Texas 4x4 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a 4" suspension lift last night...well...over the last 3 days to be honest.

Now my front sway bar won't mount up to the axle. Can I just remove it?

Also - the rear drive shaft is pulled out of the transmission about 3"...there is plenty of splines (3" or more) still in the transfer case, but this is my 1st lift kit install. Is that normal or do I have to get an extended driveshaft?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
ksims1868 said:
I installed a 4" suspension lift last night...well...over the last 3 days to be honest.

Now my front sway bar won't mount up to the axle. Can I just remove it?

Also - the rear drive shaft is pulled out of the transmission about 3"...there is plenty of splines (3" or more) still in the transfer case, but this is my 1st lift kit install. Is that normal or do I have to get an extended driveshaft?
What vehicle?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,310 Posts
Yes, You Can Leave The Sway Bar Off. You Are Gonna Have More Body
Roll At A Fast Speed At Corners.
Do You Mean Three Inches Inches Of Spline Left In The Trans & Transfer Case?
 

·
Mas Tequila
Joined
·
18,252 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh sorry - this is on an '84 K5 Blazer.

What I meant about the rear driveshaft is that there is about a 6" portion that slides into the splines on the output of the trans. There is about 3" of that (the driveshaft) sticking out of the trans where it was originally (no lift) all the way in. This puts about 3" inside the trans still. Is that normal?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,117 Posts
Just take it easy around the corners and you will be fine without the sway bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The driveshafts - yeah I think I'll have them extended. There is a little vibration and it is making a clank, clank, clank sound from the u-joint at the rear diff.

I'm definitely proud of the way it looks and it rides great...other than the driveshaft issues, but that isn't my fault. I thought with a 4" lift...longer driveshafts weren't needed, but I guess I was wrong.

It's my 1st time - it's all a learning process. Thanks for the help guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,059 Posts
driveline

It all depends on several things such as did you use shims between the axle and the springs to help correct the pinion angle? That can make a huge difference not only in how the slip part of the driveshaft works but also how vibrations come into play from the driveline geometry being wrong after the lift. I doubt your driveshaft is out of balance it is more likely an angle problem. As was suggested above taking it to a shop and having it lengthened and balanced is a good idea but you may still need to look into some shims if the lift kit did not come with them. My final thought would be to be sure you got the driveshaft slipped back together in exactly the same spot as it came apart. If not you may simply have the ujoints out alignment. They need to line up or they will be rotating in different planes and causing a vibration.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OldGoat said:
It all depends on several things such as did you use shims between the axle and the springs to help correct the pinion angle? That can make a huge difference not only in how the slip part of the driveshaft works but also how vibrations come into play from the driveline geometry being wrong after the lift. I doubt your driveshaft is out of balance it is more likely an angle problem. As was suggested above taking it to a shop and having it lengthened and balanced is a good idea but you may still need to look into some shims if the lift kit did not come with them. My final thought would be to be sure you got the driveshaft slipped back together in exactly the same spot as it came apart. If not you may simply have the ujoints out alignment. They need to line up or they will be rotating in different planes and causing a vibration.
The shims were on the rear leaf packs and were put on with the fatter side facing the rear and the skinny side towards the front.

As for the driveshaft - I didn't put it in exactly like it was removed - didn't know that was important so I just pulled it out and put it back in after it had rolled around on the floor for a few minutes. Woops.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,117 Posts
Does the driveshaft yoke slip in and out of the t-case? If so, it doesnt matter how you took it out. It does matter if the slip yoke is on the driveshaft; the ujoints must be in the same position or they will be out of "phase" and vibrate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
4x4Freak said:
Does the driveshaft yoke slip in and out of the t-case? If so, it doesnt matter how you took it out. It does matter if the slip yoke is on the driveshaft; the ujoints must be in the same position or they will be out of "phase" and vibrate.
That sounds like what is going on. The driveshaft yoke does slip in and out of the T-case as you described. You just have to unbolt the u-joint from the differential and slip the driveshaft out of the t-case. I didn't mark where it was removed from, so I'm sure I didn't put it back in at the same exact spot. I have a friend that has built several of these K5 4x4 rigs that says I should also put 1" spacers on my t-case to drop it down some and ease that driveshaft angle. He feels that I don't need to extend the driveshaft, but need to replace the u-joint and lower the t-case. Does that sound logical? It makes sense to me, but I don't know crap about these things. That's why I won't drive it until I have a knowledgable person come inspect it for me...I just don't want to mess anything up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,117 Posts
It doesnt matter which way the driveshaft came out, the yokes cant come out of allignment unless you cut/break the driveshaft. You shouldnt need the spacers on the t-case for a 4" lift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
272 Posts
if this is primarily a street truck, i'd say use the spacers. They are already there you only need to move them from over the frame to between the frame and the crossmember. when you shim the axle, it changes the geometry at the pinion and you should try to counter that at the t-case output in the opposite direction. The operating angles of the 2 u-joints need to be equal and opposite so as to cancel out any vibrations. So as the pinion comes up, the t-case output should come down. Ideally you want these moves to be equal and you could check with a magnetic angle finder, but that really should have been done on the pinion before removing the old springs.

spacing the t-case down may also save you the cost of extending the driveshaft (over $100 by the time you add in balance and if u-joints are replaced).

As 4x4Freak stated, the yokes on your driveshaft can not be out of phase, so don't worry about that one.

I removed my sway bar (also an 84 blazer) when I installed my first lift (4 inch pro comp) and never regretted it. it was not a daily driver, but it was driven on the street frequently, and for some fairly long trips to go wheeling. make sure you've got good shocks and you'll be fine, but do be cautious going into turns as you will have more body roll than you used to. finally, if you decide the body roll is too much for you, check out the ORD disconnects (http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/swaybarkit.htm) which will allow you to run the sway bar with your lift and also quickly remove it from the picture when you are ready to head offroad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
379 Posts
yea my buddy on his blazer had to drop the t-case a inch with a 4 inch lift, no vibrations in his drive shaft, so do that and u should be fine, his shaft is about about the same with the slip as your's...we go 4 wheeling and never once has the shaft slip out so u should be ok.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
I had a 6 inch lift with the original shaft I had no issues. When I had the U joints replaced, they guy could tell I had a 6 inch because of the wear on the t case side of the shaft. He gave me a longer shaft, which put more meat on the spline...which I guess is always a good thing. I had wheeled the thing for almost a year with no issues/vibration. I didn't think anythign of it till I took it in to get reworked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,552 Posts
I'm in League City and have an 85 K5 with 10" lift. You should drop your t-case and the drive shaft will be fine. I have an extra 1 for 4" lift if you want a spare. Needs u-joints. Also I removed my sway bar which had 1" spacers to compensate for the distance from sway bar to frame if you need them. I now have cross over steering and have a few extra parts. I'm across from the highschool I'm sure not far from you if you have questions or problems. Just give me a call 832) 277-8944
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top