing my grad present a 60 14 bolt combo with all the goodines. :rolleyes:.

I want to quit having to be towed home r do a trail fix with duct tape and bailing wire....

Let me know yall's opinion or comments This is fixin to start I pay off the truck tommrow..... Then ive got 250 bucks _ bills 50 so 200 bucks.... I want to have this doem in 2 months or less. Its supposed to be in teh homecoming parade im haulimg teh varstiy cheerleaders cuz teh dont want a float and trailer


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4,993 Posts
Good luck on your build. Get some "rock" lights from Wal-mart.
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