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I've met Johnny Cash
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For the detectives in the crew (Rastus), it's not news that I picked up a 1983 K5 from Bent & Twisted a few months ago. I grew up on Chevrolets as a kid and I've always had a fondness for the Big Iron rigs like FullTop's (before he butchered it) and Limey's. Even TX_Zuki will admit to owning a Bronco in a prior life!

"Dirty South" is how I think of the project as a concept - basic, nothing fancy, but done right and has it where you need it:



Let's start with the baseline specs of the rig:
1983 Chevrolet K5
350 V8, currently carbureted with an Edelbrock Model 1411 Performer 750
700R4 Transmission (apparently rebuilt in 2000)
NP208 slip-yoke :(
10-bolts, 4.56 and locked
Home-brew big iron bumpers
Dual-battery setup with 170-amp Powermaster alternator
Tuffy Security Console

By the by, anyone looking for a good part number list for these rigs can find one here:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53116

This how she looked when Bent-n-Twisted got her many moons ago -



And, how she looked when I got it after she had been sitting for quite a few months outdoors with no top -





You can see here the extremely sturdy rack B&T made for it back in the day. The rack had a transmission sitting on it right before I took this shot. This will be reworked and retained into a new bumper setup.



Among the many luxuries are a busted column due to no key and the always obligatory rat's nest of wiring under the dash. A bonus is no key for the Tuffy, either. However, if you call Tuffy Security Products and give them the lock number, they will send you a whole new lock and key assembly for about $11. Problem solved, once we man up and drill out the old one.



Truthfully, the floors are in much better shape than I expected but outdoor living kicks the wee out of the 80's Chevy sheetmetal.





Rockers are toast - no surprise. They're getting cut out for sliders anyway. There is also some rust penetration around the door drip rails. It's minor enough that a few mig tacks should take care of it. All of these interior pics are after the soggy interior and carpet was gutted, which was a fun job on its own, sort of like gutting a moldy pig.




Engine bay is in pretty good shape, considering how long it had been sitting. A large screwdriver, some brake cleaner and I had to join forces to convince several colonies of dirt daubers to move on, but otherwise we were open for business.
 

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Mas Tequila
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Sweet... looking forward to seeing you build this one..hope you get it all done before the grandkids are grown. :rofl:

smokin
 

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I've met Johnny Cash
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Moveable feast?

The first item of business was to get it moving under its own power sufficiently to get it on a trailer. Before I even bothered starting, I spent about four hours power washing it, as B&T had, shall we say, ridden her hard and put her up wet the last time out.

We had several "opportunities" facing us here. To summarize, we had a flat tire, some pesky fuel issue and various battery mis-adventures along the way to getting her to turn over.

I dropped the rusty factory tank (an adventure all its own, since you have to drop the rear bumper to get to the tank strap bolts) and swapped in a fuel cell that might look familiar. What's more fun that wrenching in a field?

We then had to deal with the Edelbrock -







A stuck float, clogged jets and loose linkages were fairly easily remedied.

Let me pause for a minute on the subject of the lowly Edelbrock. It won't be staying on this rig, but I would be remiss if I didn't provide some tech on improving their off-road capabilities. Rumor has it, with some float and off-road jet changes, they can be made to approximate a Holley Truck Avenger.

Edelbrock Off-Road Modification How-To:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161779
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162851

That done, we finally got the trusty 350 to turn over and it was trailer-time -





Here, you see me navigating past B&T's 1-tons, which he is thoughtfully allowing to rust away as a monument to the now-departed K5.
2finger



I regret to report we got "distracted" at an ice-house a mile or so up the road from Bent-n-Twisted's shop, so progress came to a halt.

beer
 

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Gotta love them Chevys!
 

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I've met Johnny Cash
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Let's get to it

Before we drug it over to B&T's shop, where it will now be in his way for many weeks to come, I had been working away in my own little lair on smaller projects and acquiring parts.

Steering Column
First, I addressed the busted column issue by buying a 1982 manual column with tilt from Greywolf and rebuilding it.



Tech and parts for the column rebuild -

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=18823

I went with a manual column because I plan to install a floor shifter.

Axles and Hydro
Also, Old Goat was kind enough to supply me with the 1-ton's out of poor Rusty (http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=15694). Specifically, a Dodge king-pin Dana 60 front, sourced from a 1991 or 1992 Dodge 1-ton truck. The axle has been fitted with hi-steer, using Koz Offroad hi-steer arms. It is welded and has 5.86:1 gears. It is currently set up for coil springs and links, but I will be going with leaf springs (52's). It has a "well-loved" 1350 yoke. The differential cover is a DIY4X Razorback, which Clint thoughtfully powder-coated "oh crap" orange. The axle still has stock 30-spline outers.



This is what the Dodge 60 looked like soon after OG completed it and before he drug it all over Hell's Half Acre.



An issue here with going back to leaf springs is the cast perch, which uses studs on the inboard side to locate the spring plates. Old Goat cut these off and welded over them to fab his lower coil bucket. That is going to make for some interesting plasma, drill and tap work later.



The tie rod is beefy enough to use as a boat anchor. I'm assuming OG stole it off a bulldozer or something.

The Dodge axle is full hydro with a Tractor Supply 2x8 ram. So, I also picked up the full-hydro setup from Old Goat, which uses a Chevrolet saginaw style power steering pump (that will bolt right up to the 350) and with the DanFoss steering valve:



The rear is a Ford Dana 60, sourced from a 1979 or so F250 and it is also welded with 5.86's and a 1350 yoke. A bonus is the disc brake conversion has already been done and OG even used the foo-foo Caddy calipers with Eldorado discs. The differential cover is also a DIY4X unit with matching "burn your retinas out" powder coating. This axle was also set up for links and coils, but that will also be reverted back to leaf springs (63's).

OldGoat already managed to snap a shaft in his light truggy, so I'm very skeptical about the 30-spline axles in the rear. Alloy replacements are available in 30 spline:

http://www.dutchmanms.com/pricesheet.html#Anchor-65138
http://www.moserengineering.com/Pages/Axles/customalloy.html
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3653
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5420 (chromo?)

Many argue they aren't worth the money for what benefit they add and the only real solution is to go with 35-spline chromoly. To do that, you will have to bore the spindles to accept the thicker, 35-spline shafts and put in a new carrier/locker/spool.

Because he is a prince among men, OG also tossed in the drive shafts, links and rod-ends. B&T has ideas for those, since he knows my hillbilly *** is insisting on going back with leaf springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Parts a go-go

Now, before everyone starts flinging poo because I want to go back with leaf springs, I offer the following in my defense:

DIY4X



6" shackles from Kert at DIY. You can get these cross-tied, but I can't imagine why you would need that - these are beefy. Since I will be doing a 52" spring swap (i.e. the stock 52" rear blazer springs will be swapped to the front) and I plan to retain the stock, trailing front spring mounts, Kert thoughtfully welded in the necessary spacers on the shackles to match the spring width correctly - note when these are mounted the spacers go to the top.

You can buy these shackles separately, or bundle them with a couple of "kits" from Kert, which is what I did.

First, the "B52" kit for the front -


http://www.diy4x.com/suspension.htm
#00226k6 (with 6" shackles) - $190.00

Tech for 52" Spring Swap:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148725

Second, the shackle flip-n-switch kit for the rear -




Both kits come with all the mounting hardware you need. To use 63's in the back, as I plan to do, you will not be able to use the stock trailing spring hanger mounting holes for your flip-n-switch. You will have to drill new ones farther back on the frame.

Tell me this isn't electric sex -


http://www.diy4x.com/suspension.htm
#00120KB (with 6" shackles) - $195.00

This stuff was so heavy, I figured out Kert's packaging is not to protect the contents, it's to protect the handler.

Bruiser supplied me with a used set of 63" Chevrolet springs in excellent shape. These suckers are looooong and you can actually flex the main leaf my hand if you stand them on end.



Finally, what to do about the spring perches, u-bolts and shock mounts.

Enter RuffStuff Specialties' Simple Axle Swap Kit -



U-bolts are included pre-bent with the proper washers and tall nuts. There are only 7 because the inboard spring perch on the Dodge axle cast spring mount uses studs.



Those spring plates are 3/8" thick - insane. They also have oblong holes for the u-bolts, so you can accommodate adjustable mounting surfaces for your spring pack centering pin.


These spring perches have 3 choices of holes for your pack centering pin so you can center your axle how you want. I screwed up here by not telling Dan my front 60 was from a Dodge, not a GM, so my perch is not tall enough to match the cast perch height in the pumpkin. My mistake.



Shock mounts, front and rear.

This kit was basically $86 for the front and $110 for the back. If you can beat that, I invite you to do it. Dan also was awesome with customer service, immediately shipping me a duplicate order when the USPS lost the first shipment. The parts are beefy and well-made. I'm assuming Dan must have an army of Oompa-Loompas chained in the shop as forced labor.
 

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Greg I just hired Thumper and he is going to be in Katy for the next four weeks. You should invite him out to the shop for a "beer". hehe He welds very good.
 

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I've met Johnny Cash
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
More metal art

Steering
I need a way to go from a Chevy column to the DanFoss steering valve so I turned to Station at POR (Performance Off-Road Systems):



Basically, what you see here is POR's Straight Spline Adapter: ¾” Female Tube to ¾” 36-spline female ($20.50) and the Orbital Valve Input Shaft: ¾” 36-spline male to ¾” 12-spline male ($55.00). Total to me was $83.50. All I need is ¾” tube to fabricate intermediate steering shaft, so you can see this will work with just about any steering column setup.

I wanted to go this route so I could retain the stock Chevy column and mount the DanFoss down on the frame roughly where the steering box is now. There are other ways to do this, including some slick firewall mounting systems. Summit can hook you up with mounting bracketry if you want to go that route.

Also on the steering topic, I laid in a steering fluid cooler to plumb in-line -



This is NAPA P/N 1-4823 Oil Cooler $59.99. It is rated for like 23k pounds as a transmission cooler.

Rust

For the body rot, I got this:



http://www.rustbullet.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=120&idproduct=416

Application Instructions:
http://www.rustbullet.com/Application.htm

This stuff is supposed to be the bomb on killing rust. I will report back with my results.

Shifter
As I mentioned above, a floor shifter will be used instead of the column, so I will go with a B&M Light Truck Megashifter -



This is part number #80680 and you can find it at:
1. Jeg’s #130-80680 $197.99
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_745755_-1_10517

2. Summit #BMM-80680 $199.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D80680&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Or, like I did, you can win it on eBay from Speed Unlimited Sales - $189.88 with free shipping.

Installation instructions (PDF):

http://www.bmracing.com/media/products/pdf/10.pdf

Here's a good thread with video on it:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169924

Carburetor
Last but not least, the Edelbrock is going to be replaced in favor of a Holley Truck Avenger 670 -



This is also widely available at:

1. Summit #HLY-0-90670 $429.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY-0-90670&N=700+115&autoview=sku

2. Jeg’s #510-0-90670 $421.99
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_71888_-1

Or, again, I got mine off eBay from Atlantic Speed Warehouse, Inc. $340.88. This included free shipping, a t-shirt, stickers and a Holley fuel pressure gauge. It was new in the box and came with a very helpful tuning and installation DVD.

Specs -
http://www.holley.com/types/Truck Avenger.asp
http://www.holley.com/0-90670.asp

Installation instructions (PDF):
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10268-4.pdf

Now, a couple of important notes here. If you are going to put on a carb, then they are going to nickel and dime you to death with linkages and such that you need to set it up right, particularly with a 200R4 or 700R4 transmission, which MUST have the TV or transmission kickdown cable installed and properly adjusted.

Linkages, etc. (prices from Summit Racing):
HLY-20-121 Transmission Brackets and Levers, Steel, Gold Iridited, Buick/Chevy/Oldsmobile/Pontiac, 700R4/200-4R, $25.99

HLY-20-38 Throttle Lever Stud, 1/4 in. Stud, Universal, $5.95

HLY-20-40 Throttle Lever Stud, 5/16 in. Stud, Automatic Transmission Kickdown, Universal, $6.95

HLY-20-95 Throttle Cable Bracket, Steel, Gold Iridited, Chevy, Big/Small Block, Holley, 4150/4160, $19.95

TV Cable Adjustment Tech:
http://www.700r4.com/faq/whattv.shtml
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php
http://www.tvmadeez.com/tvcable_instructions/stockcable.php
http://www.tvmadeez.com/pressure_test/index.php
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm
http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html

There are also a couple of companies who claim to have kits that "automatically adjust" the TV:
http://www.bowlertransmissions.com/default.aspx?mpid=34
http://www.tvmadeez.com/

Holley Tuning and tech:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174116
 

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I've met Johnny Cash
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
So what are the plans for that beast?
1 tons (Dana 60's front and rear) with full hydro, locked (welded), on about 42's. OldGoat was running these axles with 42's, but Rusty was a lot lighter at that point that this rig will be. So, Eventually, I'd like to swap in some 35-spline outers/chromoly up front and alloy in the back. I probably will not go so far as to bore the spindles and go to 35 spline in the rear because then I would also have to ditch the Lincoln locker and put in a spool or other 35-spline locker.

I want to retain the carb setup on the engine for simplicity - no computers of any kind, so Holley Truck Avenger there. I am a propane fan, but didn't want to throw the $1k you'd be looking at, all in, to make the switch.

I'd also like to convert that NP208 to a fixed yoke, which can be done a couple of ways. One way is to use the back half of a Dodge NP208. Another, perhaps simpler but more expensive route is to get a SYE kit, which have recently come available:

http://driveshaftsuperstore.com/SYE_Kits_$375.htm

Or, if I win the lottery, a Stak or Atlas.

I'd like to bed-line the interior.

Cage, with sliders and such. We've got some excellent examples out there to go on:



The ultimate idea is to have something with adequate room to bring along my sons and have the cage configured to accept the mount straps for the booster seats.

Basically, if I end up with something along these lines, I'm going to be a very happy camper:

 

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very nice x can't wait to see it done and you back on the trail.........in the drivers seat.
 

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Greg I know you have made up your mind on the floor shifter, so just let me say that you make sure you place the shifter in a spot where you can still shift it while seating all the way back in your seat. Think about climbing Dewoody and needing to back up. It is not fun when you have the rig at a funny angle and need to take off your seat belt just to put it in reverse. And if you are using stock seat belts it is even worse because most of the time they will not let you put them back on until you get the rig flat again.
Ask Eric what I'm talking about with the shifter.
 

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I agree with george. from what I have seen those shifters can be hard to get in and out of reverse with the lock out they have. i really love my art carr shifter and not much price difference.
 

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I've met Johnny Cash
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I appreciate the notes on placement of the shifter. I must have shopped poorly because the Art Carrs were hideously expensive. Oh well, I've got this one and it sounds though it will work well as long as I pay attention to the ergonomics.

I think there is a mod you can make to eliminate the reverse lockout. I don't know if I'll do that or not, since I expect one of my kids to kick it at some point.
 

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There is a thread on pirate about shifters and how to mod them. I'll see if I can find it.
 
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