Question, if I have the dough for installing EZ Locker for only one axel, which should I choose. The front or the rear?
Fixing up a Devil's Den XJ to the point of getting up a little better than the bunny hills. Frt is equiped with Dana 30's and the rear has a Chrysler Corporate 8.25 w/o limited slip.
Well with 3 solid votes for the front and one on the fence but leaning to the frt, the front axel it is. Thanks for helping. The garage that will do the work suggested the front also. I'm really looking forward to having some traction on the hills!
rear, less breakage and easier to push over a hill than pull over a hill as wieght transfers to rear going up regardless of engine location. just my opinion, from doing frt first then rear then both.
less brakage I agree... but I think the whgt transfer goes the other way it will keep both rear pushing most of the time ... the front how ever needs all the help it can get ...my .02
also I used to wheel with a couple 4runner both 488 gears 1 front 1 rear both 32 in tires the one using the front locker could climb more stuff then the rear truck ... could of been driver ... but it sold me welder plus you could weld the rear for now welder :evilbat: beer jamminzz
rear, less breakage and easier to push over a hill than pull over a hill as wieght transfers to rear going up regardless of engine location. just my opinion, from doing frt first then rear then both.
OK, finally someone has stepped up to the plate with an opinion regarding the brand/make of locker! What are the pros and cons of the EZ Locker vs the Lock-Right? Costs difference?
Can someone explain the axel welding senario in 1000 words or less. Welding sounds permanent.
Aussie, well Mate, are you talkin bout ARB? What's the price installed for air lockers and pump? I'm sure mind boggeling! This is for a XJ with 31's and never gonna be climbin the Axel Breaker any way. What else you got?
aussie lockers (not to be confused with the ARB air locker) are a lunchbox locker like the lockrite and detroit ez locker. I've used the lockrite before with success and I curently have a ez locker in my TJ D30 and it works great, so far I have broken 1 frt axle in two places 1 axle @ the yoke, and 3 u-joints with no issues from the locker.
That thread crucified EZ locker like the stupid Pistons did last night to the Spurs fightte I'll look furhter into Aussie and Lock Right instead jamminzz
I recall both of them popping/banging. The lockright started doing it while driving straight (daily driver). I replaced the springs/pins and it was fine after that. A lot of things contribute to how the locker acts, driver style, tire air pressure (equal?) tire size being equal (even the same size tires from the same manufacturer can be off in sizes). The only true way to compare would be on the same axle with same tires and same driver.
Welding: same effect as a spool. If you make sure it is totally welded so that it cannot come UNwelded at the wrong moment, then your carrier has been turned into a spool permanently. Can it be undone? Yes, by installing a new carrier, same as if you changed your mind on running a spool.
Welding advantage over spooling: waaaaay cheaper if you do the welding yourself or have a buddy that does it for you for next to nothing and you don't have to remove the carrier to do it. If you know "eventually I want a full Detroit or an Ox or an ARB," then, since those drive locking systems all involve a completely new carrier, by all means, weld THE REAR for now. You will scrub/squeal the tires on the street which will lead to somewhat faster tire wear. You have to decide which is more important, street manners or trail-ability. I WOULD NOT weld/spool a daily driver.
I would NOT recommend WELDING THE FRONT under any circumstances, however, you can get by with it for a time while awaiting your ARB/Detroit/OX if:
1) Your front drive can be disconnected with lock/free hubs or a 2-pc axle (e.g. YJ, Ram truck) for the pavement
2) You have good power steering
3) You can live with a loss of turning radius on the trail (one or two more back-ups to make that tight turn)
4) You know you're a relatively short distance (money/time) away from getting one of the afore mentioned lockers.
Even a 100% trail rig can see just enough pavement or solid rock that, if you don't meet #1 (like with drive flanges on a full-time 4WD or factory D30 on a TJ) you will be breaking stuff way too often with a welded (spooled) front.
I agree with welding (did that too). It did suck for a DD, always squealing tires around turns and the increased tire wear. But, if it's trail only, it's the easiest/cheapest way to go.
OK the verdicts is finally in. Lock-Right for the front axel only for now. It should be here on Wed and will have the folks at Outback Offroad split open the pumpkin and stick it in. Thanks for saving me from a having a screwed up locker put in. jamminzz
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