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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a horrible problem due to terriffic flex. I bottom out my axle yoke on the driveshaft yoke.

Who has cut and rotated their knuckles or diff housing on a low pinion axle? How did you fix the mounting surface of the spring mount (GM D60's)? How hard was it to do yourself or how much did it cost if you had it done?

I have a K5 Blazer with an Atlas clocked flat and hooked up to a th400 in the shortest configuration possible. My front shaft is about 32" long and I have about 4-5" of lift. My front axle is moved forward about 3 1/2". I run a 42* cv off the t-case with a 1410 on the pinion. My driveshaft angle is 24* sitting on level ground. Clocking the tcase down is not an option. Due to the size of the 1410 cv, it will hit the transmission. I have condsidered high pinion centers but that would be way to expensive. I have also considered the TW super flex 1350 u-joint and I may go that way if turning the pinion costs too much. I have spent all of my money so I need a somewhat inexpensive solution.
 

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the only thing i can think of that would be cheap is to buy some shims to shim the pinion up, but i think that would mess up I think the camber or caster? some one should no what i am talking about
 

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shims and long travel driveshaft

I feel the shims will help, maybe 5 to 7 degrees given what you stated about the lift, driveline angle etc... Then maybe consider going with a long travel driveshaft which even if custom made for your rig may be around $300. Much less than the other options. Good luck with it, sounds like an awesome rig you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the compliments and ideas.

I have a long travel driveshaft and 6* shims. Another one of my problems is the cast in bolt holes on the housing when running a big shim. The bolts will bind up in the spring plate. The solution to that is to run another shim, reversed, under the spring plate. My pinion already points up 6* but that is not enough.

I guess (after some research) my solution will be to pull the axle out this weekend and take the grinder to the cast-in spring mount. I will have to grind about 12*-16* into the mount and run a reversed 12*-16* spring plate to keep the bolt holes lined up. I will then cut and re-weld the driver side spring perch to match. Then to get the castor back to acceptable, I will grind off the welds and rotate the knuckles. It is going to be a ton of work but I don't want to run a limiting strap and loose my droop. I also don't want to have a booty fabbed axle under my truck and risk breaking shims on the trail.
 

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I know you prolly dont want to hear this but if the shims dont work you could run a double CV with a CV at the T-case end and a CV at the D60 end. Seen it over on pirate.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
85mudblazin said:
I know you prolly dont want to hear this but if the shims dont work you could run a double CV with a CV at the T-case end and a CV at the D60 end. Seen it over on pirate.
1funny1
 
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